Category Archives: Kwazulu Natal Province

Our experiences in the reserves of Kwazulu-Natal, South Africa

Story of my life

This morning, JacarandaFM – one of South Africa’s biggest radio stations – aired a humorous sketch based on one of our most hair-raising wildlife encounters and the events that followed in their breakfast show’s weekly “Story of my life” segment.

Unfortunately for most of our friends here at de Wets Wild the story is mostly in Afrikaans, our home language, but perhaps you’ll be able to catch the gist of it, which involves a swear word slipping out in an unguarded moment and being stored away in a little boy’s memory bank for later use…

Click here to listen to the piece.

Vir al ons Afrikaanse vriende, julle sal verstaan dat die “kru taal” juis is wat die storietjie so snaaks maak!

The rhinos that caused the swearing at Ithala Game Reserve...

Two of the three rhinos that caused the swearing at Ithala Game Reserve…

 

Kamberg Nature Reserve

Talk about South Africa’s most scenic natural attractions, and the Drakensberg mountain range is sure to feature in the conversation. The Kamberg is a distinctive mountain, reminiscent of a comb (“kam” in Afrikaans, “berg” meaning mountain), in the foothills of the Drakensberg. The Kamberg Nature Reserve was originally proclaimed in 1951, covering only 2,232 hectares. Today it forms an integral part of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park‘s expansive 243,000 hectares of protected mountain paradise, recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site of natural and cultural significance. Grasslands predominate, though forested sections exist in the sheltered valleys and extensive reedbeds and wetlands can be found along the Mooi (“pretty”) River, which forms a focal point for the reserve.

Whatever your energy levels, there’s ample opportunities to enjoy the refreshing mountain air at Kamberg. The reserve is well known in fly-fishing circles, with the Mooi River and two dams stocked with (admittedly exotic) trout. There’s three small, but well maintained, picnic sites – one in a copse of trees at the gate, one on the banks of Eland Dam, and one next to the river. Of course there are several trails leading down into the valleys and up into the mountains that may be explored on foot or mountain bike. And there’s a jungle gym and swings to keep the younger generation entertained within shouting distance of the chalets up at the camp.

The tiny camp at Kamberg, managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, is heaven-on-earth to any weary city dweller searching for peace and quiet, as there’s only 5 two-bedded chalets and one six-sleeper cottage at the camp. Eight kilometers from the main resort, the rustic and isolated Stillerust (Afrikaans for “quiet rest”) Farm House provides accommodation for ten guests. There’s a very limited selection of cooldrinks and sweets on sale at reception, and guests should bring along all their own provisions, firewood included. Just behind the camp, at the reception office, is the Kamberg San Rock Art Interpretive Centre where educational films on the San rock art of the Drakensberg are shown and from where the guided walks to the Game Pass Shelter departs. It’s a three-hour round trip to the internationally renowned cave, where high quality San paintings that were instrumental in deciphering the meaning behind the images left by these hunter-gatherers on rock faces across Southern Africa, can be appreciated. Unfortunately the prevailing weather conditions kept us from visiting the cave on this trip, but that’s reason enough in itself to return soon! For guests staying longer, Kamberg is also an ideal base from which to explore other destinations in the Drakensberg, such as nearby Giant’s Castle, and Midlands attractions like Midmar Dam, Karkloof Conservancy, Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve and Queen Elizabeth Park.

During our visit, the local wildlife mostly remained well hidden in the long, flowing grasslands through the day, except for a water mongoose that flashed across the trail next to Erskine Dam, a troop of baboons that sauntered through the camp one afternoon and a distant herd of black wildebeest we saw on the plains near Stillerust. At night however literally dozens of antelope; reedbuck, grey rhebuck and grey duiker, and hares and rabbits would come out to graze on the lawns between the chalets at the camp.

The Drakensberg is home to an amazingly diverse birdlife, with several rare and endemic species occurring at Kamberg. We were thrilled to see several pairs of grey crowned cranes in the wetlands, but absolutely overjoyed by our first ever sighting in the wild of the highly endangered  wattled cranes, even if the breeding pair was quite far off in the distance and our photograph nothing more than proof of the sighting 😉

Speaking of cranes, we paid a quick visit to the Hlatikulu Crane Sanctuary on the nearby property of the Entabeni Education Centre where they take care of injured and orphaned blue, crowned and wattled cranes and do more than their share to preserve these special and endangered birds for South Africa’s future generations.

From Pretoria, it’s a drive of approximately 540km to Kamberg, following the N3 southwards to Mooi River. The road to the reserve turns off the R103 at Rosetta, between the Midlands towns of Mooi River and Howick. The 40km (30km tar and 10km gravel) stretch between Rosetta and Kamberg is a very scenic drive through green farmlands and the foothills that constitute the “Little ‘Berg”,  and should not be rushed (the road is not in a good enough condition to travel on at speed in any case).

