Category Archives: Mapungubwe National Park

Our 2022 in pictures

Join us for a look back at the wonderfully wild South African destinations we visited during 2022. May 2023 be a blessed year for you and your family, memorable for all the best reasons.

Satara Bungalow B50, December 2021 – January 2022

First sunrise of 2022

Tlopi Tent #1 (Plover), Marakele National Park, February 2022

Tlopi Tented Camp, Marakele National Park, seen from the Mbidi Loop

Beautiful scenery around Lake Mankwe in the Pilanesberg National Park (20 February 2022)

Chalet 12 in Mantuma Camp, uMkhuze Game Reserve, Isimangaliso Wetland Park, March 2022

uMkhuze scenery

Log Cabin 25, Cape Vidal, iSimangaliso Wetland Park, March 2022

Sunset over Lake St. Lucia

Hilltop Chalet 47, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, March 2022

View from Hilltop Chalet 47, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, March 2022

Chalet 16, Mpila, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, March 2022

White Umfolozi River

Joubert interacting with an elephant at African Hills Safari Lodge, June 2022

Cottage #18 in Leokwe Rest Camp, Mapungubwe National Park, June 2022

Iconic Mapungubwe: baobabs, elephants and rocky outcrops

Tent #10, “Loerie”, at Tlopi Tented Camp in Marakele National Park (June-July 2022)

Sunset at Tlopi

Sunrise over Marais Dam in Rietvlei Nature Reserve

Sandy Place unit 21, St. Lucia Town, October-November 2022

National Women’s Memorial in Bloemfontein

Looking out over Lake Saint Lucia and the forested dunes on Indian Ocean coast

Chalet #17 in Karoo National Park, December 2022

A normally dry Karoo streambed transformed into a flowing river

Van Breda Cottage in the West Coast National Park, December 2022

Salt marsh in the West Coast National Park, dominated by Perennial Glasswort

Tietiesbaai

West Coast Fossil Park

Table Mountain towering over Table Bay

Rhodes Memorial

Eland Cottage, Cape of Good Hope, Table Mountain National Park, December 2022

Hout Bay harbour

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, 23 December 2022

Aloe Canyons Guest Farm, December 2022

Koppie Alleen Beach in De Hoop Nature Reserve

Waskraalvlei in the Nuwejaars Wetlands Special Management Area

Protea Glamping, Kleine Windpompie Guest Farm, Klein Karoo, December 2022

View from our tented unit at Kleine Windpompie.

Mapungubwe National Park

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The treasure we know today as the Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site has a troubled recent history. In 1918 already the corner of our country where the borders of South Africa, Botswana (then the British protectorate of Bechuanaland) and Zimbabwe (then still the British colony of South Rhodesia) met was set aside as a botanical reserve due to the area’s unique plant communities. It soon became known as the Dongola Botanical Reserve. In March 1947, with its size much reduced to placate the local farming community, the South African government proclaimed the Dongola Game Reserve at the confluence of the Shashe and Limpopo Rivers. A change in government the following year however resulted in the fledgling conservation area being deproclaimed in its entirety almost immediately. A tiny portion of it, surrounding the Mapungubwe Hill, became a provincial nature reserve, Vhembe, in 1967. Then, in 1995, with South Africa now a multiracial democracy and Botswana and Zimbabwe independent countries in their own right, and after many years of a strict military presence on the border, this arid corner of our country was once again afforded the highest level of protection as the Vhembe-Dongola National Park. In September 2004, the park was opened to visitors and renamed the Mapungubwe National Park, in recognition of the fact that this area and its rich cultural heritage centred on Mapungubwe Hill was inscribed as a World Heritage Site the year before.

Misty morning along the Limpopo River

Interesting rock formation in Mapungubwe

Mapungubwe scenery

High hills towering over fertile plains

A herd of wildebeest in the foreground appears tiny in Mapungubwe’s vastness

Mapungubwe’s human history dates back to hundreds of years before the colonial period however and is extremely fascinating. Visits to the interpretive centre near the gate and the archeological site on Mapunguwe Hill are not to be missed. Read more about it here.

Mapungubwe’s interpretative centre has a model of the famous golden rhino

Mapungubwe Hill seen from the northwest

Today, Mapungubwe covers 28,000 hectares and consists of two distinct parts, with private farming land isolating the two sections. Both sections adjoin the Limpopo River; the eastern portion is rugged and hilly – with beautiful baobab trees – while the western section is flat and dominated by a very different community of plants. Mapungubwe’s an arid place, with average annual rainfall below 400mm and summer temperatures that easily soar above 40°C.

