Category Archives: Mpumalanga Province

Our experiences in the reserves of Mpumalanga, South Africa

Satara Summer 2021 – In Awe Of Thunderstorms

Ever since I can remember I’ve been fascinated by the power of our African thunderstorms. And nowhere can these awesome powers of nature be appreciated more than out in South Africa’s wild places, where the view is big and wide and unpolluted by human additions to the landscape. Our trip to the Kruger National Park in December 2021 was punctuated by several of these storms as many parts of South Africa is currently experiencing a much better rainy season than we’ve had in several years.

Storm passing over the plains of Satara, 13 December 2021

Storm passing over the plains of Satara, 16 December 2021

Thunderstorm brewing over the plains of Satara, 23 December 2021

Storm passing over the plains of Satara, 26 December 2021

There is however one storm that stands out above all others in our memories. In the afternoon of the 27th of December we were travelling along the S126 Sweni Road south of Satara, when dark clouds started appearing in our rearview mirrors as a thunderstorm approached from the west. We made it back to the main tarred road just in time before the first big drops started to fall. We had a few minutes to look on in awe as the dark clouds rolled up, lightning striking almost continuously, before the full might of the rain driven by a very strong wind passed over us. At times it was impossible for the car’s wipers to keep up with the deluge. We were almost back at Satara by the time the storm had passed over, heading in the direction of Nwanetsi.

Thunderstorm brewing over the central plains of Kruger Park, 27 December 2021

Thunderstorm raging over the central plains of Kruger Park, 27 December 2021

Satara Summer 2021 – The Lie Of The Land

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While there’s no denying that the diversity and numbers of animal life of all descriptions steal the show in South Africa’s Kruger National Park, none of that would have been there if it wasn’t for the healthy Lowveld ecosystem sustaining it all. We were reminded again of this fact while exploring the Satara area of the Park during December 2021. From delicate plants to vast plains stretching as far as the eye can see, all of it forms an important piece in a wonderfully created and intricate jigsaw.

There’s a good reason why the opening sequence of Disney’s “The Lion King” features a rising sun. The symbolism aside, there’s very few things on this planet more beautiful or inspiring than an African sunrise. I am biased, I know.

Sunrise over the plains north of Satara

Satara sunrise

Sunrise on the S90 towards Olifants, 20 December 2021

Satara sunrise (29 December 2021)

Sunrise on the H6 towards Nwanetsi (27 December 2021)

First sunrise of 2022

Orange clouds over Satara at sunset on the 28th of December 2021

The central sections of the Kruger National Park is characterised by relatively flat plains stretching to the horizon and dotted with Marula, Knobthorn and Leadwood trees, interspersed with only a few rocky outcrops.

Central Kruger Scenery

Rocky outcrop

Satara plains

A seasonal pan on the plains west of Satara

Long dead Marula Tree

Long dead Leadwood Tree

Through these open plains flow a number of small streams, most of which have their source right here in the Park and are thus devoid of any human pollution and all eventually forming part of the greater Olifants and Nkomati River systems flowing towards the Indian Ocean – these are the arteries carrying the lifeblood of the Lowveld.

Central Kruger Scenery

Olifants River

The Nwanetsi Spruit from the viewsite at Nwanetsi Picnic Spot, with the foothills of the Lebombo Range in the background

The Nwanetsi Spruit from the viewsite at Nwanetsi Picnic Spot

Hlanganini Spruit just outside Letaba

Olifants River

Piet Grobler Dam on the Timbavati River

Waterhole on the Sweni Spruit at the Sweni Hide

The Mavumbye stream crossing on the S90

Crossing the Mavumbye stream on the S41

Crossing a small stream between Letaba and Olifants

With sunlight, soil and water available the plants and fungi thrive in greater diversity than I can even comprehend.

Interesting large fungus emerging from inside the ground

Enormous fungus growing on a lawn in Satara

White Water Lily

Weeping Bride’s Bush

Lebombo Euphorbia growing on a rocky ridge along the Nwanetsi Spruit

Common Tree Euphorbia

Possibly a species of Solanum growing on the grassy plains around Satara

Reminiscent of Bell Flowers, these unidentified beauties grow wild on the grassy plains around Satara

A species of wild Foxglove growing on the open plains east of Satara

Tiny purplish flowers adorning a rocky outcrop near Olifants

Interesting fruit belonging to a yet-to-be-identified climber

Ground Lily

Knob Thorn

Marula Tree (photograph by Joubert)

Pride of De Kaap

Weeping Wattle blooms

What a privilege for us humans to be able to get a glimpse into this fascinating world in a place like the Kruger National Park.