Kamberg Map

Pretoria to Kamberg (drawn from Google Maps)

Our first visit to Kamberg over a long weekend early in May 2015 opened only a tiny window onto the rich cultural and natural treasures protected there. We’ll be back for sure; there’s still so much to explore, experience and appreciate at this little known gem of “the ‘Berg”.

Intricate

An exquisite example of San rock art, on display at the Main Caves Museum in Giant’s Castle Game Reserve, in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site.

Intricate

Intricate” is this week’s WordPress photo challenge theme.

Kamberg tranquility

This morning, we awoke to beautifully clear skies here at Kamberg.

Kamberg 02-05-2015

We also learned just how quickly and unpredictably the weather can change in the Drakensberg; within half-an-hour of this photo being taken it was completely overcast!

Not working on Workers’ Day

It’s the Workers’ Day long weekend in South Africa, and we find ourselves at the tiny camp at Kamberg, in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park. It is our first time at Kamberg, and thus far we’re quite impressed with what we found.

Kamberg 01-05-2015

Fresh

The crystal clear and unquestionably fresh mountain streams at Giant’s Castle Game Reserve, in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park

Fresh” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge.

Summer at Midmar

We headed for Midmar Dam Nature Reserve in the Natal Midlands following our amazing time at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park in December. The serenity of the large expanse of water in front of us sure was a dramatic change in pace from the five days of searching  for the “Big-5” that came before.

We had only one afternoon, one night and one morning to spend at Midmar before heading further inland to celebrate New Year’s at Golden Gate Highlands National Park, but thoroughly enjoyed ourselves walking around the beautifully kept grounds.

Wall

The spectacular Amphitheatre formation in the Drakensberg range is the focal point of the Royal Natal National Park.

Wall” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge

Summer at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi

Over the last couple of weeks we’ve shared with you several exciting sightings we enjoyed at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, during our December holidays in the bush. Time to wrap up that part of our trip now.

We left the cheese farm near Mtubatuba very early in the morning of the 24th of December, and made it to the Memorial Gate just in time for it opening at 05:00AM (it’s a drive of about 75km only). We used Memorial Gate so that we could explore the Hluhluwe-section of the reserve on our way south to Mpila Camp, where we could check in 14:00 in the afternoon.

Mpila is a favourite camp of ours. It is unfenced, except for a single strand of electric wire strung high enough to only keep out elephants and giraffes. Other wildlife, including large predators, regularly roam among the accommodation units. Visitors should keep a special eye open for raids by vervet monkeys during the day, and for hyenas at night while preparing their evening meals on the barbeque fires.

That afternoon, we went for a quick drive and had some fun with a cute white rhino calf. Hluhluwe-Imfolozi is renowned as a rhinoceros haven, and we pray that the hard work and dedication of the rangers protecting them against a terrible onslaught from armed poachers will not be in vain.

When we made our December 2014 plans a year before, we specifically wanted to spend Christmas at Mpila. A special day at a special place. We set out for a quick drive on a glorious morning, then went back to camp to prepare and enjoy Christmas lunch. In the afternoon the Park was inundated by a quick cloud burst, luckily the gravel roads are in good condition and we could continue to explore the Park soon after.

Boxing Day brought us our memorable encounter with lions in trees, but Hluhluwe-Imfolozi has much more to offer and our sightings this day was particularly varied. Our day ended with our best ever sighting of a wild African Rock Python, almost as long as the road was wide!

Every day at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi brings something special and exciting, and the 27th of December was no different. Our day started with a thrilling wild dog pack on the hunt, but that wasn’t where it ended!

Our last full day at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park seemed to belong to the elephants, with a number of really close-up encounters, but we also had a good laugh at a hyena that bit off more than she could chew.

All too soon our five night stay at Mpila came to an end. We had collected so many memories, and can’t wait to return. Driving to Nyalazi Gate we tried to postpone our departure as long as we could, even spending half-an-hour looking for a distant pride of lions reported by fellow spotters in the kznsightings group (a group set up so that visitors to the game reserves in Kwazulu-Natal can share what they find while exploring with other visitors).

We found the lions and then departed for Midmar in the KZN Midlands.

 

 

The (Over) Ambitious Hyena

While exploring Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park just after Christmas, we encountered a spotted hyena in the west of the reserve. In typical hyena fashion she was walking determinedly and at some speed along the road, and so we followed in the hope that we might see her hunt.

Not long after, she picked up a herd of zebra standing in the road ahead, and made a run at them. The tables were quickly turned however, as the dominant stallion of the zebra family sent our over-ambitious hyena running for cover…

(Click on any of the photos to enjoy the sighting with us in a carousel gallery)