Category Archives: Memorable sightings

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Verreaux’s Eagle Nest in Mapungubwe

On a sheer rock face in the Mapungubwe National Park, we found a pair of Verreaux’s Eagles attending to their chick at their nest. So large was the nest that we seldom got even a glimpse of the fluffy white chick, but it was wonderful nevertheless to see the majestic adults coming and going.

This cliff in the Mapungubwe National Park is home to a family of Verreaux’s Eagles

Adult Verreaux’s Eagle keeping an eye on its nest and chick from a distance

Verreaux’s Eagles at their nest against a cliff in Mapungubwe National Park

Adult Verreaux’s Eagle departing from the nest

Verreaux’s EaAdult Verreaux’s Eagle departing from the nestgle

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Mapungubwe’s Treetop Walk

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One of the real treats of a visit to Mapungubwe National Park is the Treetop Walk through the riverine forest on the South African bank of the Limpopo River (Botswana is on the opposite side). Sadly the length of the elevated boardwalk was trimmed significantly by recent floods, but it still offers a wonderful glimpse into life in the tree canopy and an amazing opportunity to watch elephants from above if you are lucky to be on the treetop walk when a herd moves through on their way to the water.

Mapungubwe’s Treetop Walk on the bank of the Limpopo River

Lazy Limpopo River in the early morning

Lazy Limpopo River in the afternoon

Elephants at the Treetop Walk (photo by Joubert)

Elephants at the Treetop Walk

Limpopo Ramble 2022: The Land of the Giants

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In the Mapungubwe National Park, three aspects are truly iconic of this landscape: Elephants, baobabs, and rocky hills and cliffs. It’s as if the entire atmosphere of the Park hinges on these key natural attributes.

Mapungubwe, situated as it is at the place where the borders of South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe meet, has a high population of elephants and especially so when the dry season concentrate the behemoths along the banks of the Limpopo River. From families of cows and tiny calves to enormous bulls can all be expected along any of the roads traversing the Park, and sometimes waiting for these charismatic animals to clear the way can be a very entertaining delay. At other times, the dense mopane veld may lead to you inadvertently finding yourself in the personal space of one of the giants and they might react with more than a little agitation!

Angry elephant (photo by Joubert)

Elephant cow with her herd (photo by Joubert)

Elephant cow and calf crossing the road (photo by Joubert)

Elephant cow

Young elephant bulls testing their mettle

Adult elephant bull

Big elephant bull reaching for tasty leaves

Elephant youngster (photo by Joubert)

Fully grown elephant bull (photo by Joubert)

Most impressive elephant bull foraging along the Limpopo (photo by Joubert)

Young elephant bull scaling a rocky outcrop

Elephant cow

Fully grown elephant bull (photo by Joubert)

The Elephants even move through Mapungubwe’s unfenced main camp Leokwe, as we experienced one evening upon arriving at out cottage.

Elephants in Leokwe (photo by Joubert)

Baobabs are the undisputable rulers of Mapungubwe’s plant kingdom. With this part of the world now firmly in Winter’s grip, the trees are mostly leafless, lending more credence to the myth that the Creator tossed them to earth, planting them upside down. Elephants have a paticular liking for the pulpy wood of the baobab, and many of Mapungubwe’s trees show damage as a result, leading to the Park authorities protecting some prime specimens by using wire as wrapping around their trunks (those of the trees, not those of the elephants 😉 )

Baobab showing elephant damage

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Beautiful Baobab

Look carefully to notice the wire wrapped around this Baobab’s trunk to prevent further elephant damage

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Baobab atop one of Mapungubwe’s hills

An enormous Baobab towering above the plains

One of Mapungubwe’s roads hugging a Baobab

Young Baobab

Mapungubwe Baobabs

An enormous Baobab towering above the mopane

Mapungubwe Baobab

Mapungubwe Baobabs

An enormous Baobab towering above the plains

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Baobabs on a hillside with dark clouds looming

A huge Baobab growing in the tiniest of spots among the rocks

A most impressive Baobab!

