Tag Archives: Lion

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Royal Welcome at Marakele

Scarcely half-an-hour after arriving at Marakele National Park on the 29th of June, while making our way between reception and our allocated tent at Tlopi Tented Camp, we were met by this beautiful male lion, out patrolling and marking his territory. It really is nice to have your arrival acknowledged by the local royalty, don’t you think?

Beautiful Lion in Marakele National Park (photo by Joubert)

Beautiful Lion in Marakele National Park

Beautiful Lion in Marakele National Park (photo by Joubert)

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Hungry Honeymooners

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During our recent visit to Mapungubwe National Park we left the environs of Leokwe Camp early one morning to go and explore the western reaches of the Park around the Maloutswa Pan, near the Limpopo Forest Tented Camp and Mazhou Camping Site. We were already close to our destination when we came across a mating pair of lions enjoying the early morning sun.

Mating pair of Lions

The female especially was interested in (we thought) a herd of impala grazing nearby, and got up to sneak out of view followed by the male. Anticipating an impending attack on the impalas, we positioned our vehicle for a clear view of the antelope grazing entirely unaware of the danger lurking nearby.

What we didn’t see, but the lions did, was a family of warthogs. When next we saw the lions they were chasing the warthogs at speed across the road!

Lioness chasing after warthogs (photo by Joubert)

Lion chasing after warthogs (photo by Joubert)

Unfortunately, or fortunately depending on which team you support!, the warthogs were too quick for the lions, and the honeymoon pair had to continue searching for their next breakfast opportunity.

Lions regrouping after their failed hunt

Lioness

Lioness (photo by Joubert)

Autumn Adventure – Boys will be boys, even if they’re lions

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Early into the third morning of our latest visit to the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, we happened upon a pride of lions on the bank of the Hluhluwe River at a spot called Sitezi. Most members of the pride quickly walked past, but at the rear of the family were three teenage males with boundless energy! They had great fun, and so were we watching them with cameras clicking away.

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Autumn Adventure: Flirtatious Lion

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I can’t be sure of course, but I think this young lion we saw in March while visiting the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park was only this charming because he wanted us to hang around for breakfast…

Young male lion next to the road near the White Imfolozi River

What is he thinking about? (photo by Joubert)

Licking his lips now…

Young male lion, giving us the eye

“How you doin’?”

Satara Summer 2021 – Big Cat Royalty: Lions!

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The plains around Satara in the Kruger National Park is renowned as one of the best places in South Africa to see the most regal of cats, the Lion. It therefore wasn’t surprising that our visit in December 2021 yielded no less than twenty encounters with the Kings (and Queens) of the Jungle.

Finding fresh tracks like these in the early morning is really exciting, even if you don’t find the owners on the road.

Majestic they may be, but Lions are notoriously lazy too. Out in the midday heat they’re usually far more likely to be lying flat on their sides and deep in dreamland than moving around or hunting. Luckily we only had a few sightings like that, otherwise this post would not have been very exciting.

One of a group of four young males we found hiding near the Rockvale waterhole on the S36

One of a group of four young males we found hiding near the Rockvale waterhole on the S36 (photo by Joubert)

Lazy lioness at Shibotwana waterhole on the S100

A mating pair of lions causing a traffic jam at Nsemani Dam west of Satara

One of two big male lions that were snoozing next to the Gudzani stream east of Satara

A group of four lioness snoozing away the mid-day hours near Nwanetsi.

Being one of the first cars out of Satara when the gates open in the morning is often rewarded with wonderful lion sightings right on the road. Like this one, just 100 meters – I kid you not! – from Satara’s gate. As we left camp in the pouring rain two magnificent males came walking along the road from the left, straight towards us. Pretty soon the two had a large convoy following them as more cars departed from camp, so we opted to return to our campsite.