A group of hikers and their ranger-guides encounter a small herd of elephant soon after starting their morning walk along the Sweni

Satara Summer 2021 – Gangly Giraffes

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Giraffes probably need no introduction, even for those who have never laid eyes on a living one before. No matter our familiarity with them, their unique features always ensure that they get the attention they deserve when we see them, and thankfully our December 2021 visit to the Satara area of the Kruger National Park delivered many wonderful encounters with the Camelhorse (direct translation of their Afrikaans name, Kameelperd).

Giraffe standing tall (photo by Joubert)

Giraffe portait

Long-legged Giraffe bull

Curious giraffe babies

Newborn Giraffe

Giraffe

Giraffe calf lying down in the tall grass near Nhlanguleni

Tall trio – Giraffes at Satara

Giraffe

Giraffe bull

Giraffes seeking shade in the mid-day heat near Nwanetsi

Resting Giraffe

Giraffe bull smelling a newborn calf

Towering Giraffe roadblock on the way to Tshokwane

That long face and extra long tongue can make for some comical expressions!

Cheeky Giraffe (photo by Joubert)

Giraffes might generally be regarding as the laid-back Hippies of Africa’s wild places, but bulls do get into heated arguments when it comes to their hierarchy and mating rights and it is not unheard of for a well-placed swing to knock over (or out!) one of the combatants. We had ring-side seats for this fight just south of Satara on the 14th of December.

Fighting Giraffe Bulls

Fighting Giraffe Bulls (photo by Joubert)

Fighting Giraffe Bulls

They might be walking off, but the fight between these two giraffes is not over!

They’d even be at it on Christmas Day – these bulls were having it out near Nwanetsi on the 25th of December.

Giraffes fighting on Christmas Day 2021

Giraffes fighting on Christmas Day 2021 (photo by Joubert)

Giraffes fighting on Christmas Day 2021

Giraffes fighting on Christmas Day 2021 (photo by Joubert)

Giraffes fighting on Christmas Day 2021

Giraffes fighting on Christmas Day 2021 (photo by Joubert)

To conclude this post, the iconic shot of a giraffe silhouetted against the colours of an African sunrise.

Satara Summer 2021 – Dazzling Zebras

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You’d be hard pressed to find more photogenic animals in Africa than zebras, and they’re not boring to watch either. This is just a few of the photographs of Plains Zebras that Joubert and I collected during our December 2021 visit to the Kruger National Park.

Plains Zebra crossing (… the road) (photo by Joubert)

Other grazing animals often associate with Plains Zebras

Zebra close-up (photo by Joubert)

Plains Zebras putting their heads together (photo by Joubert)

Plains Zebra portrait

Plains Zebra mare and foal

Plains Zebra foals are so fluffy!

Zebra foal on spindly legs

Playful zebra foal (photo by Joubert)

Playful zebra foal

Proud Plains Zebra stallion

Plains Zebras often lie on their sides to sleep while others of the herd keep watch

Plains Zebra foal

Plains Zebra and Blue Wildebeest

Satara Summer 2021 – Ratel on the Rampage

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We had just retired into our bungalow at Satara Rest Camp on the night of 19 December 2021 when there was an almighty noise of rubbish crashing to the floor outside our unit. Now, it is well known that there are Honey Badgers, aka Ratels, in Satara and so I immediately knew who the culprit was. However, because we know they are there I thought that putting the rubbish bin, with a few kitchen scraps and glass and plastic bottles inside, up high on the narrow kitchenette counter would be an effective measure to prevent any nocturnal raids. This Badger was much more clever than I thought!!! He easily pulled out the three kitchen drawers containing the cooking and eating utensils and used these as a stepladder to get on top of the counter. As I opened the Bungalow door Mr. Ratel scampered away with his chosen prize clenched in his jaws, to enjoy at leisure underneath our vehicle. Now, only those with a death wish would dare tangle with a Honey Badger, so I’d gladly retrieve the empty tub of cream cheese after he’s licked it clean…

While the Badger was enjoying his morsel, we quickly deposited the remaining scraps and bottles in one of the receptacles dotted through the camp, and then set up the camera traps to capture the inevitable return of the marauder. We pushed a chair against his “ladder” as we feared the drawers wouldn’t hold for long under the Ratel’s weight. We then returned the, now empty, rubbish bin atop the counter and went back to bed. The muddy paw prints all over the counter could wait till morning… He probably smelled that the rubbish bin was empty and didn’t try to get to the top again. Our lesson learned, we didn’t leave the rubbish bin outside overnight again.

