Tag Archives: Autumn Adventure 2022

Autumn Adventure: Autumn Birding

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Whenever we’re out exploring South Africa’s wild places, bird-watching is one of the pastimes we most enjoy. In this regard we rate the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park very highly, as both these reserves have a wonderful combination of bird species on offer, several of which are unique to the area in a South African context. During our visit in March, we managed to identify 105 different species at uMkhuze Game Reserve and 89 species on the Eastern Shores of Lake St. Lucia (both part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park) and 104 species in the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park. These photographs feature just a few of them.

Acacia Pied Barbet
African Darter
African Harrier-Hawk
African Hoopoe
African Jacana (photo by Joubert)
African Marsh Harrier
African Pipit
Ashy Flycatcher
Barn Swallow
Bateleur
Bearded Scrub-Robin
Black-backed Puffback
Black-crowned Night Herons
Female Black Cuckooshrike
Black Flycatcher
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
Blue Waxbill
Brown Snake Eagle
Burchell’s Coucal
Chinspot Batis
Collared Sunbird
Common Waxbill
Crested Francolin
Crested Guineafowl
Crowned Hornbill
Dark-capped Bulbul (photo by Joubert)
Diederik Cuckoo
Dwarf Bittern
Emerald-spotted Wood Dove
European Bee-eater
European Nightjar
European Roller (photo by Joubert)
Familiar Chat
Fiery-necked Nightjar
Golden-breasted Bunting
Golden-tailed Woodpecker
Green-backed Camaroptera
Green-backed Heron (immature)
Green-winged Pytilia
Grey-headed Gull
Grey Heron
Grey Tit-Flycatcher
Grey Waxbill
Hadeda in flight – photo by Joubert
House Sparrow
Jacobin Cuckoo (dark morph)
Jameson’s Firefinch
Little Bee-eaters
Malachite Kingfisher
Martial Eagle
Mocking Cliff-Chat
Mountain Wagtail
Pied Wagtail
Olive Sunbird (photo by Joubert)
Pink-throated Twinspot
Purple-crested Turaco
Rattling Cisticola
Red-backed Shrike
Red-billed Oxpecker (photo by Joubert)
Reed Cormorant
Rudd’s Apalis
Rufous-winged Cisticola
Saddle-billed Stork in silhouette at sunrise
Sombre Greenbul
Speckled Mousebird
Spotted Eagle Owl (photo by Joubert)
Southern Fiscal
Squacco Heron
Southern Black Flycatcher
Thick-billed Weaver female
Village Weaver
White-backed Vulture
White-browed Scrub Robin
White-crested Helmetshrike
White-eared Barbet
White-faced Whistling Duck family
White-headed Vulture (photo by Joubert)
Wire-tailed Swallow
Woolly-necked Stork
Woodward’s Batis (photo by Joubert)
Yellow-breasted Apalis
Yellow-fronted Canary
Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird
Yellow-throated Bush Sparrow
Yellow-throated Longclaw
Tiny Zitting Cisticola with a massive tick on its head
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Autumn Adventure: Butterflies in abundance

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Whenever we get a chance to explore South Africa’s wild places I am amazed at the variety and number of butterflies that are on show. This certainly was the case again when we visited the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park in March this year.

African Veined White
African Clouded Yellow
African Common White
African Migrant
Ant-heap White
Ant-heap Whites
Ant-heap White
Banded Gold Tip
Banded Gold Tip
Brown Commodore, aka Brown Pansy
Brown Commodore, aka Brown Pansy
Brown-veined White
Buquet’s Vagrant
Clouded Mother-of-Pearl
Common Black-eye
Common Bush Brown
Common Bush Brown
Common Diadem
Common Dotted Border
Common Mother-of-Pearl
Dusky Acraea
Dusky Copper
Dwarf Blue – South Africa’s smallest butterfly
Green-banded Swallowtail
Female Mocker Swallowtail butterfly female
Natal Acraea
Natal Acraea butterfly
Novice butterfly (photo by Joubert)
Painted Lady
Painted Lady
Pearl Emperor
Pied Piper
Scarlet Tip butterfly
Small Orange Tip
Smokey Orange Tip
Soldier Pansy
Spotted Pentila
Sulphur Orange Tip
Sulphur Orange Tip
Sulphur Orange Tip
Tailed Black-eye Butterfly
Tailed Black-eye Butterfly
Veined Tip butterfly
Vine-leaf Vagrant
Vine-leaf Vagrant
Vine-leaf Vagrant
Zebra White
Zebra White

Autumn Adventure: Something Fishy

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You can’t really say that you’ve been to Cape Vidal in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park if you haven’t spent at least a little time exploring the rock pools there and at Mission Rocks at low tide.