Big male lion at Satara’s gate (photo by Joubert)

Big male lions in the road at Satara’s gate

Big male lion in the road at Satara’s gate

Shortly afterwards, a roaring close-by alerted us to the presence of another lion next to the fence, and Joubert got this shot of a third male as it walked past the open gate to the camp. Perhaps I should be more worried about the boy’s fearlessness when it comes to our wild places and the creatures that live there. Turns out these three enormous lions are the brothers of Satara’s famous white lion and we’d see them a few more times before our time at Satara was at an end.

Joubert got this shot of a third male walking past Satara’s gate a while later

On Christmas morning we saw a few giraffe and zebra acting very nervous on the H6. While they were out of view at that time, we could deduce from the herbivores’ behaviour more or less where the predators lay hidden, and sure enough our wait paid off soon enough when the lions gave away their presence, ending any chance they had at a successful hunt. These young lions were part of a bigger pride of which we encountered various members on several occasions along the H6 near its junction with the H1-3 during our stay at Satara in December of 2021.

Hunting lions caught in the act

On the 27th of December we were the first car that morning to turn onto the H6 main road towards Nwanetsi, and less than a kilometer further along came across these three “teenage” lions right on the road.

Young lions claiming the road between Satara and Nwanetsi

Young lions claiming the road between Satara and Nwanetsi (photo by Joubert)

On New Year’s Day we had another encounter with some of the members of this pride, when we again came across them lounging on the H6 road to Nwanetsi.

Dangerous zebra crossing! Luckily the lions were more curious than hungry.

Young Lions on the H6 on the 1st of January 2022

Young Lions on the H6 on the 1st of January 2022 (photo by Joubert)

Young Lions on the H6 on the 1st of January 2022

Young Lioness winking at Joubert (photo by Joubert)

Young Lions on the H6 on the 1st of January 2022

Young Lions on the H6 on the 1st of January 2022 (photo by Joubert)

As we left Satara on the 2nd of January 2022 to head home, this Lioness walked along with us a bit of the way. We were most grateful for the royal sendoff.

Lioness just outside Satara on the 2nd of January 2022

Lioness just outside Satara on the 2nd of January 2022 (photo by Joubert)

Later on the same day, just before Tshokwane, a young lion stepped into the road ahead, though he was off into the long grass again after just a brief moment.

Young Lion near Tshokwane (photo by Joubert)

Young Lion disappearing in the long grass

In the early morning of the 17th of December, as we were heading along the main road northwards, we encountered these two lovely males with their stylishly maintained (“mane”-tained?) manes heading towards the Mtomeni Spruit. Just look at how beautifully their manes have been blow-dried – not a hair out of place!

Big male lions (photo by Joubert)

Big male lions on the H1-4 north of Satara

Big male lion (photo by Joubert)

Big male lion, smiling for the camera (photo by Joubert)

It was at around 6am on the morning of the 18th of December, with the sun just nicely risen over the horizon, that we came across this small group of lions at the junction of the H7 and S106 on the way to Orpen. Two magnificent males attending to a single female, in all likelihood a trio in the throes of mating judging by the fresh scars both males were carrying on their faces and bodies. The female was the first to rise and lead the males, and all of us humans in our metal cocoons, on a walk along the H7 for about three kilometers before she was distracted by a herd of impalas and stalked off into the thickets. In the end we spent about three quarters of an hour in their company.

Two magnificent Lions and their mate at the junction of the S106 and H7 on the 18th of December 2021

Alert Lioness

Two magnificent Lions and their mate at the junction of the S106 and H7 on the 18th of December 2021

Black-backed Jackal keeping a nervous eye on all the Lions around him

The Lioness deciding it is time to go

Lioness leading the procession along the S106

Magnificent male Lion (photo by Joubert)

Magnificent male Lion

Magnificent male Lion (photo by Joubert)

One of the big male Lions crossing the S106 as he follows the female towards the H7

Black-backed Jackal having a staring contest with a lion

Magnificent male Lion

Magnificent male Lion (photo by Joubert)

One of the big male Lions following the female along the H7

Mighty lion

One of the big male Lions following the female along the H7 (photo by Joubert)

Two big male Lions following the female along the H7

One of the big male Lions following the female along the H7

One of the big male Lions following the female along the H7 (photo by Joubert)

Lion lying next to the H7 and his throng of adoring admirers

The Lioness’ interest is piqued by a herd of impalas

Just before 4pm on the 21st of December, with the weather still stiflingly hot as we left Nwanetsi Picnic Site and turned onto the S41 gravel road, we came across two lionesses lying next to the road. They didn’t appreciate our attentions though and immediately got up and walked off. Someone should tell them that this is not the way to treat their adoring fans!