Impala Lily (photo by Joubert)

Bushveld Candelabra Euphorbias

Eland silhouette in Mapungubwe National Park

Mapungubwe Baobabs

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Iconic Mapungubwe: baobabs, elephants and rocky outcrops

Poacher’s Corner is an especially beautiful stretch of road through the riverine forest on the southern bank of the Limpopo.

Tree-lined banks of the Limpopo River at Poacher’s Corner

A rainy day at Poacher’s Corner

Cliffs on the Zimbabwe side of the border loom over the Limpopo River

Poacher’s Corner, on the Limpopo River

Near Poacher’s Corner is Zebra Pan, itself a delightful place to park your vehicle and gawk at the constant stream of wildlife

Zebra Pan near Poacher’s Corner

The Maloutswa Pan and Hide in the west of the Park is yet another great spot to spend a few peaceful hours waiting for the birds and animals to come quench their thirst within easy reach of your lens.

The Hide at Maloutswa Pan

Maloutswa Pan

Wildebeest and impala nervously approaching Maloutswa Pan

Set atop a hill several lookout decks have been constructed from which to view the confluence of the Shashe and Limpopo Rivers where the borders of the three countries meet. Near the car park there are also a few picnic tables and braai (barbeque) stands which are very popular with visitors to Mapungubwe.

Meeting place for three countries: The confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers

Limpopo River at sunrise

A deck with a view over the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers

The Picnic Area at the Confluence Viewpoint

The Treetop Walk on the bank of the Limpopo River is another place visitors to Mapungubwe National Park should not miss.

Elephants at the Treetop Walk

Mapungubwe’s Treetop Walk on the bank of the Limpopo River

Mapunbuwe is home to a rich variety of wildlife, with records indicating a tally of 34 fish species, as many as 36 kinds of frogs, up to 75 species of reptiles, 460+ species of birds and 94 species of mammals, including the famed “Big 5“.

Kudus, wildebeest and zebras mingling in Mapungubwe National Park

Nile Monitor (photo by Joubert)

Southern African Tree Squirrel

Plains Zebras in Mapungubwe National Park (photo by Joubert)

Large-spotted Genet (photo by Joubert)

Fully grown elephant bull (photo by Joubert)

Mating pair of Lions

Pel’s Fishing Owl (photo by Joubert)

Lilac-breasted Roller (photo by Joubert)

Meves’s Starling

Yellow-spotted and Cape Rock Hyrax sharing the sun in Mapungubwe

Mocking Cliff Chat

Gemsbok

Crested Barbet (photo by Joubert)

Lappet-faced Vulture (photo by Joubert)

White-fronted Bee-eater (photo by Joubert)

Steenbok ewe

Blue Wildebeest in Mapungubwe National Park

Warthog in Mapungubwe National Park

Kudu Bull

Rough-scaled Plated Lizard (photo by Joubert)

Newly born Giraffe calf with its mother

Eland bull in Mapungubwe National Park

Banded Mongoose

Baboons in Mapungubwe National Park (photo by Joubert)

Black Crake

Kudu Bull

Impala (photo by Joubert)

The South African National Parks provides an assortment of self-catering accommodation options in Mapunguwe National Park, ranging from camping sites at Mazhou in the riverine forest along the Limpopo River to the top-of-the-range Tshugulu Lodge. Remember that DeWetsWild can assist you with your reservations for a visit to Mapungubwe. Guided drives and walks, including visits to the Mapungubwe archeological site, can be booked at reception, while there are several gravel roads available for exploration in your own vehicle (even more if you have a 4×4). Simple meals and firewood is available from the interpretive centre, but the nearest available fuel, and other services, to the Park is in the towns of Alldays or Musina, both about 70km from the gate.

Cottage #18 in Leokwe Rest Camp, Mapungubwe National Park, June 2022

View from Cottage #18 in Leokwe Rest Camp

Leokwe’s swimming pool

Leokwe Rest Camp

Limpopo Forest Tented Camp

Mazhou Camping Area

Vhembe Wilderness Camp

Tshugulu Lodge

Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site lies right at South Africa’s northernmost corner, roughly 470km north of our capital Pretoria.

Location of Mapungubwe National Park (Google Maps)

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Yellow-spotted Rock Dassie

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A fact that is not well-known, even among South Africans, is that our country is home to two different kinds of Dassie, or Hyrax, that live mainly in rocky terrain. We’ve already featured the species most people are acquainted with, the Rock Dassie (Procavia capensis), which is widely distributed throughout all our provinces. By contrast, in this country the Yellow-spotted Rock Dassie occurs only in our northernmost province, Limpopo, and often in mixed communities of both species numbering from a few to more than a hundred. The rugged Mapungubwe National Park is an excellent place to see them.

Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax (photo by Joubert)

Yellow-spotted Rock Dassie, or Hyrax (photo by Joubert)

Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax

Yellow-spotted Rock Hyraxes

Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax (photo by Joubert)

Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax

Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax (photo by Joubert)

A yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax hiding in a crevice secured by the roots of a Large-leaved Rock Fig

Heterohyrax brucei

Like their better known relatives, Yellow-spotted Rock Dassies are herbivores that feed on a wide variety of plant material, with leaves forming the bulk of their diet. They are fairly independent of drinking water. Yellow-spotted Rock Dassies are also diurnal and love basking in the sun. They’re excellent at climbing around in trees, which they do mostly for feeding as they’d usually take cover among the rocks in case of danger. One of the group is always on sentry duty while the rest feed.

The basic social unit of a colony of Yellow-spotted Rock Dassies consist of a dominant, territorial male with a harem of adult females and their young. They breed throughout the year, females usually giving birth to 2 babies. Adult Yellow-spotted Rock Dassies weigh between 1.5kg and 3.5kg and measure between 30cm and 50cm in length. They seldom live to older than 11 years in the wild, and usually much shorter.

With its distribution extending northwards well beyond Limpopo Province all the way to Sudan, the IUCN considers the Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax to be of least concern.

Yellow-spotted (left) and Rock Dassie (right) sharing the sun in Mapungubwe

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Mapungubwe Birding

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Including the Pel’s Fishing Owl and the Verreaux’s Eagles at their nest, we managed to identify exactly 100 bird species during our 4 night visit to the Mapungubwe National Park in June 2022. With over 460 species recorded in the Park, many of which are summer visitors, we’ll just have to return again to build on our list. These are some that played along for a photo or two during our latest visit to Mapungubwe.

African Hawk Eagle

Ashy Flycatcher

Bearded Woodpecker

Black-faced Waxbill

Black Crake

Dark-capped Bulbul

Black-winged Stilt (photo by Joubert)

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

Red-billed Buffalo Weaver (photo by Joubert)

Cape Vulture (photo by Joubert)

Crested Barbet (photo by Joubert)

Crowned Lapwing (photo by Joubert)

Egyptian Goose gosling (photo by Joubert)

Familiar Chat

Golden-breasted Bunting

Grey Go-away-bird

Grey Heron

Helmeted Guineafowl (photo by Joubert)

Hamerkop (photo by Joubert)

African Harrier Hawk (photo by Joubert)

White-browed Robin-Chat

Kori Bustard

Lappet-faced Vulture (photo by Joubert)

Lilac-breasted Roller (photo by Joubert)

Little Egret

Little Grebe

Little Sparrowhawk (photo by Joubert)

Marabou

Meves’s Starling

Mocking Cliff Chat

Pale Chanting Goshawk (photo by Joubert)

Purple Roller

Green-winged Pytilia

Red-billed Firefinch

Red-billed Quelea

Red-billed Teal family

Sabota Lark

Red-eyed Dove (photo by Joubert)

Scaly-feathered Finch

Spectacled Weaver

Swainson’s Spurfowl

Three-banded Plover

White-backed Vulture (photo by Joubert)

White-browed Sparrow-Weaver

White-fronted Bee-eater (photo by Joubert)

Yellow-fronted Canary

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Verreaux’s Eagle Nest in Mapungubwe

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On a sheer rock face in the Mapungubwe National Park, we found a pair of Verreaux’s Eagles attending to their chick at their nest. So large was the nest that we seldom got even a glimpse of the fluffy white chick, but it was wonderful nevertheless to see the majestic adults coming and going.

This cliff in the Mapungubwe National Park is home to a family of Verreaux’s Eagles

Adult Verreaux’s Eagle keeping an eye on its nest and chick from a distance

Verreaux’s Eagles at their nest against a cliff in Mapungubwe National Park

Adult Verreaux’s Eagle departing from the nest

Verreaux’s EaAdult Verreaux’s Eagle departing from the nestgle

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Mapungubwe’s Treetop Walk

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One of the real treats of a visit to Mapungubwe National Park is the Treetop Walk through the riverine forest on the South African bank of the Limpopo River (Botswana is on the opposite side). Sadly the length of the elevated boardwalk was trimmed significantly by recent floods, but it still offers a wonderful glimpse into life in the tree canopy and an amazing opportunity to watch elephants from above if you are lucky to be on the treetop walk when a herd moves through on their way to the water.

