Tag Archives: Kruger National Park

Crocodile Bridge Rest Camp, Kruger National Park

Crocodile Bridge

Almost right in the south-east corner of the Kruger National Park lies quaint Crocodile Bridge, which serves both as an entrance gate into the Park and a rest camp providing overnight accommodation and other amenities to visitors.

Crocodile Bridge sunset

Crocodile Bridge sunset

The first Europeans to set foot in what is today the Kruger National Park was a Dutch expedition from Delagoa Bay (today Maputo, Mozambique) in 1725, under command of Francois de Kuiper, who was forced to turn around at Gomondwane just north of Crocodile Bridge by antagonistic locals.

By 1894 work started on the railway bridge across the Crocodile River, an important section of the Selati Line.

Crocodile Bridge railway bridge

Crocodile Bridge railway bridge

Crocodile Bridge was one of the first four ranger stations in the Sabie Game Reserve, which later became the Kruger National Park. The first stretch of road in the Park was built by ranger de la Porte from Crocodile Bridge to his post at Lower Sabie for use by his personal Model-T Ford, but it was too rough to be used by visitors and so had to be upgraded soon after the Park’s proclamation in 1926. The pontoon over the Crocodile River was in use until 1945, the last in the Park to be replaced with a low-level causeway.

Misty Crocodile Bridge sunrise

Misty Crocodile Bridge sunrise

In March 1929, the Crocodile Bridge area was the scene of one of the most notorious events in the young Park’s history. Two lorry loads of American tourists, visiting South Africa on a cruise ship tour, were driven into the Park on their way to Lower Sabie, when they were caught in a thunderstorm and decided to turn back. A dry stream they had crossed earlier was now in flash flood, but the drivers decided to cross it nevertheless, with dreadful consequence, as the first truck was summarily overturned by the raging water. Luckily no one was killed or seriously injured. When lions started roaring nearby, the soggy tourists climbed into the thorn trees and this is where the local ranger found them hours later; cold, miserable, wet, muddy and tattered. The subsequent reports all over the world describing the Park as a “death trap” lead to it being closed to visitors annually through the wet season, a ruling that was scrapped only in the late 1970’s.

The perils of working as the ranger guide at the Hippo Pools - a herd of buffalo may just cause you to be late for work!

The perils of working as the ranger guide at the Hippo Pools – a herd of buffalo may just cause you to be late for work!

Today, the area around Crocodile Bridge is one of the most popular regions in the Park – little wonder considering that the immediate area around the camp supports large numbers of a huge variety of animals and birds. The tarred road leading to Lower Sabie carries most of the “traffic”, and so we prefer to travel on the gravel roads instead when we are in the vicinity. The S25 road that follows the course of the Crocodile River westwards towards Malelane is a particular favourite that often delivers sightings of predators. A short turn-off from this road takes you to the Hippo Pools, where an armed ranger escorts visitors to the river’s edge for a closer view of the hippos, crocodiles and riverine birds. The S28 Nhlowa Road is an alternative, and highly recommended, route through to Lower Sabie. Near camp, Gezantfombi Dam is just the place to enjoy that first morning coffee or to while away the last couple of minutes before the gates close for the night.

The camp lies on the bank of the Crocodile River and its shady grounds are frequented by a myriad of small animals and a rich birdlife – just keep a watchful eye on the little vervet monkeys who’ll part you from any food left in the open in the blink of an eye! Crocodile Bridge first opened to visitors in the 1930’s but was completely rebuilt in 1987. It offers twenty 3-bed bungalows with their own bathrooms and kitchenettes, eight safari tents that make use of communal facilities, and a small campsite (with plugpoints). The camp also has a small, but well stocked, shop and a fuel station.

It’s the family-friendly atmosphere that draws us to Crocodile Bridge most. The spacious, green, shady lawns of the camp, the game-rich surroundings and the peacefulness of it all will see us return again and again…

Crocodile Bridge

Crocodile Bridge

Unexpected

Finding a little bat in a corner of a kitchen at Shingwedzi Rest Camp, was definitely an unexpected, but not unwelcome, surprise.

Unexpected

Unexpected” is this week’s weekly photo challenge from WordPress.

Habits

It’s not only humans that are pre-occupied with grooming!

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habit2

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This week, “habit” is the theme for WordPress’ photo challenge

Punda Maria Rest Camp, Kruger National Park

Punda Maria, the Kruger National Park’s northern-most rest camp, is a unique place rich in character, history and natural beauty.

Pafuri

Pafuri

In 1919 Captain JJ Coetzer, after serving in the military in East Africa, was appointed to a new ranger post in the north of the then Shingwedzi Game Reserve. He named his base, at the Shikokololo fountain at the foot of Dimbo Hill, Punda Maria – a combination of punda milia, Swahili for zebra, after the first animals he encountered in the area, and his wife’s name, Maria, who reportedly loved wearing striped dresses.