Lionesses on the S41 near Nwanetsi

Lionesses on the S41 near Nwanetsi (photo by Joubert)

Lionesses on the S41 near Nwanetsi

Lionesses on the S41 near Nwanetsi (photo by Joubert)

Lionesses on the S41 near Nwanetsi

On the 22nd of December we explored the roads around the Tshokwane Picnic Site. We found a pride of lions at a small waterhole on the S37 gravel drive very near to its junction with the main H1-3 road. They stayed in the general vicinity all day and we could return to them twice more before heading back to Satara.

Lions on the S37 near Tshokwane (photo by Joubert)

Lions on the S37 near Tshokwane

Lions on the S37 near Tshokwane (photo by Joubert)

Lions on the S37 near Tshokwane

Lions on the S37 near Tshokwane (photo by Joubert)

Lions on the S37 near Tshokwane

On the 19th of December, while we were having breakfast at Nwanetsi, I realised that I left my insulin pens at Satara. This meant an adjustment to our planned route for the day in that we’d have to return to camp first. The unexpected detour turned out to be a real blessing in disguise though when we happened upon a pride of 8 lionesses about 5km from the H6’s junction with the H1-3.

Big pride of lionesses on the H6, 19 December 2021

Big pride of lionesses on the H6, 19 December 2021 (photo by Joubert)

Big pride of lionesses on the H6, 19 December 2021

Big pride of lionesses on the H6, 19 December 2021 (photo by Joubert)

The unfortunate forgetting of my insulin turned out to be even more of a boon when we arrived at a traffic jam where the main H1-3 road crosses the Nwanetsi River. The reason for the traffic jam was Satara’s White Lion and his brothers! While all we saw of the star of the show first time around was him fast asleep, he did co-operate a bit better when we returned to the scene later in the day.

Satara’s famous white lion and one of his brothers

Satara’s famous white lion (photo by Joubert)

One of the coalition lying in the road (photo by Joubert)

Satara’s famous white lion and one of his brothers (photo by Joubert)

Satara’s famous white lion (photo by Joubert)

When we left Satara at gate opening time (04:30) on the first morning of 2022, the air was filled with the nearby roaring of lions. We didn’t have to travel far before we saw two mighty Lions strolling towards us along the road, followed by a couple of cars. Yet again they were near the Nwanetsi Bridge and we immediately recognised that they were two of the four-brother coalition that includes the White Lion, affectionately known as “Casper” by many regular Kruger visitors. Of course we were wondering where “Casper” is, so we decided to join the cavalcade following his two brothers and see whether they’d lead us to him. Soon though both males took a game trail into the bush and disappeared from view in the long grass. Now we are driving up and down the one kilometre stretch between the Nwanetsi Bridge and the S100 turnoff when suddenly, out of the bush in the pitch dark, appears a third male – the third “normal” coloured Lion. Again we drive the short stretch beside him until he also heads of along the same trail the other males took earlier. The question now is whether the White male is ahead of or behind his brothers…

One of the current ruling Lion coalition around Satara

One of the current ruling Lion coalition around Satara (photo by Joubert)

One of the current ruling Lion coalition around Satara

Again we slowly patrol up and down the same stretch of the road, hoping that the White Lion will also pop out of the bush like the ghost he’s named after. After 15 minutes he’s still not appeared and we start believing that he must have been in front of his brothers, and might actually already be on the road to Orpen in which direction we last saw his brothers headed. So we go around the corner, drive 2 or 3 km along the H7 road, but come out empty-handed again, and turn around to go scour the area around the Nwanetsi Bridge again. You would not believe the excitement in our car when we come around the turn to see the White Lion heading straight toward us, entourage in tow, exactly half-an-hour after we last had eyes on his brothers. Since we saw Satara’s White Lion two years ago, he has grown into a very impressive specimen. The oldest and largest of only three known wild White Lions in the world – all of them living in the Kruger National Park – and here he is walking just inches away from our vehicle. We reverse to stay alongside him as he strides down the road, and then let him pass when vehicles start arriving behind us. We couldn’t have asked for a better start to 2022…

