Tag Archives: travel

Satara Summer 2021 – Gangly Giraffes

Giraffes probably need no introduction, even for those who have never laid eyes on a living one before. No matter our familiarity with them, their unique features always ensure that they get the attention they deserve when we see them, and thankfully our December 2021 visit to the Satara area of the Kruger National Park delivered many wonderful encounters with the Camelhorse (direct translation of their Afrikaans name, Kameelperd).

That long face and extra long tongue can make for some comical expressions!

Giraffes might generally be regarding as the laid-back Hippies of Africa’s wild places, but bulls do get into heated arguments when it comes to their hierarchy and mating rights and it is not unheard of for a well-placed swing to knock over (or out!) one of the combatants. We had ring-side seats for this fight just south of Satara on the 14th of December.

They might be walking off, but the fight between these two giraffes is not over!

They’d even be at it on Christmas Day – these bulls were having it out near Nwanetsi on the 25th of December.

To conclude this post, the iconic shot of a giraffe silhouetted against the colours of an African sunrise.

Satara Summer 2021 – Dazzling Zebras

You’d be hard pressed to find more photogenic animals in Africa than zebras, and they’re not boring to watch either. This is just a few of the photographs of Plains Zebras that Joubert and I collected during our December 2021 visit to the Kruger National Park.

Satara Summer 2021 – Ratel on the Rampage

We had just retired into our bungalow at Satara Rest Camp on the night of 19 December 2021 when there was an almighty noise of rubbish crashing to the floor outside our unit. Now, it is well known that there are Honey Badgers, aka Ratels, in Satara and so I immediately knew who the culprit was. However, because we know they are there I thought that putting the rubbish bin, with a few kitchen scraps and glass and plastic bottles inside, up high on the narrow kitchenette counter would be an effective measure to prevent any nocturnal raids. This Badger was much more clever than I thought!!! He easily pulled out the three kitchen drawers containing the cooking and eating utensils and used these as a stepladder to get on top of the counter. As I opened the Bungalow door Mr. Ratel scampered away with his chosen prize clenched in his jaws, to enjoy at leisure underneath our vehicle. Now, only those with a death wish would dare tangle with a Honey Badger, so I’d gladly retrieve the empty tub of cream cheese after he’s licked it clean…

While the Badger was enjoying his morsel, we quickly deposited the remaining scraps and bottles in one of the receptacles dotted through the camp, and then set up the camera traps to capture the inevitable return of the marauder. We pushed a chair against his “ladder” as we feared the drawers wouldn’t hold for long under the Ratel’s weight. We then returned the, now empty, rubbish bin atop the counter and went back to bed. The muddy paw prints all over the counter could wait till morning… He probably smelled that the rubbish bin was empty and didn’t try to get to the top again. Our lesson learned, we didn’t leave the rubbish bin outside overnight again.

Satara Summer 2021 – Primate Romps

Every visitor to a game reserve in South Africa knows the “ooh’s” and “aaah’s” that are elicited during an encounter with the continent’s wild primates. These close cousins of ours are always a joy to watch, even if they can be quite naughty (especially when they’ve learned that humans equal feeding opportunities, so please don’t feed them). We were delighted to see some very large troops of Chacma Baboons around Satara during our visit in December 2021.

This of course presented wonderful opportunities to enjoy all their antics, and often from very close up!

The way they care for their babies is probably one of the most endearing characteristics about Chacma Baboons, even if the babies will struggle to win the baby photo competition at the local pharmacy…

Speaking about mothers and babies immediately brings to mind this loving mother Vervet Monkey and her young baby that we saw near Satara on the S100.

Of course, this is a very different side of the Vervet’s character from the pestering we witnessed them dish out to a pair of Water Thick-knees!

 

Satara Summer 2021 – King Agama of Circle E

In the middle of Satara’s E-circle of bungalows lies a heap of tree stumps; the remains of a long dead Marula tree that has finally collapsed and been cut into sizable chunks by the camp gardeners. But a fierce dragon (actually a male Southern Tree Agama) has taken possession of the ruins, claiming it as his castle.

Here’s a photo of the pretty lady he was hoping to attract to his castle…

Female Southern Tree Agama (photo by Joubert)

(Incidentally, this is the 1,500th post published on de Wets Wild!)

Satara Summer 2021 – Vervets versus Dikkoppe

Mazithi Dam is a man-made watering hole 10km north of Tshokwane Picnic Site in the Kruger National Park. It is a magnet for wildlife and there is always something of interest to see there. When we arrived at Mazithi around 2pm on the 19th of December, a troop of Vervet Monkeys had just raided the nest of a pair of Water Dikkoppe, aka Water Thick-knees. The birds and primates were in a tense standoff at the water’s edge with the monkeys mostly having the upper hand, although the birds put up a very brave show.

 

Satara Summer 2021 – Bateleur Lunch

Bateleurs are beautiful eagles, and always attract attention from visitors to our Kruger National Park, one of their few remaining strongholds in South Africa. Being able to watch this one gulp down a Natal Spurfowl – feathers and all – that it had killed next to the road leading to Nwanetsi from Satara is another lasting memory from our visit to Kruger Park in December 2021.