Pafuri

Pafuri

The original lattice-and-mud, white-washed walls and thatched roofs of the accommodation units constructed in 1933 are still used to house guests today. The interiors of the units were modernised in the 1980’s without altering the exterior appearance, preserving Punda Maria’s wilderness outpost atmosphere. The camp also offers two comfortable family cottages and seven two-sleeper safari tents, as well as a large camping area at the foot of the hill. Facilities in the camp includes a small shop, restaurant, filling station, laundry, swimming pool and a hide overlooking a flood-lit waterhole next to the perimeter fence. Guided drives and walks are available and the self-guided Paradise Flycatcher Trail that meanders through a piece of natural vegetation on the hillside within the camp allows an opportunity to get close to the small animals and numerous birds that call Punda Maria home.

The area around Punda Maria is exceptionally rich in plant, animal and bird life and is renowned for its scenic splendour.


Mahonie Loop is one of the prettiest drives in the Kruger National Park. The loop goes around Dimbo Hill, passes three waterholes and crosses several small streams. Even though the entire route is less than 30 kilometres in distance, there’s so much to see and enjoy that it usually takes several hours to complete.


To the south-east of Punda Maria, in the direction of Shingwedzi, Dzundwini hill rises from the surrounding mopane plains. Dzundwini Loop passes between the hill and a series of fountains that attract good numbers of game, especially during the dry season, and a short cul-de-sac takes one high up onto the hill to a scenic vantage point.

Dzundwini

Dzundwini

Dzundwini

Dzundwini

Close to camp, on the S60 heading towards Pafuri, lies the long, flat hill of Gumbandebvu, regarded as sacred and haunted. The hill is named after a chief who’s daughter, Khama, was reputed to have had the gift of rain-making.

Khama working her rain-making magic over Gumbandebvu

Khama working her rain-making magic over Gumbandebvu

No visit to the North of the Kruger National Park would be complete without a pilgrimage to Pafuri. This is one of the Kruger’s most unspoilt areas and is regarded as one of the best birding locations in the entire country. The Pafuri Picnic Spot is a peaceful place to enjoy a leisurely meal or cool drink, watching the waters of the Luvuvhu River flow slowly past, with only the constant twittering of colourful birds, the call of a fish eagle, the bark of a baboon or the snort of a hippo to break the silence.

Thulamela, located on a hill overlooking the Luvuvhu River at the end of the short Nyala Loop, was a 16th century citadel from the same culture responsible for Great Zimbabwe. Artifacts found on the site is evidence of trade between this sophisticated hierarchical society and places as far afield as India, China and West Africa. Guided tours of the ruins can be undertaken from Punda Maria.

Thulamela Hill

Thulamela Hill

At the confluence of the Luvuvhu and Limpopo Rivers three countries meet – South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe. Because all kinds of smugglers, bandits and poachers from the late 1800’s and early 1900’s could evade capture by the law-enforcement authorities of these countries by simply slipping across the borders, the area quickly became known as “Crook’s Corner”.

Crooks Corner

Crooks Corner

Crooks Corner

Crooks Corner

If you long to touch the wilderness, if you want to experience the Kruger National Park at its uncluttered wildest and if your pioneering spirit wants to drift back to more romantic times, then ensure that you include Punda Maria in your Kruger Park itinerary!

Pafuri

Pafuri

The Hue of Us

Given our love for South Africa’s wild places, the earthy, natural colours would probably describe us best…

Hues

This picture was taken at Pafuri, in the far north of the Kruger National Park and we post it here in response to the latest weekly photo challenge from WordPress; “The Hue of You

Kruger National Park, September 2013.

Yes, we’ve been to the Kruger National Park again…

Our Heritage Day long weekend in Kruger started early, on the morning of Friday the 20th of September, waiting at Phalaborwa for the gate to open. Formalities completed, our chosen route took us along some of the less traveled gravel roads in the area to Letaba Rest Camp, where we’d spend our first night in the Park.

We spent the afternoon traversing the roads around the camp, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere and spending some time with our favourite Letaba resident, the big tusker Masthulele, and Hlahleni, one of the pretenders to the throne.

Come Saturday morning, we were on our way to Punda Maria, Kruger’s northern-most rest camp. A cold front was heading for the lowveld, and strong gusts of wind accompanied us all the way. Good sightings of elephants and some of Kruger’s rare antelope species, and a variety of other animals and birds, kept us entertained on the long drive northwards, and we arrived at “Punda”, where we were joined by Marilize’s parents and would be staying for the next three nights, just in time for the 2PM check-in time.

(We’ll dedicate a special post to Punda Maria soon – the camp and the area around it has a rich and fascinating history and plenty to offer nature lovers)

No visit to the north of the Kruger National Park would be complete without a pilgrimage to magical Pafuri. And so, despite the cold front having Kruger now firmly in its cold and wet grasp, this is where we headed on Sunday. Pafuri is a lush tropical paradise next to the Luvuvhu River, a bird watcher’s heaven, with regal nyala antelope around seemingly every corner.