Natal Rock Crab (photo by Joubert)
Natal Rock Crab (photo by Joubert)
Convict Surgeonfish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Small fish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Convict Surgeonfish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Little fish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Convict Surgeonfish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Blenny in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Little fish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Convict Surgeonfish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Crab in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Convict Surgeonfish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Convict Surgeonfish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal
Convict Surgeonfish in a rock pool at Cape Vidal

Seeing freshwater fish without casting a line is a little more tricky than peering into a rock pool, but the viewing platforms next to uMkhuze Game Reserve’s Nsumo Pan – and the pan’s clear water – makes it possible to see fish like these Red-breast Tilapia easily from above.

Redbreast Tilapia in Nsumo Pan
Redbreast Tilapia in Nsumo Pan
Redbreast Tilapia in Nsumo Pan
Redbreast Tilapia in Nsumo Pan

Autumn Adventure: Flirtatious Lion

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I can’t be sure of course, but I think this young lion we saw in March while visiting the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park was only this charming because he wanted us to hang around for breakfast…

Young male lion next to the road near the White Imfolozi River
Young male lion next to the road near the White Imfolozi River
What is he thinking about? (photo by Joubert)
Licking his lips now…
Young male lion, giving us the eye
“How you doin’?”

Autumn Adventure – uMkhuze’s Giant Carrion Flowers

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Now this is a plant that really grabs your attention when visiting the uMkhuze Game Reserve in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, especially if you have a chance to walk the grounds of the Mantuma Rest Camp where we stayed for 4 nights in March this year.

Stapelia gigantea

Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)
Giant Carrion Flower (Stapelia gigantea)

The Giant Carrion Flower is notable not only for the smell of its flowers, which really does smell like rotting meat (especially on a hot afternoon!), but also because it boasts the biggest flowers – up to 40cm across! – of any South African plant. These flowers can be borne at any time of year, though mainly in late summer and early autumn. Their succulent, green stems are small by comparison, growing around 25cm tall only. Probably not surprising, the flowers are pollinated by flies, and so convincing is the smell that flies often lie their eggs on the flower! The seedpod that develops from pollinated flowers carries lots of plumed seeds that are dispersed by the wind, but they can also be propagated vegetatively as the stems will easily re-root. Giant Carrion Flowers grow best in dry, hot areas and rocky outcrops.

Giant Carrion Flowers occur naturally in all the countries of Southern Africa (Angola, Zambia and Malawi southwards) and in all South Africa’s provinces. It is considered to be of least concern, but some wild populations are declining due to extensive collection for ornamental and medicinal use. In traditional medicine these plants are used to treat pain, constipation and bruising, and also as a magic charm against evil and lightning. They are popular and easy to keep in the garden or in pots, especially as it requires very little water.

Giant Carrion flowers in Mantuma Camp

Autumn Adventure – Elephants: Cape Vidal’s Highway Patrol

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Over the years we’ve visited Cape Vidal, in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, many times – our most recent visit was the twelfth time I had been there – but up until this latest visit we’ve only had one fleeting sighting of an Elephant there before. Seeing them so frequently this time around was therefore a real treat! It must be noted that the elephants roaming the shores of Lake St. Lucia have a reputation for cantankerous temperaments; this year January a family were lucky to escape without serious injury when a bull flipped their car on the main road leading to Cape Vidal, and so it goes without saying that we treat them with the utmost respect.

Soon after arriving through the Bhangazi Gate on the 23rd of March we took a detour along the Vlei Loop, where we had our first encounter with a herd of elephants emerging from a dense thicket into the road. Aside from one youngster who wanted to show off his menacing moves, this encounter went off calmly and without incident.

An elephant cow emerging from the dense vegetation (photo by Joubert)
Another elephant cow stepping out of the thicket and into the road (photo by Joubert)
Another elephant cow stepping out of the thicket and into the road (photo by Joubert)
Off the pair goes along the road (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull emerging from the forest (photo by Joubert)
The bull following the rest of the herd down the road (photo by Joubert)
Young elephant showing off (photo by Joubert)
Young elephant showing off (photo by Joubert)
Young elephant showing off (photo by Joubert)
Young elephant showing off (photo by Joubert)
Young elephant showing off (photo by Joubert)

Where the Vlei Loop rejoins the main road we found a lone bull on his way to the iZindondwe Pan, and we couldn’t believe our luck!