Honey Badger approaching Bungalow 50 at Satara

Honey Badger on the stoep of Bungalow 50 at Satara

Satara Summer 2021 – Primate Romps

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Every visitor to a game reserve in South Africa knows the “ooh’s” and “aaah’s” that are elicited during an encounter with the continent’s wild primates. These close cousins of ours are always a joy to watch, even if they can be quite naughty (especially when they’ve learned that humans equal feeding opportunities, so please don’t feed them). We were delighted to see some very large troops of Chacma Baboons around Satara during our visit in December 2021.

Baoon troop south of Satara (photo by Joubert)

Baboon troop on the move at Ngotso

This of course presented wonderful opportunities to enjoy all their antics, and often from very close up!

Baboon gymnast

Baboon portrait (photo by Joubert)

Female Chacma Baboon slowly waking up

Baboon youngster

Big male Baboon passing in a hurry (photo by Joubert)

Baboon sentry at his post

A precarious perch (photo by Joubert)

The concentration on this Baboon’s face as he struggled to get the elephant dung off his fingers!

The hand of a big male Chacma Baboon

The way they care for their babies is probably one of the most endearing characteristics about Chacma Baboons, even if the babies will struggle to win the baby photo competition at the local pharmacy…

Wet Baboon piggy-back (photo by Joubert)

Baboon family on the move

Chacma Baboon mother and baby

Baboon baby with a thirst for milk

Thank goodness mom’s back is higher than the wet grass!

Speaking about mothers and babies immediately brings to mind this loving mother Vervet Monkey and her young baby that we saw near Satara on the S100.

Motherly affection in Vervet Monkeys

Of course, this is a very different side of the Vervet’s character from the pestering we witnessed them dish out to a pair of Water Thick-knees!

Satara Summer 2021 – King Agama of Circle E

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In the middle of Satara’s E-circle of bungalows lies a heap of tree stumps; the remains of a long dead Marula tree that has finally collapsed and been cut into sizable chunks by the camp gardeners. But a fierce dragon (actually a male Southern Tree Agama) has taken possession of the ruins, claiming it as his castle.

Male Tree Agama in breeding colours in Satara Rest Camp

Male Tree Agama in breeding colours in Satara Rest Camp (photo by Joubert)

Here’s a photo of the pretty lady he was hoping to attract to his castle…

Female Southern Tree Agama (photo by Joubert)

(Incidentally, this is the 1,500th post published on de Wets Wild!)

Satara Summer 2021 – Wild Parasol Flowers

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This summer the gardens in Satara were alive with the beautiful blooms of the Wild Parasol Flower bushes and the insects they attract.

Wild Parasol Flower bush in Satara

Wild Parasol Flower bloom

Wild Parasol Flower blooms

Wild Parasol Flower bloom

Wild Parasol Flower blooms

Carpenter Bee on Wild Parasol Flower bush

Wild Parasol Flower bloom

Karomia speciosa

The Wild Parasol Flower is a shrub or small tree growing up to 6m tall, and usually found on rocky mountain slopes and along rivers in the bushveld regions of extreme northern Kwazulu-Natal, eastern Mpumalanga, and Eswatini. They are deciduous and carry the characteristic bi-coloured flowers from November to April. This plant is a great addition to the summer garden, but no other or traditional uses are known.

Satara Summer 2021 – Vervets versus Dikkoppe

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Mazithi Dam is a man-made watering hole 10km north of Tshokwane Picnic Site in the Kruger National Park. It is a magnet for wildlife and there is always something of interest to see there. When we arrived at Mazithi around 2pm on the 19th of December, a troop of Vervet Monkeys had just raided the nest of a pair of Water Dikkoppe, aka Water Thick-knees. The birds and primates were in a tense standoff at the water’s edge with the monkeys mostly having the upper hand, although the birds put up a very brave show.

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam. In the top right-hand corner of this image you can see some of the troop snacking on the Dikkop eggs.

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam. This monkey is licking remains from an eggshell.

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam (photo by Joubert)

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam (photo by Joubert)

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam (photo by Joubert)

Standoff between Vervet Monkeys and Water Dikkoppe (Water Thick-knees) at Mazithi Dam

Satara Summer 2021 – Bateleur Lunch

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Bateleurs are beautiful eagles, and always attract attention from visitors to our Kruger National Park, one of their few remaining strongholds in South Africa. Being able to watch this one gulp down a Natal Spurfowl – feathers and all – that it had killed next to the road leading to Nwanetsi from Satara is another lasting memory from our visit to Kruger Park in December 2021.