Mapungubwe’s Treetop Walk on the bank of the Limpopo River

Lazy Limpopo River in the early morning

Lazy Limpopo River in the afternoon

Elephants at the Treetop Walk (photo by Joubert)

Elephants at the Treetop Walk

Limpopo Ramble 2022: The Kingdom of Mapungubwe

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Mapungubwe Hill and the valleys around it, today part of the Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site, was the seat of a powerful African Kingdom that ruled between 1,100 and 700 years ago. Mapungubwe Hill is by far South Africa’s most important iron age archeological site and can be visited on guided tours.

Mapungubwe Hill in its surrounding landscape

Mapungubwe Hill seen from the northwest

Side-on view of Mapungubwe Hill, seen from the south

The Interpretive Centre at Mapungubwe, itself an award-winning architectural marvel, provides a fascinating glimpse into the daily lives of the people who lived in the Kingdom of Mapungubwe. Royalty ruled from atop the hill, with their subjects living below. The Kingdom’s riches were based on gold and ivory, traded with cultures from as far afield as Persia and China through a trade route leading through the east coast of Africa. Mapungubwe means “Place where rock turns into liquid” in reference to the smelting of gold practiced by the country’s citizens.

Mapungubwe Interpretive Centre

Clay figurines unearthed at Mapungubwe

An ancient African board game

Mapungubwe’s interpretative centre has a model of the famous golden rhino

A golden scepter unearthed at Mapungubwe

Mapungubwe’s interpretative centre has a model of the famous golden rhino

Golden jewellery unearthed at Mapungubwe

The rich archeological treasures of Mapungubwe were re-discovered in 1933. Having been recognised formally as a National Monument in 1984, the Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape was inscribed as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003.

Limpopo Ramble 2022: The Land of the Giants

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In the Mapungubwe National Park, three aspects are truly iconic of this landscape: Elephants, baobabs, and rocky hills and cliffs. It’s as if the entire atmosphere of the Park hinges on these key natural attributes.

Mapungubwe, situated as it is at the place where the borders of South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe meet, has a high population of elephants and especially so when the dry season concentrate the behemoths along the banks of the Limpopo River. From families of cows and tiny calves to enormous bulls can all be expected along any of the roads traversing the Park, and sometimes waiting for these charismatic animals to clear the way can be a very entertaining delay. At other times, the dense mopane veld may lead to you inadvertently finding yourself in the personal space of one of the giants and they might react with more than a little agitation!

Angry elephant (photo by Joubert)

Elephant cow with her herd (photo by Joubert)

Elephant cow and calf crossing the road (photo by Joubert)

Elephant cow

Young elephant bulls testing their mettle

Adult elephant bull

Big elephant bull reaching for tasty leaves

Elephant youngster (photo by Joubert)

Fully grown elephant bull (photo by Joubert)

Most impressive elephant bull foraging along the Limpopo (photo by Joubert)

Young elephant bull scaling a rocky outcrop

Elephant cow

Fully grown elephant bull (photo by Joubert)

The Elephants even move through Mapungubwe’s unfenced main camp Leokwe, as we experienced one evening upon arriving at out cottage.

Elephants in Leokwe (photo by Joubert)

Baobabs are the undisputable rulers of Mapungubwe’s plant kingdom. With this part of the world now firmly in Winter’s grip, the trees are mostly leafless, lending more credence to the myth that the Creator tossed them to earth, planting them upside down. Elephants have a paticular liking for the pulpy wood of the baobab, and many of Mapungubwe’s trees show damage as a result, leading to the Park authorities protecting some prime specimens by using wire as wrapping around their trunks (those of the trees, not those of the elephants 😉 )

Baobab showing elephant damage

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Beautiful Baobab

Look carefully to notice the wire wrapped around this Baobab’s trunk to prevent further elephant damage

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Baobab atop one of Mapungubwe’s hills

An enormous Baobab towering above the plains

One of Mapungubwe’s roads hugging a Baobab

Young Baobab

Mapungubwe Baobabs

An enormous Baobab towering above the mopane

Mapungubwe Baobab

Mapungubwe Baobabs

An enormous Baobab towering above the plains

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Baobabs on a hillside with dark clouds looming

A huge Baobab growing in the tiniest of spots among the rocks

A most impressive Baobab!

On the largest scale of all, it is the rocky, hilly landscapes that really forms the basis of Mapungubwe’s ancient atmosphere. The hills are composed mainly of dolerite – the remains of molten rock pushed up from deep inside the earth through sandstone that has long since weathered away to leave only the harder volcanic geology visible.

