Tag Archives: wildlife

Kamberg Nature Reserve

Talk about South Africa’s most scenic natural attractions, and the Drakensberg mountain range is sure to feature in the conversation. The Kamberg is a distinctive mountain, reminiscent of a comb (“kam” in Afrikaans, “berg” meaning mountain), in the foothills of the Drakensberg. The Kamberg Nature Reserve was originally proclaimed in 1951, covering only 2,232 hectares. Today it forms an integral part of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park‘s expansive 243,000 hectares of protected mountain paradise, recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site of natural and cultural significance. Grasslands predominate, though forested sections exist in the sheltered valleys and extensive reedbeds and wetlands can be found along the Mooi (“pretty”) River, which forms a focal point for the reserve.

Whatever your energy levels, there’s ample opportunities to enjoy the refreshing mountain air at Kamberg. The reserve is well known in fly-fishing circles, with the Mooi River and two dams stocked with (admittedly exotic) trout. There’s three small, but well maintained, picnic sites – one in a copse of trees at the gate, one on the banks of Eland Dam, and one next to the river. Of course there are several trails leading down into the valleys and up into the mountains that may be explored on foot or mountain bike. And there’s a jungle gym and swings to keep the younger generation entertained within shouting distance of the chalets up at the camp.

The tiny camp at Kamberg, managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, is heaven-on-earth to any weary city dweller searching for peace and quiet, as there’s only 5 two-bedded chalets and one six-sleeper cottage at the camp. Eight kilometers from the main resort, the rustic and isolated Stillerust (Afrikaans for “quiet rest”) Farm House provides accommodation for ten guests. There’s a very limited selection of cooldrinks and sweets on sale at reception, and guests should bring along all their own provisions, firewood included. Just behind the camp, at the reception office, is the Kamberg San Rock Art Interpretive Centre where educational films on the San rock art of the Drakensberg are shown and from where the guided walks to the Game Pass Shelter departs. It’s a three-hour round trip to the internationally renowned cave, where high quality San paintings that were instrumental in deciphering the meaning behind the images left by these hunter-gatherers on rock faces across Southern Africa, can be appreciated. Unfortunately the prevailing weather conditions kept us from visiting the cave on this trip, but that’s reason enough in itself to return soon! For guests staying longer, Kamberg is also an ideal base from which to explore other destinations in the Drakensberg, such as nearby Giant’s Castle, and Midlands attractions like Midmar Dam, Karkloof Conservancy, Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve and Queen Elizabeth Park.

During our visit, the local wildlife mostly remained well hidden in the long, flowing grasslands through the day, except for a water mongoose that flashed across the trail next to Erskine Dam, a troop of baboons that sauntered through the camp one afternoon and a distant herd of black wildebeest we saw on the plains near Stillerust. At night however literally dozens of antelope; reedbuck, grey rhebuck and grey duiker, and hares and rabbits would come out to graze on the lawns between the chalets at the camp.

The Drakensberg is home to an amazingly diverse birdlife, with several rare and endemic species occurring at Kamberg. We were thrilled to see several pairs of grey crowned cranes in the wetlands, but absolutely overjoyed by our first ever sighting in the wild of the highly endangered  wattled cranes, even if the breeding pair was quite far off in the distance and our photograph nothing more than proof of the sighting 😉

Speaking of cranes, we paid a quick visit to the Hlatikulu Crane Sanctuary on the nearby property of the Entabeni Education Centre where they take care of injured and orphaned blue, crowned and wattled cranes and do more than their share to preserve these special and endangered birds for South Africa’s future generations.

From Pretoria, it’s a drive of approximately 540km to Kamberg, following the N3 southwards to Mooi River. The road to the reserve turns off the R103 at Rosetta, between the Midlands towns of Mooi River and Howick. The 40km (30km tar and 10km gravel) stretch between Rosetta and Kamberg is a very scenic drive through green farmlands and the foothills that constitute the “Little ‘Berg”,  and should not be rushed (the road is not in a good enough condition to travel on at speed in any case).

Kamberg Map

Pretoria to Kamberg (drawn from Google Maps)

Our first visit to Kamberg over a long weekend early in May 2015 opened only a tiny window onto the rich cultural and natural treasures protected there. We’ll be back for sure; there’s still so much to explore, experience and appreciate at this little known gem of “the ‘Berg”.

Force of nature

Few things will stop an African elephant bull at full speed… This photo was taken near Babalala, between Shingwedzi and Punda Maria, in the northern Kruger National Park.

Force of nature

“Forces of nature” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge

48 hours in Golden Gate

A public holiday long weekend in South Africa was just the excuse we needed to head back into one of our favourite South African wild places, Golden Gate Highlands National Park.

Golden Gate Autumn 2015 (1)

Glen Reenen Rest Camp, where cottage 25 was our abode for the two nights we spent in Golden Gate on this trip, was a festival of autumn colours. Two horses also made themselves right at home among the accommodation units, and provided loads of entertainment to us all, most especially involving Joubert either photographing them or inviting them over.

Of course we were not going to spend our time in camp only, as beautiful a place as Glen Reenen is, and we made sure we took in as much of Golden Gate’s spectacular scenery as we could fit into two days.