Elephant bull on his way to the pan for a drink (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull on his way to the pan for a drink
Elephant drinking from a seasonal pan

After the bull walked off from his drink we got underway ourselves again, only to find the herd of elephants now also at the junction with the Vlei Loop. They were still very calm, though the older cows were keeping a vigilant eye on us, and we could watch them at leisure from our Duster. We especially enjoyed a youngster having a good scratch on a road marker! Eventually the matriarch gave the signal and the entire herd set off in the direction of Mission Rocks.

Relaxed elephant cow on the road to Cape Vidal
Relaxed elephant cow on the road to Cape Vidal
Elephant calf having a good scratch
Young elephant having a good scratch
Elephant calf having a good scratch (photo by Joubert)
Elephant calf having a good scratch
Mother and calf at the side of the road
Matriarch (photo by Joubert)
The matriarch gives the signal and the herd gets on the move
Elephant herd on a stroll (photo by Joubert)

Well, we thought that it was the entire herd, but as we started rolling this frantic youngster came charging from the thick bush along the road. These “teenage” elephants can be real pranksters so there’s no telling whether he “ambushed” us or were really feeling lost having fallen behind the rest of his herd.

Young elephant showing off (photo by Joubert)
Young elephant showing off (photo by Joubert)
Young elephant showing off (photo by Joubert)
Young elephant showing off (photo by Joubert)

The next morning we were heading to St. Lucia town to stock up on groceries, and just after our picnic breakfast at Mission Rocks we found the herd blocking our way yet again. This time they were solidly laying claim to the road and we were not going to argue their right of way. Besides, elephants walking towards you always make better pictures than elephants walking away!

Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Lucia
Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Lucia (photo by Joubert)
Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Lucia (photo by Joubert)
Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Lucia (photo by Joubert)
Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Luciack (photo by Joubert)
Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Lucia
Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Lucia
Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Lucia (photo by Joubert)
Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Lucia (photo by Joubert)
Elephant roadblock between Cape Vidal and St. Lucia

Eventually the herd reversed us back all the way to the Mission Rocks turnoff, and we thought that was a splendid spot to get out of their way and watch the parade pass in front of us.

Elephant parade arriving at the junction to Mission Rocks (photo by Marilize)
Elephant parade arriving at the junction to Mission Rocks (photo by Marilize)
Elephant parade arriving at the junction to Mission Rocks (photo by Joubert)
Elephant parade passing at the junction to Mission Rocks
Elephant cow keeping the youngsters safe
Elephant parade passing at the junction to Mission Rock
Dancing elephant (photo by Joubert)
Elephant procession passing the turnoff to Mission Rocks (photo by Marilize)

What we didn’t know was that a portion of the herd decided to do some bundu-bashing and emerged from the forest immediately next to the spot we chose to watch their family members walk along the road. We very quickly had to start the car and get out of their way, because now THEIR way was blocked by US and they were not happy!

Elephant cow emerging from the forest to find us in her way (don’t worry, we moved away quickly!)(photo by Joubert)
Showing her disdain at our presence (photo by Joubert)
Showing her disdain at our presence (photo by Joubert)
Showing her disdain at our presence (photo by Joubert)
Showing her disdain at our presence (photo by Joubert)
Showing her disdain at our presence (photo by Joubert)

Once the road was clear ahead of us we could return to the junction. Looking right we could see the herd moving along in the direction of Cape Vidal, but as we turned left in the direction of Bhangazi Gate and St. Lucia town, we were stopped in our tracks again by two young stragglers chasing each other around.

The elephant parade passed and were now strolling along in the direction of Cape Vidal
Two young elephants playing in the road
Two young elephants playing in the road (photo by Joubert)
Two young elephants playing in the road (photo by Joubert)

Altogether we saw elephants 6 times during our 3 days on the eastern shores of Lake St. Lucia. We felt really lucky, and know that next time we visit we’re going to recall all these encounters every time we pass the same spots.

Elephant herd blocking the road…again!

Autumn Adventure – First encounter with elephants at uMkhuze

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While we’re on the subject of elephants; in four previous visits to the uMkhuze Game Reserve, an integral part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, we’ve never seen the reserve’s elephants, despite them numbering around a hundred animals. Finally that unlucky streak was broken on the 22nd of March this year during our fifth visit. We had been following the drive back to camp from Nsumo Pan, dodging droppings and broken branches on a wet road, when first the matriarch and then the whole herd emerged out of the thicket into the road ahead of us.