Satara’s White Lion walking up to us, entourage in tow

Satara’s white lion up close

Satara’s white lion up close (photo by Joubert)

Satara’s white lion up close (photo by Joubert with a cellphone camera)

“Casper” the White Lion in our rearview camera

“Casper” the White Lion in our rearview mirror

With this post then ends the recollections of our epic December 2021 holiday at Satara in the Kruger National Park. We hope you enjoyed it along with us.

The Birthday Boy, The Angry Lions, and the Sweni Wilderness Trail

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For almost as long as he’s been able to talk, Joubert expressed a wish to go walking in the Kruger National Park. The challenge with that however was that children younger than twelve years old are not allowed to take part in the guided walks on offer, due to the danger and distances covered (and, I suppose in some cases, short attention spans).

However, at short notice we were made aware of availability on the Sweni Wilderness Trail – the most popular of the trails in Kruger – running from the 18th of August 2021 and, with that being Joubert’s 12 birthday it seemed a blessing straight out of heaven, too good to pass up even if it meant he’d have to miss a week of school…

Unfortunately work commitments meant Marilize wouldn’t be able to join us, so it was just the two de Wet boys that departed Pretoria on the 15th of August for our wilderness adventure. Over the past few weeks we showed you most of what we saw and experienced in the three days leading up to the trail as we traversed the southern reaches of the Kruger Park and then made our slow way up to Satara on the 18th of August.

Klipspringer

Elephant youngster wielding his weapon of choice

Sable Antelope bull

Baboon murder

Hamerkop at sunset

Black-backed Jackal

Hunting Cheetah

Lazy Leopard

Leaping Kudu

Lions at Orpen Rocks

It is at Satara Rest Camp that the ranger-guides meet their guests at the start of the Sweni Wilderness Trail, every Wednesday and Sunday. Having been introduced to our fellow trailists as well as rangers Orbet and Rhulani who’d be guiding the trail, and with all our luggage stowed in the trailer, it was finally time to get onto the open safari vehicle and head into the wilderness. With some wonderful sightings along the way it took us quite some time to cover the distance between Satara and the Sweni Trails camp, and so it is already almost dark when we arrive. Finally Joubert’s wish was coming true, and on his birthday no less.

Heading into the wilderness

Kori Bustard in flight (photo by Joubert)

Spotted Hyena family (photo by Joubert)

Spotted Hyena female showing off her tools (photo by Joubert)

Cute Spotted Hyena youngster (photo by Joubert)

Young Kudu bull (photo by Joubert)

The smile of a boy who’s wish came true

Guests spend three nights in a rustic, remote base camp on the southern bank of the Sweni stream, from where they are taken out into the wilderness on four guided walking excursions before being brought back to Satara at the end of the trail. Joubert and I were allocated the sleeping hut in the furthest corner of the camp. After settling in we all could sit down to the delicious cooking of James, the camp caretaker and chef, rounding off our meal with a slice of birthday cake before Orbet and Rhulani made us aware of the rules of walking in the wilderness in the days to come. Lions roaring nearby lulled us to sleep that night. What would tomorrow hold?

At sunrise, and after enjoying hot coffee and rusks, we were ready to set out exploring. A beautiful clear morning forewarned that it was going to be a hot day, so we made sure we had plenty to drink in our backpacks, in addition to the fare we’d be enjoying whilst having a picnic somewhere in the bush later.