In a place this beautiful, the plentiful animal and birdlife certainly is a special bonus!

Almost exactly two days after we arrived, we set off back home to Pretoria, convinced yet again that Golden Gate is a very special place. If you’d like to learn more about Golden Gate Highlands National Park, have a read through the special blogpost we did on the Park’s fiftieth birthday.

Our new favourite route to Golden Gate, via Sasolburg, Heilbron, Petrus Steyn and Bethlehem, a distance of about 400km from Pretoria (map drawn with Google Maps)

Our new favourite route to Golden Gate, via Sasolburg, Heilbron, Petrus Steyn and Bethlehem, a distance of about 400km from Pretoria (map drawn with Google Maps)

Motion

Animals on the move at Golden Gate Highlands National Park. And guess where we’re heading tomorrow for the Freedom Day Long Weekend? 😉

Motion” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge.

 

Loskop Dam Nature Reserve

In the 1930’s a wall of 45m high and 506m in length was built across a gorge cut by the Olifants River, giving rise to the Loskop Dam, intended to provide reliable irrigation for farming activities through a series of canals over 480km in length that was eventually completed in the late 1940’s. As was government policy at the time, only married white men were employed on the project initially, but due to a lack of labour stalling the progress unmarried white men were also later taken on. After the wall was raised to its present height of 54m by 1980, the dam now covers an area of 2,400ha at full capacity and stretches for up to 27km upstream.

Loskop April 2015 (28)

The reserve around the dam, originally proclaimed in the 1950’s, has since considerably increased in size, covering 22,850ha at present. Thanks to the exceptionally varied geology and hilly topography (ranging between 990 and 1,450m above sea level), and due to the fact that the reserve is located at the transition between the highveld grassland and lower lying bushveld biomes, a total of 1016 plant species have already been identified within its borders, unfortunately including a couple of species of exotic intruders which the reserve staff are continuously trying to eradicate. No less than 65 rare and threatened plant species occur here, including the only viable population of the Middelburg Cycad (Encephalartos middelburgensis). This amazing diversity of habitats and fodder supports almost 70 mammalian species (including leopard, brown hyena, white rhinoceros, hippopotamus, buffalo, giraffe, plains zebra, warthog, sable antelope, tsessebe, eland, kudu, nyala, bushbuck, reedbuck and oribi). Unfortunately chemical pollution entering the dam from upstream has had a devastating effect on the population of nile crocodiles, one of 42 reptile species that have been recorded at Loskop. The 367 bird species that call Loskop home include a successfully reintroduced population of red-billed oxpeckers, and other rare species like the ground hornbill, bald ibis and blue crane. The inventory of species found in this scenic reserve also includes 19 kinds of amphibians, 42 fish species (three of which introduced aliens) and 49 spider genera.

Loskop Dam Nature Reserve is managed by the Mpumalanga Parks and Tourism Agency, ably assisted by a volunteer organisation, the Friends of Loskop, who are very involved in the day-to-day running of the reserve, assisting with environmental education for visiting school groups, and projects involving the study, breeding and protection of endangered species that occur naturally within the reserve, such as the ground hornbill, black-footed cat and white rhino.

Loskop April 2015 (27)

We spent a morning exploring the reserve roads on the North-Western shore of the Dam, and found adequate facilities for day visitors in the form of two photographic hides and a well-kept picnic site with neat ablutions. We did not have any exceptional wildlife encounters (perhaps the overcast, drizzly weather and thick vegetation at the end of the rainy season was to blame), but the inspiring scenery more than made up for that. The limited road network is rough gravel, with some erosion damage and loose rocks in places, but most of the routes (with the exception of the Langeberg loop) can be carefully negotiated in a normal sedan. The direct distance between the gate and picnic site is approximately 18km, and you’ll need at least three to four hours to explore this section of the reserve in your own vehicle.

The very popular Forever Resort Loskop Dam offers accommodation, a huge camping area, shop, restaurant, several hot and cold swimming pools, sporting facilities, designated areas for fishing from the shoreline, boat launching facilities, and guided boat trips on the dam. Due to the risk of encountering hippos and crocodiles in the water, swimming and water-skiing is not permitted. Forever Resorts Loskop Dam hosts several fishing competitions every year, and in April annually the very popular 50km Loskop Ultra-Marathon, 21km Loskop Wild Challenge and Loskop Rhino Family Fun Run.

The resort’s beautifully kept gardens are a joy to explore, with beautiful flowers, interesting plants and fascinating wildlife within easy reach.

The wild figs scattered around the grounds are hives of activity, day or night.

Humans are not the only primates that find the resort at Loskop a choice destination, and guests would be well advised to ensure they keep the windows and doors of their tents or accommodation closed when not in attendance.

Forever Resort Loskop Dam lies on the North-Eastern shoreline of the dam, approximately 190km from Pretoria, easily accessible along the N11-route between the towns of Middelburg and Groblersdal. This was our base for the three nights we spent enjoying the reserve over Easter 2015, and from where we experienced the most glorious sunsets! The Loskop area holds many special memories for the de Wet family; and thanks to the long weekend we spent there together we’ve accumulated so many more!