On the largest scale of all, it is the rocky, hilly landscapes that really forms the basis of Mapungubwe’s ancient atmosphere. The hills are composed mainly of dolerite – the remains of molten rock pushed up from deep inside the earth through sandstone that has long since weathered away to leave only the harder volcanic geology visible.

Mapungubwe Landscape

Mapungubwe sunset

An elephant almost disappears in Mapungubwe’s landscape (photo by Joubert)

The road descending to the Kongoni plains

Mapungubwe’s own leaning tower

Side-on view of Mapungubwe Hill, seen from the south

Mapungubwe Hill seen from the northwest

Cliffs on the Zimbabwe side of the border loom over the Limpopo River

A rainy winter’s day in Mapungubwe

Interesting rock formation in Mapungubwe

Another of Mapungubwe’s hills that ,looks almost like a monument!

High hills towering over fertile plains

Mapungubwe Hill in its surrounding landscape

A watering hole at the base of a cliff

A herd of wildebeest in the foreground appears tiny in Mapungubwe’s vastness

Natural monuments in Mapungubwe

Schroda Dam is built among the hills

Sunrise over the hills east of Leokwe

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Hungry Honeymooners

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During our recent visit to Mapungubwe National Park we left the environs of Leokwe Camp early one morning to go and explore the western reaches of the Park around the Maloutswa Pan, near the Limpopo Forest Tented Camp and Mazhou Camping Site. We were already close to our destination when we came across a mating pair of lions enjoying the early morning sun.

Mating pair of Lions

The female especially was interested in (we thought) a herd of impala grazing nearby, and got up to sneak out of view followed by the male. Anticipating an impending attack on the impalas, we positioned our vehicle for a clear view of the antelope grazing entirely unaware of the danger lurking nearby.

What we didn’t see, but the lions did, was a family of warthogs. When next we saw the lions they were chasing the warthogs at speed across the road!

Lioness chasing after warthogs (photo by Joubert)

Lion chasing after warthogs (photo by Joubert)

Unfortunately, or fortunately depending on which team you support!, the warthogs were too quick for the lions, and the honeymoon pair had to continue searching for their next breakfast opportunity.

Lions regrouping after their failed hunt

Lioness

Lioness (photo by Joubert)

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Pel’s Fishing Owl

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Now, searching for the Pel’s Fishing Owl can make you feel like Indiana Jones searching for some long lost artefact only to be thwarted at every turn. We have spent many, many hours over the years slowly driving through prime habitat in search of this elusive bird and have always come off second best.

Upon arrival at Mapungubwe National Park on the 25th of June, and while completing the usual formalities at the entrance gate, I enquired about whether there had been any recent sightings of Fishing Owls in the Park and whether we might book a special guided drive to search for them in case there was. Without hesitation the kind receptionist picked up the phone, and minutes later we were being escorted down to the banks of the Limpopo River by Leonard Luula, one of the excellent guides at Mapungubwe.

Leonard’s expert eye quickly picked out the bird that has eluded us for so long sitting in a tall riparian tree. We were ecstatic.

Pel’s Fishing Owl

Pel’s Fishing Owl (photo by Joubert)

We went back to the same area early the following day and were very grateful to see the owl once again before it shuffled out of view along its perch to behind the screen of leaves.

Pel’s Fishing Owl (photo by Joubert)

Scotopelia peli

As its name suggests, the Pel’s Fishing Owl subsists on a diet of fish (and the occasional frog, crab and even baby crocodile!) which it catches at night by swooping down over the water to snatch its prey from it. They live in riverine forests on the banks of large rivers and swamps.

Pel’s Fishing Owl usually nests in deep cavities or old hamerkop nests in tall trees near the water’s edge, mainly during the months of summer and autumn. The female incubates the clutch of two eggs for around 5 weeks while being provided food by the male. Both eggs usually hatch, but only one chick survives to fledging as the parents feed mainly the stronger chick and neglect the weaker, which dies of starvation within a few days of hatching. The chick remains in the nest for almost 10 weeks and is dependent on its parents for up to 9 months months after fledging. Due to it taking so long to raise a chick, pairs generally breed only every second year.