Joubert, very excited in the early morning, before we set out from the Sweni Trail base camp

Brown-hooded Kingfisher in silhouette at dawn (photo by Joubert)

Impala’s crossing the two-spoor road leading from Sweni Wilderness Trails Camp (photo by Joubert)

A short drive westwards out of camp, and in the direction from where the lions were roaring the previous evening, brought us to the area where our ranger-guides determined we’d be walking this first morning. Our walk followed the course of the Sweni stream where the tracks of numerous animals around the remaining pools of water was a sure sign that we’d be encountering lots of wildlife on our morning amble.

Serene pool in the Sweni stream

Lion paw print on top of an elephant spoor

Walking single-file through the veld

Marula tree

Sweni stream

Sweni wilderness scenery

When we came across the lion pride feeding on their wildebeest kill, I was surprised at how close we were to them. Surprised and excited, and entirely unafraid. A good chance at having close encounters with lions while on foot is after all the reason why Sweni is the most sought-after wilderness trail offered in Kruger, and the rangers are experts at keeping their guests safe under such circumstances. One of the lioness were keeping a calm eye on the approaching humans, while the others – three more females, one male and seven cubs – were feeding entirely oblivious to our presence. That was until the male looked up. When he saw the humans just a stone’s throw from where he and his pride were feasting the great beast gave a mighty growl – and fled for his life! This sent the cubs fleeing in every direction while the females were immediately ready to go to war to protect their cubs and their prey. While one female slinked away to go round up the cubs, and the male turned around after a hundred meter dash to stare at us from a distance, the three remaining females left us with no confusion that we were not welcome at their breakfast table. The intensity of their growls was like thunder rumbling from inside the earth; you could feel it resonating in your chest. With lightning in their eyes, their snarls exposing their deadly weaponry, ears pulled back and tails flicking from side to side there was only one way for us to go. Backwards. Slowly. Don’t turn your back on them, or they will charge. And when they do charge, stand still and face them. When she stops, you move backwards again. Slowly, without any sudden movements. And without turning your back! An amazing experience I will never forget. And I don’t believe Joubert will forget it either. No fear, just an amazing sense of respect and gratefulness for being there in the moment.

Lioness keeping an eye on us

Angry lioness

Cubs running for cover (photo by Joubert)

The cubs running for cover

The male left all the security arrangements to the females

Angry lioness (photo by Joubert)

A very angry lioness

Peaking over Joubert’s shoulder while he photographs the angry lionesses

Three very angry lionesses

Angry lionesses (photo by Joubert)

Getting ready to charge (photo by Joubert)

Lioness charging

Lying down after charging

After the exciting encounter with the lions we continue along the Sweni, criss-crossing it and its tributaries at several points, enjoying a well deserved picnic at a beautiful turn in the stream and just soaking in the wildness around us.

Funnel-web Spider nest

Wide-angle view on the Sweni plains

Blue wildebeest

Steenbok

A dry stretch of the Sweni stream bed

One of the precious pools of water along the Sweni

Crossing the Sweni

Baboon

Impala (photo by Joubert)

Impalas

Beautiful pool of water on the Sweni

Marsh Terrapin

A look upstream along the Sweni

Just before we arrive back at the vehicle, and with the sun sitting very high and very hot already, we sneak up on a herd of elephants sleeping in the shade of a tree.

Sneaking up on sleeping elephants

Joubert posing with the elephants

The hot midday hours we spent in camp (after enjoying the delicious lunch James welcomed us back with). The waterhole in front of camp is a magnet for thirsty animals, there’s a lot of habituated birds attracted to the birdbath and there was even a brief appearance by a good-sized African Rock Python in one of the large trees next to the river, meaning there was more than enough entertainment to keep us occupied until the afternoon outing.

View from the Sweni Trails camp

This Nile Crocodile lays claim to the pool in front of the Sweni Wilderness Trail Camp

Bateleur in flight

Crested Francolin

Our little A-frame hut in the Sweni Wilderness Trails Camp

African Rock Python

African Rock Python (photo by Joubert)

Orange-breasted Bush-shrike

On the way to the area where we’d be walking in the afternoon, our guides took a detour to the feasting lions we encountered in the morning. They were still in the same spot, and still gnawing on the remains of their wildebeest prize. We didn’t venture off the vehicle this time, enjoying this meeting from even closer and much safer quarters.

