Category Archives: uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park

Our experiences in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, South Africa

Kamberg Nature Reserve

Talk about South Africa’s most scenic natural attractions, and the Drakensberg mountain range is sure to feature in the conversation. The Kamberg is a distinctive mountain, reminiscent of a comb (“kam” in Afrikaans, “berg” meaning mountain), in the foothills of the Drakensberg. The Kamberg Nature Reserve was originally proclaimed in 1951, covering only 2,232 hectares. Today it forms an integral part of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park‘s expansive 243,000 hectares of protected mountain paradise, recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site of natural and cultural significance. Grasslands predominate, though forested sections exist in the sheltered valleys and extensive reedbeds and wetlands can be found along the Mooi (“pretty”) River, which forms a focal point for the reserve.

Whatever your energy levels, there’s ample opportunities to enjoy the refreshing mountain air at Kamberg. The reserve is well known in fly-fishing circles, with the Mooi River and two dams stocked with (admittedly exotic) trout. There’s three small, but well maintained, picnic sites – one in a copse of trees at the gate, one on the banks of Eland Dam, and one next to the river. Of course there are several trails leading down into the valleys and up into the mountains that may be explored on foot or mountain bike. And there’s a jungle gym and swings to keep the younger generation entertained within shouting distance of the chalets up at the camp.

The tiny camp at Kamberg, managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, is heaven-on-earth to any weary city dweller searching for peace and quiet, as there’s only 5 two-bedded chalets and one six-sleeper cottage at the camp. Eight kilometers from the main resort, the rustic and isolated Stillerust (Afrikaans for “quiet rest”) Farm House provides accommodation for ten guests. There’s a very limited selection of cooldrinks and sweets on sale at reception, and guests should bring along all their own provisions, firewood included. Just behind the camp, at the reception office, is the Kamberg San Rock Art Interpretive Centre where educational films on the San rock art of the Drakensberg are shown and from where the guided walks to the Game Pass Shelter departs. It’s a three-hour round trip to the internationally renowned cave, where high quality San paintings that were instrumental in deciphering the meaning behind the images left by these hunter-gatherers on rock faces across Southern Africa, can be appreciated. Unfortunately the prevailing weather conditions kept us from visiting the cave on this trip, but that’s reason enough in itself to return soon! For guests staying longer, Kamberg is also an ideal base from which to explore other destinations in the Drakensberg, such as nearby Giant’s Castle, and Midlands attractions like Midmar Dam, Karkloof Conservancy, Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve and Queen Elizabeth Park.

During our visit, the local wildlife mostly remained well hidden in the long, flowing grasslands through the day, except for a water mongoose that flashed across the trail next to Erskine Dam, a troop of baboons that sauntered through the camp one afternoon and a distant herd of black wildebeest we saw on the plains near Stillerust. At night however literally dozens of antelope; reedbuck, grey rhebuck and grey duiker, and hares and rabbits would come out to graze on the lawns between the chalets at the camp.

The Drakensberg is home to an amazingly diverse birdlife, with several rare and endemic species occurring at Kamberg. We were thrilled to see several pairs of grey crowned cranes in the wetlands, but absolutely overjoyed by our first ever sighting in the wild of the highly endangered  wattled cranes, even if the breeding pair was quite far off in the distance and our photograph nothing more than proof of the sighting 😉

Speaking of cranes, we paid a quick visit to the Hlatikulu Crane Sanctuary on the nearby property of the Entabeni Education Centre where they take care of injured and orphaned blue, crowned and wattled cranes and do more than their share to preserve these special and endangered birds for South Africa’s future generations.

From Pretoria, it’s a drive of approximately 540km to Kamberg, following the N3 southwards to Mooi River. The road to the reserve turns off the R103 at Rosetta, between the Midlands towns of Mooi River and Howick. The 40km (30km tar and 10km gravel) stretch between Rosetta and Kamberg is a very scenic drive through green farmlands and the foothills that constitute the “Little ‘Berg”,  and should not be rushed (the road is not in a good enough condition to travel on at speed in any case).

Kamberg Map

Pretoria to Kamberg (drawn from Google Maps)

Our first visit to Kamberg over a long weekend early in May 2015 opened only a tiny window onto the rich cultural and natural treasures protected there. We’ll be back for sure; there’s still so much to explore, experience and appreciate at this little known gem of “the ‘Berg”.

Intricate

An exquisite example of San rock art, on display at the Main Caves Museum in Giant’s Castle Game Reserve, in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site.

Intricate

Intricate” is this week’s WordPress photo challenge theme.

Kamberg tranquility

This morning, we awoke to beautifully clear skies here at Kamberg.