Pel’s Fishing Owl is the second largest owl on the African continent (after Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl). Adults have a wingspan of around 1.5m, sit about 60cm tall, and weigh approximately 2kg. Their call can be heard up to 3km away.

While overall Pel’s Fishing Owl is considered to be of least concern, it is listed as endangered in South Africa, with a population estimated at only between 70 and 100 mature individuals. Here, these enigmatic birds are found in the north of Kwazulu-Natal, along large Lowveld rivers – notably the Olifants and Luvuvhu – and along the course of the Limpopo on the border with Zimbabwe and Botswana. Thankfully, most of this restricted range is covered by formal protected areas, such as the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, Kruger National Park and of course Mapungubwe National Park. They are very sensitive to human disturbance and threatened by habitat loss. Beyond our borders, Pel’s Fishing Owls are found widely, if somewhat patchily, over much of sub-Saharan Africa.

Autumn Adventure – Boys will be boys, even if they’re lions

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Early into the third morning of our latest visit to the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, we happened upon a pride of lions on the bank of the Hluhluwe River at a spot called Sitezi. Most members of the pride quickly walked past, but at the rear of the family were three teenage males with boundless energy! They had great fun, and so were we watching them with cameras clicking away.

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River

Playful lions along the Hluhluwe River (photo by Joubert)

Autumn Adventure – Bouncy Baboons

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On our way to the Memorial Gate on the 2nd of April, as we were heading home from a wonderful week in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, we got distracted by these rambunctious Baboons! I think they must’ve watched a rugby game at some point…

With one exception, these are all Joubert’s photographs.

Baboons playing “King of the Castle”?

Young Baboons having a jol (photo by Joubert)

A kiss for mom (photo by Joubert)

At last a toy he can call his own (photo by Joubert)

Autumn Adventure – Warthog Mud Spa

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There must have been a special on offer on mud spa treatments at the uBhejane Hide while we were visiting the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park in March this year, and the Warthogs were queuing for their turn!

Warthog on the run towards Ubhejane waterhole (photo by Joubert)

Warthog enjoying his turn in the mud

Warthogs greeting at the mud spa

Warthog just had his turn in the mud spa

Speding time at the spa is thirsty work for this Warthog

Wallowing Warthog

Wallowing Warthogs (photo by Joubert)

Wallowing Warthog

Wallowing Warthogs (photo by Joubert)

Warthog just had her turn in the mud spa (photo by Joubert)

Warthog after a satisfying mud treatment (photo by Joubert)

Warthog after a satisfying mud treatment

Autumn Adventure – Eastern Natal Green Snake at Kumasinga Hide

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While we were spending a full day at Kumasinga Hide in uMkhuze Game Reserve on the 21st of March, this lovely Eastern Natal Green Snake caused quite a stir among the human visitors to the hide. I should add that the fear was entirely needless, as this species is absolutely harmless to humans, although it will bite in self-defense if you try to pick it up. It was clear that this snake was very used to having people around his home as it wasn’t nearly as frazzled as the humans were…

Eastern Natal Green Snake at Kumasinga Hide, 21 March 2022

Later in the day the snake returned to make another appearance. Owing to its relaxed disposition it was easy for us to get another few photographs before it moved off.

Eastern Natal Green Snake at Kumasinga Hide, 21 March 2022

Autumn Adventure – A day at Kumasinga

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The first place we went to after arriving at the uMkhuze Game Reserve on the 19th of March (well, after we checked into our chalet in Mantuma Camp) was the Kumasinga Hide; in our opinion one of the best photographic hides available in any of South Africa’s public reserves. Before our trip we had planned to spend a day in the hide if conditions seemed right, so when Joubert got these photographs of European Bee-eaters splashing in the waterhole our minds were made up.