Easter Sunday Sunset over Loskop Dam

Easter Sunday Sunset over Loskop Dam

The route from Pretoria to Loskop Dam (using Google Maps)

The route from Pretoria to Loskop Dam (using Google Maps)

 

Early Bird

Being out and about at first light is often richly rewarded in South Africa’s wild places, as was the case with this memorable encounter with a spotted hyena near Letaba Rest Camp, in  the Kruger National Park.

Early Bird

Early Bird” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge

 

Afloat

A yellow-billed duck creating a splash at the Rietvlei Nature Reserve in Pretoria

Afloat

Afloat” is the theme for WordPress’ Photo Challenge this week

Summer at Golden Gate

Our New Year’s visit to Golden Gate Highlands National Park marked the final stop on our three-week long bush holidays. For this final leg, we were joined by Marilize’s parents and my sister and brother-in law at Glen Reenen Rest Camp.

Glen Reenen, Golden Gate Highlands National Park, December 2014

Glen Reenen, Golden Gate Highlands National Park, December 2014

This Park may have been proclaimed originally to safeguard the awesome mountain scenery, but the hills and valleys are also home to a pleasing variety of birds and animals. We found most of the game concentrated towards the east of the Park, around the Basotho Cultural Village.

Golden Gate’s magnificent scenery and hidden jewels are best enjoyed along the many walking trails traversing the area. Have a look at the posts we dedicated to the Brandwag, Echo Ravine and Mushroom Rocks walks, three shorter hikes that are ideal introductions to this mountain ecosystem.

Golden Gate Highlands National Park was another highlight of the trip and a perfect setting to conclude a wonderful holiday. Quality time spent with dear family saw us home in good spirits and strength for the year that lay in wait. And just to be sure the Park is still as beautiful as we remember it, we’ll return soon enough. We simply can’t stay away from a place this magical.

 

We didn’t think three weeks in the bush would fly past as quickly as it did. We started of with two nights at Chelmsford Nature Reserve, then three nights at Ithala Game Reserve, three nights at uMkhuze Game Reserve, three nights at Lake Saint Lucia, five nights in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, one night at Midmar Dam, and finally four nights at Golden Gate Highlands National Park. By the time we reached home back in Pretoria again, we had covered a distance of 4022km between and in some of our favourite South African wild places. An epic December bush holiday indeed.

Dec14 Bush Trip

Our route between 13 December 2014 and 3 January 2015 (map drawn from Google Maps)

 

 

 

 

Orange

This week’s WordPress Photo Challenge theme, Orange, seems the perfect excuse to show off another glorious Kruger Park sunrise!

Kruger sunrise (1)

Summer at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi

Over the last couple of weeks we’ve shared with you several exciting sightings we enjoyed at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, during our December holidays in the bush. Time to wrap up that part of our trip now.

We left the cheese farm near Mtubatuba very early in the morning of the 24th of December, and made it to the Memorial Gate just in time for it opening at 05:00AM (it’s a drive of about 75km only). We used Memorial Gate so that we could explore the Hluhluwe-section of the reserve on our way south to Mpila Camp, where we could check in 14:00 in the afternoon.

Mpila is a favourite camp of ours. It is unfenced, except for a single strand of electric wire strung high enough to only keep out elephants and giraffes. Other wildlife, including large predators, regularly roam among the accommodation units. Visitors should keep a special eye open for raids by vervet monkeys during the day, and for hyenas at night while preparing their evening meals on the barbeque fires.

That afternoon, we went for a quick drive and had some fun with a cute white rhino calf. Hluhluwe-Imfolozi is renowned as a rhinoceros haven, and we pray that the hard work and dedication of the rangers protecting them against a terrible onslaught from armed poachers will not be in vain.

When we made our December 2014 plans a year before, we specifically wanted to spend Christmas at Mpila. A special day at a special place. We set out for a quick drive on a glorious morning, then went back to camp to prepare and enjoy Christmas lunch. In the afternoon the Park was inundated by a quick cloud burst, luckily the gravel roads are in good condition and we could continue to explore the Park soon after.

Boxing Day brought us our memorable encounter with lions in trees, but Hluhluwe-Imfolozi has much more to offer and our sightings this day was particularly varied. Our day ended with our best ever sighting of a wild African Rock Python, almost as long as the road was wide!

Every day at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi brings something special and exciting, and the 27th of December was no different. Our day started with a thrilling wild dog pack on the hunt, but that wasn’t where it ended!

Our last full day at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park seemed to belong to the elephants, with a number of really close-up encounters, but we also had a good laugh at a hyena that bit off more than she could chew.

All too soon our five night stay at Mpila came to an end. We had collected so many memories, and can’t wait to return. Driving to Nyalazi Gate we tried to postpone our departure as long as we could, even spending half-an-hour looking for a distant pride of lions reported by fellow spotters in the kznsightings group (a group set up so that visitors to the game reserves in Kwazulu-Natal can share what they find while exploring with other visitors).

We found the lions and then departed for Midmar in the KZN Midlands.