Lioness (photo by Joubert)

Lioness and cubs (photo by Joubert)

Lioness and cub

Lioness surrounded by cubs

Lion cub

The big, but not so brave, male lion

The afternoon walks cover a shorter distance, and take in a pleasing spot from which the African sunset can be enjoyed with something cold in hand. While we didn’t cover as much ground in the afternoon we were again treated to an encounter with lions – this time a mating pair some distance away – as well as lots of other animals and inspiring scenery. From atop the rocky outcrop where we sat enjoying the sunset we also realised that the mating pair of lions were in fact a threesome – two males attending to one female in oestrus.

Secretary bird flying off

Giraffes peering from a clump of bushes

Sweni streambed

Walking into the setting sun

Elephant and lions in one shot (while on foot)

Crossing a wide stretch of the Sweni bed

“Climbing” to the top of the lookout

The third member of the threesome (photo by Joubert)

Lion pair

Sunset over the Sweni plains

We arrive back at camp around 7pm that evening, but not before we enjoy some thrilling night time sightings along the way – and of course we paid “our” lions another visit!

African Civet (photo by Joubert)

African Civet

Lioness (photo by Joubert)

Lion with his cubs (photo by Joubert)

Tender moment between mommy and daddy (photo by Joubert)

Uroplectes vittatus; a species of venomous scorpion that often stings people carrying wood in Africa

The next morning is a lot chiller than the previous, and it soon clouds over. Our route takes along the Nungwini stream and past a natural fountain. Despite the inclement weather we again have wonderful encounters with a wide range of animals, including a lone male lion, elephant bulls, giraffes and honey badgers, and by the time the vehicle comes into sight again I’m sure all of us still had a good few kilometers in the tank.

Grey-headed Bush-shrike

Sunrise over the Sweni plains

Walking along

Greater Honeyguide

Honey Badger peeping at us

Honey Badger trying to slink away (photo by Joubert)

Suspicious giraffe

Big male lion keeping an eye on us

Beautiful elephant bull along the Nungwini (photo by Joubert)

Joubert eyeing an elephant while on foot

This fountain is a source of the Nungwini stream and very rarely dries up.

Stepping carefully over a pool in the Nungwini (where there are crocodiles!)

Crossing a stretch of the Nungwini stream

Elephant walking side-by-side with us

Walking towards the giraffes

Giraffes

Back at camp for lunch and (if you were so inclined) a siesta, a wildebeest bull harassing cows around the waterhole had Joubert happily clicking away, and later the little birds at the birdbath received his full attention.

Joubert at his post

Wildebeest pest (photo by Joubert)

Long-billed Crombec

Blue Waxbill

Green-winged Pytilia (photo by Joubert)

Jameson’s Firefinch (photo by Joubert)

Grey Heron swooping down (photo by Joubert)

On the way to our sundowner spot, Orbet and Rhulani took us to a beautiful stretch of water along the Nungwini stream, just a short walk away. We weren’t there very long, when we had to vacate our prime spot at the water’s edge to allow an approaching herd of elephants to have right of way.

Brown Snake Eagle

The hippo has the pool all to himself

Beautiful stretch of water on the Nungwini stream

Elephants waiting their turn at the water (photo by Joubert)

Joubert aiming his lens at the elephants

Elephants waiting their turn at the water

Another pool along the Nungwini

The vehicle is in sight

Ted’s Place, a cliff in the foothills of the Lebombo Mountains looking out over the plains of the central Kruger Park with the course of the Sweni River snaking through the scene, was a fitting location to reflect on a memorable trail before heading back to base camp, where a pair of honey badgers were waiting for us to return.

Joubert at Ted’s Place

View from Ted’s Place

Father and son reminiscing about the special memories they collected in the wilderness

Large-spotted Genet

Uroplectes vittatus; a species of venomous scorpion that often stings people carrying wood in Africa

Honey Badger

It wasn’t easy to say goodbye to the Sweni Trail’s base camp that final morning, and the drizzly weather certainly reflected our mood. Aside from a wet family of spotted hyenas, there wasn’t a lot of animals to be seen along the road back to Satara.