European Bee-eaters bathing at Kumasinga (photo by Joubert)

On the 21st of March, a public holiday in South Africa, we set out from Mantuma Camp at 5am when the gates opened and headed straight for Kumasinga Hide, only about 4km out of camp. We arrived in the pitch dark and settled in for the day ahead. Not long after, Marilize made sure we each had a bowl of porridge and a hot cup of coffee to set the day off to a great start.

Kumasinga Hide in the dark

Joubert in a dark Kumasinga Hide

Slowly the sunrise started to light the scene in front of us while birdsong started to fill the air.

Early morning at Kumasinga

With it still quiet at the waterhole but with a beautiful glow to the morning I used the opportunity to take a few pictures of the hide.

Our Duster parked beneath a Black Monkey Thorn at Kumasinga Hide

Entrance to the walkway at the parking area for Kumasinga Hide

First stretch of the walkway to the hide

The ablutions are primitive but clean and functional

Walking towards the hide

The outside of the hide building

Inside Kumasinga Hide

Looking out from Kumasinga Hide

I took this photo of the outside of the hide a bit later in the day

Shortly after I took my seat again, the birds started arriving for their morning drink.

Cape Glossy Starlings and a Cape Turtle Dove

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

Brown-hooded Kingfisher (photo by Joubert)

Red-faced Mousebirds

Three-banded Plover

Red-billed Oxpeckers and Cape Glossy Starlings

Early morning at Kumasinga Hide

Cape Turtle Dove

Red-faced Mousebird and Dark-capped Bulbul

Red-faced Mousebird taking off while a Cape Glossy Starling drinks

Red-faced Mousebirds, Cape Glossy Starling and Black-collared Barbet

Pink-throated Twinspot

White-browed Scrub Robin

Rudd’s Apalis

Just before 8am the first mammals (apart from us) arrived on the scene, but didn’t venture down for a drink.

Impala herd

Slender Mongoose (photo by Joubert)

For more than the next hour-and-a-half it was mostly birds providing the entertainment, with the star of the show undoubtedly being a glamorous Purple-crested Turaco.

Green Wood-hoopoe

Green Wood-hoopoe (photo by Joubert)

Striped Skink

Yellow-fronted Canaries

Little Swift (photo by Joubert)

Red-billed Oxpeckers

Thick-billed Weaver female

Purple-crested Turaco

Purple-crested Turaco (photo by Joubert)

Purple-crested Turaco

Purple-crested Turaco (photo by Joubert)

Marsh Terrapins

Brown-veined White

By now it was 09:30 and the day started to heat up. Two Nyala bulls put in an appearance at opposite sides of the waterhole, making it difficult for Joubert and me, and a few other photographers who were in the hide at the time, to decide where to focus.

Nyala bull

A lone Blue Wildebeest bull arrived as well, but didn’t stay long.

Blue Wildebeest (photo by Joubert)

Blue Wildebeest

A troop of Vervet Monkeys entered the stage from the left and passed all along the edge of the waterhole to the other side.

Vervet Monkey at Kumasinga

Vervet Monkeys admiring their reflections

Vervet Monkey at Kumasinga (photo by Joubert)

One of the Nyala bulls had a special act in store for us. He proceeded to a particular spot on the edge of the waterhole and thoroughly covered his horns with mud. Perhaps the show was more for the benefit of other nyalas than for us.

Nyala bull horning the mud

Nyala bull horning the mud (photo by Joubert)

His performance completed, the Nyala vacated the stage for the herd of Impalas that had finally mustered the courage for a drink of water.

Impala herd

Impalas and Red-billed Oxpeckers drinking

Impala

Impalas playing (photo by Joubert)

The next actor on the Kumasinga platform really got the attention of every person in attendance with his surprise appearance. We’re going to keep a few photos of this very confiding Eastern Natal Green Snake on the backburner until the next post on de Wets Wild.