That evening, a herd of elephant spent a lazy hour or two at the floodlit waterhole next to the camp fence. You’ll understand why I blame the waterhole and the hide that overlooks it for losing quite a bit of sleep this weekend – who can sleep when there’s this much action right on your doorstep!

Elephant herd at Punda Maria's waterhole

Elephant herd at Punda Maria’s waterhole

We decided to visit recently re-opened Shingwedzi on our last full day in the Park. Shingwedzi Rest Camp and its immediate surroundings was hard-hit by the January 2013 floods, and we were curious to have a look at how our favourite Kruger camp has bounced back (some photos in our “Shingwedzi after the flood” post). Along the way an extremely aggressive elephant bull showed two buses and several SUV’s exactly who is in charge of this piece of wild Africa!

Elephant roadblock on the way to Shingwedzi

Elephant roadblock on the way to Shingwedzi

The Shingwedzi area is teeming with game at the moment. We had our first ever sighting of an albino impala, and a massive eland bull spending some time in the almost dry Mphongolo River was a welcome surprise, as these large but skittish antelope are rarely seen by visitors to the Kruger Park.

Almost back at Punda Maria that evening we had a thrilling encounter with a young lion walking past a herd of elephant on the Dzundwini Loop (photo here).

See the lion?

See the lion?

Dinner was followed by some more time spent photographing Punda Maria’s nightlife instead of sleeping…

Genet, Punda Maria

Genet, Punda Maria

Milky Way

Milky Way above Punda Maria

But all good things come to an end and Kruger said goodbye with a magic sunrise on our way to Punda Maria Gate and back to Pretoria. Wouldn’t a scene like this also just convince that you need to get back here as soon as possible? Yes, we are already planning our next visit to Kruger National Park…

Punda Maria sunrise

Punda Maria sunrise

Saturated

Heavy thunderclouds hanging threateningly above an already overflowing Pioneer Dam, at Mopani Rest Camp in the Kruger National Park

Saturated

Saturated” is this week’s photo challenge from WordPress

Shingwedzi after the flood

Our September 2013 trip to the north of the Kruger National Park afforded us the opportunity of visiting our favourite Shingwedzi Rest Camp for the first time following the devastating floods in January 2013.

Most of Shingwedzi has re-opened for visitors, with only some facilities, including the restaurant, remaining out-of-service – a sterling effort getting the camp up-and-running again so soon!

Revamped Shingwedzi shop

Revamped Shingwedzi shop

The view downstream from camp, to where the causeway is now buried beneath a thick layer of sand

The view downstream from camp, to where the causeway is now buried beneath a thick layer of sand

View upstream from camp, where a huge pool of water now houses hippos and crocodiles where previously there would have been nothing but sand in the dry season

View upstream from camp – a huge pool of water now houses hippos and crocodiles where previously there would have been nothing but sand in the dry season

Shingwedzi accommodation

Shingwedzi accommodation

Shingwedzi camping site

Shingwedzi camping site

Shingwedzi accommodation

Shingwedzi main building – reception, shop and restaurant

Shingwedzi accommodation

Shingwedzi accommodation

Shingwedzi camping site

Shingwedzi camping site

Driving around the area, the impact on man-made infrastructure and the natural environment was still clearly evident eight months after the flood waters of the Mphongolo and Shingwedzi Rivers swept through here in the dark of night.

Elephant at a pool in the Shingwedzi River

Elephant at a pool in the Shingwedzi River

Deep sediment deposits where the Shingwedzi burst its banks

Deep sediment deposits where the Shingwedzi burst its banks

Bent trees and shrubs along the Shingwedzi river

Bent trees and shrubs along the Shingwedzi river

What's left of the Kanniedood Dam wall. Not a single tree remain standing in the immediate area below the broken wall!

What’s left of the Kanniedood Dam wall. Not a single tree remain standing in the immediate area below the broken dam – before the flood you could not even see the wall due to the dense plantlife!

Debris, deep sand and newly formed pools of water along the course of the Shingwedzi River

Debris, deep sand and newly formed pools of water along the course of the Shingwedzi River

Nature is resilient and we have no doubt that the Shingwedzi area will remain a firm favourite for many of the Kruger faithful, the de Wets included! Have a look here to find out why we love Shingwedzi so much!

Lines and Patterns

The blotches, and the lines between them, on a giraffe’s hide are as unique as human fingerprints. These photographs were taken during our recent trip to the North of the Kruger National Park.

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From lines to patterns” is this week’s photo challenge theme

 

Just another day in the Kruger: 23 September 2013

Never a day passes in the Kruger National Park that is not full of surprises.

We will be heading back home to Pretoria tomorrow, but today we had great sightings of huge elephant and buffalo herds, jackals, a massive eland bull, several grysbok and even an albino impala.

The highlight of the day was seeing a young male lion walking casually past a mixed herd of elephant and buffalo on the Dzundwini loop-road near Punda Maria – that’s three of the “Big-5” in the same spot! Unfortunately I could only manage a shot of the lion and elephant in the same frame.

Lion and elephants 20130923