Kamberg 02-05-2015

We also learned just how quickly and unpredictably the weather can change in the Drakensberg; within half-an-hour of this photo being taken it was completely overcast!

Not working on Workers’ Day

It’s the Workers’ Day long weekend in South Africa, and we find ourselves at the tiny camp at Kamberg, in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park. It is our first time at Kamberg, and thus far we’re quite impressed with what we found.

Kamberg 01-05-2015

Fresh

The crystal clear and unquestionably fresh mountain streams at Giant’s Castle Game Reserve, in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park

Fresh” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge.

Our 2014 in pictures

Looking back at the fantastic places we stayed at while exploring South Africa’s wild places in 2014…

At home in the Giant’s Castle…

If you are going to brave the Easter weekend traffic on South Africa’s roads you had better be heading to a very special destination. Giant’s Castle Game Reserve in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park is just such a place and that’s where the de Wet’s spent Easter 2014.

Arriving at Giant's Castle

Arriving at Giant’s Castle

Getting to Giant’s Castle is no problem. The road is clearly signposted from the N3 highway near Estcourt in the Natal Midlands. From there it is about a 60km drive on a narrow tar road, though beware the last eleven or so kilometres before the gate, which is badly potholed. You’ll be richly rewarded for the slow drive with tranquil rural scenes and waves from friendly locals.

GiantsCastleLandscape (2)

The 7km stretch of road leading from the gate to the hutted camp is an excellent introduction to the breathtaking mountain landscape. In the green valley far below flows the Bushmans River, with the high peaks of the Drakensberg Mountain Range forming a grand backdrop. Inside the reserve, altitudes range from 1,650m at the entrance to over 3,400m at the top of the escarpment and vegetation varies from grasslands to small patches of valley forest.

The reserve was first proclaimed in 1903 to protect the dwindling herds of eland, Africa’s largest antelope, and today these bulky animals are among the most frequently encountered animals in the Giant’s Castle Game Reserve. Over 340 species of birds and more than 50 species of reptile occur in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park.

There’s also the cliff-top vulture hide, where photographers can stakeout a wide variety of  carrion-eating birds and animals. It is immensely popular and booked out months in advance, the big attraction being the chance of getting close-up shots of the endangered Bearded and Cape Vultures in their natural habitat.

Giant's Castle's vulture hide

Giant’s Castle’s vulture hide

Bearded vulture in flight

Bearded vulture in flight

Hiking in the mountains is a major activity at Giant’s Castle and there’s a number of trails of various lengths to undertake, ranging in time from a few hours to several days to complete. The most popular trail is the easy 45 minute walk to the Main Caves Museum – around a two-hour return trip if you include the guided tour of the museum. These mountains was once the home of the San people, though today the only proof of their erstwhile presence is the paintings they left on the walls of the many caves in the area, including the drawings on display at the Main Caves Museum.

Along the way back from the caves you can stop for a breather at “Rock 75”, a campsite of Col. Durnford’s 75th Regiment during the 1870’s Langalibalele Rebellion, and take in some more of the region’s rich history.

The hutted camp at Giant’s Castle is a very comfortable place to stay and an excellent base from which to explore many of the shorter trails in the area. The camp offers a good restaurant and small curio shop with a limited selection of groceries. Accommodation is available in two-, four- or six-sleeper, fully self-contained, chalets, each of them themed after a different flowering plant that occurs in the Drakensberg (more than 800 species of flowering plants occur in these mountains). Our unit, number 7 – “Gladiolus”, had a terrific view of the Giant and his Castle and was decorated with exquisitely detailed and annotated paintings of several different species of gladioli.

Crisp mountain air and mountain water so clear and cool that you can’t stop yourself drinking directly from the stream seems good enough reason to brave the Easter traffic, wouldn’t you agree?

GiantsCastleLandscape (9)

 

 

 

 

 

On the Move!

During our recent Easter visit to the Giant’s Castle Game Reserve in the Drakensberg we encountered numerous black-backed jackals, and most of them turned and made a run for it the moment they realised they were spotted.

On the move 1

On the move 2

On the Move” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge

Time to depart the Giant’s Castle

21 April 2014

We left Giant’s Castle before dawn this morning, hoping to beat the Easter Weekend traffic back to Pretoria (which we did). Between the packing there was just enough time to take a picture or two of the Drakensberg illuminated by moon- and starlight.

Giants Castle 20140421

Look out for more from Giant’s Castle Game Reserve in an upcoming edition of de Wets Wild!

A serpent in the Giant’s garden

20 April 2014

We happened upon this adder sunning itself on an open patch next to the hiking trail this morning. Just goes to prove that even when hiking in such exquisite surroundings as here at Giant’s Castle, you have to keep a sharp look-out for dangerous situations.

Giants Castle 20140420