Eastern Natal Green Snake at Kumasinga Hide, 21 March 2022

An animal that usually sticks around only for a second or two before slipping away, especially when they see a camera it seems, is the Slender Mongoose. What a wonderful opportunity to see this one so calmly going about its business all around the waterhole.

Slender Mongoose

Slender Mongoose (photo by Joubert)

Slender Mongoose

Slender Mongoose (photo by Joubert)

Despite the clouds building up the mid-day heat was oppressive and a seemingly constant stream of Nyalas and Impalas were now making their way to the water.

Mid-day at Kumasinga Hide

Nyala ewe and lamb

Nyala ewes (photo by Joubert)

Impala ewe with a heavy load of red-billed oxpeckers

Impalas drinking (photo by Joubert)

Impala ewe that’s had enough of free-loading Red-billed Oxpeckers (photo by Joubert)

Acrobatic Impala (photo by Joubert)

Dancing Impala (photo by Joubert)

Acrobatic Impala (photo by Joubert)

Peering out of Kumasinga Hide

Another magnificent Nyala bull strode confidently down to the water and, after quenching his thirst, went to the same spot the other bull did earlier and proceeded to attack the mud in the same fashion.

Nyala bull

Nyala bull (photo by Joubert)

Nyala bull

Nyala bull horning the mud

Nyala bull horning the mud (photo by Joubert)

Nyala bull horning the mud

Nyala bull with horns covered in mud

This younger bull tried to imitate the master’s strange behaviour on a different patch of land.

Young nyala bull also horning the ground (photo by Joubert)

Several birds also came down to the water for a drink in the heat of the day, and Joubert got some excellent practice taking photographs of birds in flight thanks to a pair of Fork-tailed Drongos regularly splashing into the waterhole to cool off.

Cape Turtle Dove (Photo by Joubert)

Fork-tailed Drongos (photo by Joubert)

Fork-tailed Drongo (photo by Joubert)

Fork-tailed Drongo

Fork-tailed Drongo (photo by Joubert)

Fork-tailed Drongos (photo by Joubert)

Fork-tailed Drongo (photo by Joubert)

Purple-crested Turaco

Thick-billed Weaver female

Grey Waxbill

Little Bee-eater

Sombre Greenbul

Next, a family of Warthogs arrived noisily and, after drinking, also cooled down in the waterhole as if they didn’t have a care in the world.

Warthog siblings

Warthog family

Warthog sow

Warthogs wallowing

Around 1pm another big Nyala bull, strutting his stuff for all his rivals, had his drink and then proceeded to, as the others before him, cover his horns with mud at the designated spot.

Nyala bull in dominance display

Nyala bull

Nyala bull horning the mud

Nyala bull

Nyala bull horning the mud

Nyala Bull in stiff-legged dominance display

Shortly after the flock of European Bee-eaters came around the waterhole again, allowing Joubert another chance to get shots of them as they cooled down in the dark water.

European Bee-eater (photo by Joubert)

Traffic at the waterhole gradually decreased as the afternoon wore on…

Purple-crested Turaco

Male Eastern Blacktail Dragonfly

Common Waxbill

Sombre Greenbul

but our slithery friend paid us another visit!

Eastern Natal Green Snake at Kumasinga Hide, 21 March 2022

By dusk only the Marsh Terrapins were still around to keep us company.

And by the time darkness fell, and a leopard started rasping behind us (in the same general direction as the car!) it was time for us to head back to camp.

DeWetsWild

Disappearing into South Africa's wild places… Again!

Category Archives: Memorable sightings

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Verreaux’s Eagle Nest in Mapungubwe

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Mapungubwe’s Treetop Walk

Limpopo Ramble 2022: The Land of the Giants

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Hungry Honeymooners

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Pel’s Fishing Owl

Scotopelia peli

Autumn Adventure – Boys will be boys, even if they’re lions

Autumn Adventure – Bouncy Baboons

Autumn Adventure – Warthog Mud Spa

Autumn Adventure – Eastern Natal Green Snake at Kumasinga Hide

Autumn Adventure – A day at Kumasinga

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