Matriarch of the uMkhuze Game Reserve elephant herd (photo by Joubert)
Younger members of the uMkhuze Game Reserve herd with their leader
Two youngsters playing (photo by Joubert)
Elephant Bull accompanying the herd

The whole herd were quite relaxed with our presence. The whole herd that is, except one youngster. He sneaked out of the thick vegetation like a cat on the prowl, keeping his head low as he came running towards us, only to stop with head held high and ears widely spread, doing his best to intimidate us. We tried not to laugh in his face though, because one day he will be enormous and he might remember us…

Playful Elephant youngster (photo by Joubert)
Playful Elephant youngster (photo by Joubert)
Playful Elephant youngster (photo by Joubert)
Playful Elephant youngster (photo by Joubert)
Playful Elephant youngster (photo by Joubert)

Autumn Adventure – You “musth” give way to this giant!

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Well, we’re back home in Pretoria after a wonderful two weeks exploring the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park. Lots of stories to tell you in the coming weeks about our trip, and we’re going to start with a sequence of photo’s from yesterday’s drive through the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park to Memorial Gate on our way home.

By 07:30 we had made our way to within 3 kilometers of Hilltop Camp when we found our way blocked by a big male elephant in musth. “Musth is a periodic condition in bull elephants characterized by highly aggressive behavior and accompanied by a large rise in reproductive hormones” (wikipedia). To top it all this bull had a broken tusk and a sore on his face – even more reason for him to be agitated! Predictably this bull quickly showed us who rules in Hluhluwe – most of the following images were taken by Joubert as I had to concentrate on reversing downhill at speed for much of the half hour that followed.

Big elephant bull blocking the road and taking a dustbath
He has had enough of us! (photo by Joubert)
He has had enough of us! (photo by Joubert)
He has had enough of us! (photo by Joubert)
He has had enough of us! (photo by Joubert)
He has had enough of us! (photo by Joubert)
He has had enough of us! (photo by Joubert)
He has had enough of us! (photo by Joubert)
He has had enough of us! (photo by Joubert)
He has had enough of us! (photo by Joubert)

A few minutes into the encounter a ranger arrived on the scene. Obviously he has much more experience in dealing with irate bull elephants and I would strongly advise against any visitors trying to play chicken with an elephant in such a mood like this ranger did…

Ranger playing chicken with a big elephant bull
Ranger playing chicken with a big elephant bull(photo by Joubert)
Ranger playing chicken with a big elephant bull
Ranger playing chicken with a big elephant bull
Ranger playing chicken with a big elephant bull(photo by Joubert)
Ranger playing chicken with a big elephant bull

With the ranger gone, the bull turned his attention to us again. Eventually he pushed us back about 1.5km to the start of the Mansiya Loop Road, offering us an opportunity to escape. Whether he chose to keep walking along the tar road, or exit onto the Loop road, we’d have an opportunity to pass.

Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)
Elephant bull in musth dictating the way we should go (photo by Joubert)

The bull chose to stay on the tar road, so we used to Loop Road to get past him. As we rejoined the main road we could still see him slowly making his way up the hill.

Elephant bull in musth walking along the main road through Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park

For most of the rest of the way to Hilltop Camp his path of destruction could be seen as parts of trees and bushes littered the roadway.

Big branch lying across the road in the elephant’s wake

Marilize got this shot of Joubert taking pictures of the irate elephant bull with her cellphone.

Autumn Adventure – 1 April 2022

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Sadly our last full day exploring the wilds of the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park. Tomorrow we have only the stretch of road between Mpila and Memorial Gate left to savour of this amazing place before we drive back to Pretoria.

Warthog close-up (photo by Joubert)
White Rhino
Zebra huddle (photo by Joubert)
Warthogs greeting at the mud spa
Impala rams (photo by Joubert)
Plains Zebra (photo by Joubert)
Buffalo herd
Black Rhino (photo by Joubert)
Elephant cow
Elephants crossing the Black Umfolozi
Giraffe
Mauritian Tomb Bat (photo by Joubert)
Burchell’s Coucal

Autumn Adventure – Imfolozi 31 March 2022

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We’re still having a wonderful time here in the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park and collecting lots and lots of photographs of beautiful animals and beautiful scenery.

Golden sunrise over Imfolozi (photo by Joubert)
Young male lion, giving us the eye
White Rhino (photo by Joubert)
Young Kudu bull
Plains Zebra playing in the mud
Buffalo
Cheetah
Nyala bull (photo by Joubert)
Female Black Cuckooshrike
Wire-tailed Swallow
Elephant bull walking along the main road
Baboons
Mocking Cliff-Chat
Black Rhino