Satara Summer 2021 – African Wild Dogs

We were still very fresh into our latest visit to the Satara area of the Kruger National Park when, on the 14th December, we came across a pack of seven African Wild Dogs, or Painted Wolves, near the Nsemani Dam on the H7 road leading to Orpen. To find such rare animals so early into our Kruger visit really was a good omen of things to come, and we were very excited even with the dogs resting so sedately in the heat of the late afternoon.

In the early morning of the 30th December we had just finished breakfast at the Muzandzeni Picnic Spot when the attendant alerted us to a pack of Wild Dogs rapidly approaching. We were just in time to see 10 of them run past the picnic spot and into the marshy area covered by long grass next to it. They paused a while on a little rise and then continued running, clearly seriously on the hunt. We decided to try and find them again on one of the roads leading from Muzandzeni.

As we left Muzandzeni we found three Spotted Hyenas following behind the Wild Dogs, no doubt hoping to score an easy meal.

First we tried turning south on the S36, but quickly realised that it leads away from the direction we last saw the dogs heading into, so we turned around. The S126 Sweni River Road might be the better option. Just as we started thinking following the S126 might be a lost cause too, we saw a hyena loping along. And then, just around the next corner, two dogs in the road – we found them again! Pretty soon all ten dogs were running in the road ahead of us, with the hyenas following some distance behind and just visible in the rear view mirrors every now and then. We followed the dogs for almost 10 kilometers, over the course of an hour-and-a-half, while they hunted. Every now and then they’d pause, take a scent trail leading into the long grass to disappear from view, only to return to the road a minute or two later. The dogs, with us in tow, decided against taking on a big warthog boar and then actually passed an impala ram standing in the long grass, not any the wiser how close he was to death. Just short of the Welverdiend waterhole however the dogs must have picked up a very promising lead as they left the road a final time, ears pulled back and bodies kept low to the ground. We waited around for several minutes, then searched up and down the road for a few kilometers either side of where we last saw them, but they didn’t re-appear. This probably means that they were successful at their kill.

Our plan for the morning of 31st December was a slow drive to a picnic breakfast at N’wanetsi. Our meal plans were slightly delayed however when we found another pack of Wild Dogs – nine animals – not 200m from the picnic spot! The dogs had a fresh kill and most were still feeding deep in a bush and not very clear to the eye. We stayed a few minutes and then moved to the picnic spot for a much needed comfort break and a quick bite to eat. When we returned to the dogs the whole pack had moved into the open and treated us to wonderful views.

The African Wild Dog is endangered, not only in South Africa but across the whole continent, where its range has been drastically diminished. South Africa is home to approximately 500 of these beautiful animals, about half of which live in Kruger National Park and adjacent reserves. For us to have seen three different packs during our 3 week visit to the Park was extremely lucky! The Endangered Wildlife Trust is again calling on citizen scientists to submit photos of Wild Dogs (and Cheetahs) taken during visits to the Kruger Park to their 7th Wild Dog Census, and Joubert and I will definitely be making our contributions.

Dwarf Bittern

We’ve been bird-watching for quite a while now, and finding a new species for our list does not happen all that often anymore. The 15th of December therefore was a red letter day for us when we encountered this Dwarf Bittern between Lower Sabie and Skukuza in the Kruger National Park, taking our number of South African bird species seen to 588 (of roughly 973 ever recorded in this country).

Ixobrychus sturmii

The Dwarf Bittern is a small species of heron that is mostly nocturnal and found singly or in pairs. It generally occurs around seasonal and permanent water bodies surrounded by dense and emergent vegetation. They feed mainly on insects, crabs, frogs and small fish.

Dwarf Bitterns breed in periods of highest rainfall, often nesting in association with other kinds of heron. Their nests are flimsy platforms of twigs, built in a hurry by both partners. Clutches of 2-5 eggs are incubated for around 3 weeks by both parents. The chicks leave the nest before they’re 2 weeks old, although they can’t fly yet.

The Dwarf Bittern is an uncommon summer visitor to South Africa, with most records from Mpumalanga and Limpopo. It occurs in low densities over much of sub-Saharan Africa and the IUCN considers the Dwarf Bittern to be of least concern.

As luck would have it, just a few months later we found another Dwarf Bittern, this time on the Eastern Shores of Lake St. Lucia.

Dwarf Bittern

Satara Summer 2021 – Drama in the Olifants

Early into our recent visit to the Kruger National Park we were parked on the high bridge crossing the Olifants River, stretching our legs and admiring the views upstream and downstream.

At one point we peeked over the railings and noticed a Little Swift splashing in the murky, fast flowing water below. The Swifts breed beneath the bridge, and this one must have miscalculated a dive, ending up in the water. It seems such aeronautical miscalculations are relatively common with this species as we’ve found them marooned on the ground on more than one occasion – their short legs and long wings make it very hard for them to get airborne again.

We watched as the water quickly swept the little bird along. We could only hope that it was swept onto a sandbank before it became a snack for a crocodile, tigerfish, catfish or fish eagle, and that it would somehow manage to get back into the air.