One last shot of Joubert at the Sweni Wilderness Trail camp

Baby Spotted Hyena

Spotted Hyena

After saying goodbye to Orbet, Rhulani, James and the other guests that shared our experiences in the wilderness in those three short days, it was time for Joubert and me to head for home… Leaving through Orpen Gate really was our only option if we wanted to beat the government COVID-curfew, though we delayed our departure just a smidgeon by detouring past Muzandzeni Picnic Site and Talamati Bushveld Camp.

Waterbuck at Nsemani Dam

Elephant on the plains west of Satara

Immature Saddle-billed Stork

Plains Zebras

Waterhole at Talamati

Green, or Red-billed, Wood-hoopoe

Bushbuck ewe (photo by Joubert)

Tawny Eagles feasting on a monitor lizard (photo by Joubert)

Kudu cow (photo by Joubert)

We were already quite some distance out the gate at Orpen, and passing one of the many game farms along the road, when we saw a leopard next to the fence of one of these farms. While we were still despondent about no longer being in Kruger this unexpected find made us realise all over again that we were still in Africa, which means we’re more blessed than 6.5-billion other people on earth…

Joubert photographing a leopard inside a game farm along the road, Hoedspruit district, South Africa

Leopard inside a game farm along the road, Hoedspruit district, South Africa

Summertide Diary: Exploring Mountain Zebra (part two)

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2 January 2021

When dawn found the Mountain Zebra National Park under heavy skies this morning we were already underway along the Kranskop Loop.

Black-backed Jackal

The view westwards from the western leg of the Kranskop Loop

Grey Rhebok

The view eastwards (towards the camp) from the western leg of the Kranskop Loop

When we arrived at the start of Rooiplaat Loop we found a male lion lying there, flat on its right-side. We sat there as the minutes passed, studying it through cameras and binoculars and finally coming to the sad conclusion that this lion was dead – there wasn’t even a twitch of an ear or any movement of its stomach to indicate a breath being taken. Disheartened, I started the car to drive off.

King Roy, fast asleep

The sound of the Duster’s engine had a miraculous effect. The lion lifted his head, sleepily. He rested his head on his paws for a while, then gave a mighty yawn before getting up, stretching his legs and then lying down again to look at us in irritation. He is magnificent, known as Roy, and despite his advanced age one of the ruling coalition of lion males here at Mountain Zebra National Park, along with Nomad whom we saw at a distance the day before .

King Roy, awoken

King Roy, in repose

King Roy, yawning

Male lion at Mountain Zebra National Park

King Roy, contemplative

Male lion at Mountain Zebra National Park

When the next vehicle arrived at the lion sighting we moved of so that those visitors too could have a private audience with The King. The skies have cleared and it’s turning into a glorious day. On our way back to camp we passed Roy again, and he was fast asleep again.

Springbok dot the Rooiplaat Plateau

Young Springbok

Black Harrier

Black-shouldered Kite

Mountain Wheatear

Red Hartebeest trio

Eland cow

Red-billed Quelea

Blue Cranes in flight

Meerkat

River crossing in Mountain Zebra National Park

South African Shelduck

Southern Rock Agama

Steppe Buzzard

King Roy, asleep again…

With it being our last afternoon at Mountain Zebra we opted to visit all our favourite spots along the Ubejane and Rooiplaat Loops and the Link road between them again. There’s just something so indescribably peaceful about driving around wild Africa as dusk approaches.

Young Springbok rams testing their strength (photo by Joubert)

Blue Crane

Cape Mountain Zebra

Thirsty Secretarybird

Mountain Zebras

Cape Longclaw

Kopieva

Springbok on the wide open plains of the Mountain Zebra National Park

We posted a special feature about Mountain Zebra National Park following a previous visit, if you’d like to learn more about this special destination.