Mapungubwe Landscape

Mapungubwe sunset

An elephant almost disappears in Mapungubwe’s landscape (photo by Joubert)

The road descending to the Kongoni plains

Mapungubwe’s own leaning tower

Side-on view of Mapungubwe Hill, seen from the south

Mapungubwe Hill seen from the northwest

Cliffs on the Zimbabwe side of the border loom over the Limpopo River

A rainy winter’s day in Mapungubwe

Interesting rock formation in Mapungubwe

Another of Mapungubwe’s hills that ,looks almost like a monument!

High hills towering over fertile plains

Mapungubwe Hill in its surrounding landscape

A watering hole at the base of a cliff

A herd of wildebeest in the foreground appears tiny in Mapungubwe’s vastness

Natural monuments in Mapungubwe

Schroda Dam is built among the hills

Sunrise over the hills east of Leokwe

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Hungry Honeymooners

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During our recent visit to Mapungubwe National Park we left the environs of Leokwe Camp early one morning to go and explore the western reaches of the Park around the Maloutswa Pan, near the Limpopo Forest Tented Camp and Mazhou Camping Site. We were already close to our destination when we came across a mating pair of lions enjoying the early morning sun.

Mating pair of Lions

The female especially was interested in (we thought) a herd of impala grazing nearby, and got up to sneak out of view followed by the male. Anticipating an impending attack on the impalas, we positioned our vehicle for a clear view of the antelope grazing entirely unaware of the danger lurking nearby.

What we didn’t see, but the lions did, was a family of warthogs. When next we saw the lions they were chasing the warthogs at speed across the road!

Lioness chasing after warthogs (photo by Joubert)

Lion chasing after warthogs (photo by Joubert)

Unfortunately, or fortunately depending on which team you support!, the warthogs were too quick for the lions, and the honeymoon pair had to continue searching for their next breakfast opportunity.

Lions regrouping after their failed hunt

Lioness

Lioness (photo by Joubert)

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Pel’s Fishing Owl

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Now, searching for the Pel’s Fishing Owl can make you feel like Indiana Jones searching for some long lost artefact only to be thwarted at every turn. We have spent many, many hours over the years slowly driving through prime habitat in search of this elusive bird and have always come off second best.

Upon arrival at Mapungubwe National Park on the 25th of June, and while completing the usual formalities at the entrance gate, I enquired about whether there had been any recent sightings of Fishing Owls in the Park and whether we might book a special guided drive to search for them in case there was. Without hesitation the kind receptionist picked up the phone, and minutes later we were being escorted down to the banks of the Limpopo River by Leonard Luula, one of the excellent guides at Mapungubwe.

Leonard’s expert eye quickly picked out the bird that has eluded us for so long sitting in a tall riparian tree. We were ecstatic.

Pel’s Fishing Owl

Pel’s Fishing Owl (photo by Joubert)

We went back to the same area early the following day and were very grateful to see the owl once again before it shuffled out of view along its perch to behind the screen of leaves.

Pel’s Fishing Owl (photo by Joubert)

Scotopelia peli

As its name suggests, the Pel’s Fishing Owl subsists on a diet of fish (and the occasional frog, crab and even baby crocodile!) which it catches at night by swooping down over the water to snatch its prey from it. They live in riverine forests on the banks of large rivers and swamps.

Pel’s Fishing Owl usually nests in deep cavities or old hamerkop nests in tall trees near the water’s edge, mainly during the months of summer and autumn. The female incubates the clutch of two eggs for around 5 weeks while being provided food by the male. Both eggs usually hatch, but only one chick survives to fledging as the parents feed mainly the stronger chick and neglect the weaker, which dies of starvation within a few days of hatching. The chick remains in the nest for almost 10 weeks and is dependent on its parents for up to 9 months months after fledging. Due to it taking so long to raise a chick, pairs generally breed only every second year.

Pel’s Fishing Owl is the second largest owl on the African continent (after Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl). Adults have a wingspan of around 1.5m, sit about 60cm tall, and weigh approximately 2kg. Their call can be heard up to 3km away.

While overall Pel’s Fishing Owl is considered to be of least concern, it is listed as endangered in South Africa, with a population estimated at only between 70 and 100 mature individuals. Here, these enigmatic birds are found in the north of Kwazulu-Natal, along large Lowveld rivers – notably the Olifants and Luvuvhu – and along the course of the Limpopo on the border with Zimbabwe and Botswana. Thankfully, most of this restricted range is covered by formal protected areas, such as the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, Kruger National Park and of course Mapungubwe National Park. They are very sensitive to human disturbance and threatened by habitat loss. Beyond our borders, Pel’s Fishing Owls are found widely, if somewhat patchily, over much of sub-Saharan Africa.