Map of Mountain Zebra National Park from the SANParks website (https://www.sanparks.org/images/parks/mountain_zebra/mznp-map.jpg)

Summertide Rambles 2 January 2021

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This morning we were treated to a very special audience with the King of the Mountain Zebra National Park at his residence on the Rooiplaat loop road.

Male lion at Mountain Zebra National Park

A day in Pilanesberg: Hour 6

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We’re still on a high from our sighting of Rain the cheetah and her cubs when we turn from Nare Link into Sefara Drive in the Pilanesberg National Park, following the road uphill. Before we even crest the rise we become aware of the sound of thundering hooves moving at speed…

“Buffaloes!”

The Park’s buffaloes are so seldomly seen that they’re known as the “ghosts of the Pilanesberg”, and any encounter with them is a thrilling treat. Even more so these particular buffaloes, as they are in quite a rush to get away as quickly as possible, allowing only a few photos as they run past us, thankfully without smashing into our vehicle. Was it us who scared them?

Buffaloes rushing past us on Sefara Drive

As the buffaloes stampede down into the valley, we get back our composure and drive on. We don’t get very far however before Joubert yells out, again, “Lions!” Could it really be our third lion sighting of the morning!?

Indeed, there obscured behind some twigs and branches, are a pride of 5 lions wrestling with a buffalo cow on the ground! Now the stampeding herd of buffaloes we saw half-a-minute ago makes perfect sense!

Lions killing a buffalo on Sefara Drive

As the bellowing of the cow dies down, no longer to be heard above the sound of raindrops on the car’s roof, and her feverish kicking stops, it’s clear that the fight is all over. In the excitement it takes a while for me to figure out that if I drive past the scene we’d have a much clearer view of it looking back. Just as the feeding starts one of the younger lionesses gets up and walks off, presumably to collect the pride’s cubs to join the feast. While we wait almost an hour for her to return, she doesn’t, so the cubs must’ve been quite some distance away. In the meantime the sights and sounds of the lions tearing the buffalo cow open and apart is as bone-chilling as you can imagine.

Lions preying on buffalo in the Pilanesberg National Park

And to think we’re only half-way through our day in the Pilanesberg!

If you’d like to follow along as we explore the Pilanesberg, a map may come in handy (for a large format version click here)

Scene where we saw the buffaloes and lions on Sefara Drive

If you need to catch up on our drive through the Pilanesberg National Park, you can read all the previous posts here.

To be continued tomorrow.

A day in Pilanesberg: Hour 4

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Mankwe Dam, a large man-made impoundment that holds water throughout the year and that’s a veritable magnet for wildlife, is located in the heart of the Pilanesberg National Park. On its banks you’ll find the Mankwe Hide, very popular with photographers and recently rebuilt after being destroyed in a veld fire. That is where we are headed next.

African Pipit just outside Mankwe Hide

We weren’t exactly thrilled to see this exotic invader, a Common Myna, at Mankwe Dam

Warthog and Mankwe Hide

View over Mankwe Dam from Mankwe Hide

Yellow-billed Stork at Mankwe Dam

Back in the hide’s parking area this southern masked weaver is enjoying a bath in a small puddle- as if he is too scared to go swimming in the big pool on the other side!

Southern Masked Weaver enjoying a muddy puddle at Mankwe Dam

Almost immediately after driving out of the parking area at the hide, we come across a pair of lions – our second lion sighting of the day and less than 200 steps from where we were standing outside our vehicle just a few seconds ago! Luckily, being a mating pair, their attentions are focused on satisfying other base instincts than finding food. Our day just keeps getting better!

Mating lions at Mankwe Hide

Leaving the lions to their honeymoon, we head north along Kgabo Drive and take a left into Tlou. Along the way we add further to our list of birds seen, including this rufous-naped lark singing its lungs out from a prominent perch.

Rufous-naped Lark

Just as we get to the junction of Tlou and Thuthlwa drives we find another brown hyena, walking quite purposefully away from an old elephant carcass with a large chunk of bone in its jaws. We follow alongside until it disappears into a thicket, its destination remaining a mystery to us but we like to think that it is headed to a den with hungry youngsters waiting.