Author Archives: DeWetsWild

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About DeWetsWild

Nature and wildlife enthusiast and tour guide, based in Pretoria, South Africa.

South African Vultures

“Probably there is no other bird whose appearance on the wing and on the ground offers more vivid contrast. Sailing majestically far up in the blue, without perceptible movement of its great pinions, it seems to cleave the air free of all conscious effort, and conveys to the earth dweller far below, the ideal of poetic motion. When seen on mother earth, it is hard to realise that this ungainly, clumsily hopping, and repellent-looking bird is the same that so delighted our senses when on the wing, nor is the picture in any sense restored as, distributed at its feast, it flaps heavily away to some adjacent tree.” – James Stevenson-Hamilton, Wildlife in South Africa, 1947.

If ever there’s a bird suffering from bad press, it must be the vulture. Their unflattering appearance perfectly suits their vital ecological function. If they look like undertakers, it is because they are: clearing away the dead and the rotting, minimising disease and recycling nutrients through the system. Vultures spend most of their time gliding effortlessly on the thermals, using their incredible eyesight to find carrion on the ground far below, each species supremely adapted to consuming particular portions of the carcass.

Nine species of vulture has been recorded in South Africa.

Hooded Vulture (Necrosyrtes monachus)

With a weight of around 2kg and wingspan of 1.6m, the Hooded Vulture is one of the smaller vulture species occurring in South Africa. They prefer savannah and woodland, and often scavenge around refuse dumps and abattoirs. Their thin bills allow Hooded Vultures access to scraps of meat other vultures can’t reach. Locally, these birds breed in the dry season raising a single chick in a treetop nest after an incubation period of around 50 days. Chicks fledge between 80 and 130 days after hatching and are then cared for by their parents for another 3-4 months.

Hooded vultures are quite common in Africa north of our borders, but in South Africa they are rare and occur only in the Lowveld of Mpumalanga and Limpopo Provinces, where they can be seen in the Kruger National Park. Despite estimating their African population at just below 200,000, the IUCN classifies them as endangered due to a declining population.

EDIT: In 2017 the IUCN reclassified the Hooded Vulture as “Critically Endangered” due to a rapid decline in their population.

White-headed Vulture (Trigonoceps occipitalis)

White-headed Vultures are medium-sized vultures, with a wingspan of up to 2.3m and up to 4.7kg in weight. They occur in savannah and dry woodlands, and nest and roost on treetops, especially baobabs. Pairs are thought to probably be territorial, incubating a single egg and raising the chick during the dry season, when carcasses are more abundant.

White-headed vulture populations are declining across their range and they are largely restricted to conservation areas. With a total population of between 10,000 and 20,000, the IUCN considers them vulnerable. In South Africa they occur in Kwazulu-Natal, Mpumalanga, Limpopo and the Northern Cape – we’ve encountered them at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park and the Kruger National Park before.

EDIT: In 2017 the IUCN reclassified the White-headed Vulture to “Critically Endangered.

White-backed Vulture (Gyps africanus)

White-backed vultures are closely related to the Cape Vulture, but much smaller, with a wingspan of 2.2m and a weight of between 4 and 7kg. They feed predominantly on carrion, preferring the softer pieces of the carcass. White-backed Vultures breed in small colonies, making their nests in the tops of trees, where they raise a single chick. They range widely, covering enormous areas daily in their search for food. White-backed vultures can congregate in huge numbers at large carcasses and waterholes.

The White-backed vulture is the most numerous vulture in South Africa’s savannah areas, occurring in the provinces of Kwazulu-Natal, Mpumalanga, Limpopo, North-West, the western Free State and the Northern Cape. Their population has however decreased drastically, prompting the IUCN to classify them as endangered with a total estimated population of 270,000 of which 40,000 occur in Southern Africa. Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, uMkhuze Game Reserve, Kruger National Park and Ithala Game Reserve are good places to search for White-backed Vultures.

EDIT: In 2017 the IUCN reclassified the White-backed Vulture to “Critically Endangered.

Bearded Vulture (Gypaetus barbatus)

The Bearded Vulture, or Lammergeier, is a specialised vulture occurring in high mountains (normally above 2000m) and feeding especially on marrow and bone fragments rather than meat. They carry large bones to a considerable height before dropping them on rocks below so that it splinters into pieces it can swallow and exposes the marrow inside. It also employs this practice when preying on tortoises! These vultures have also been observed hunting prey of considerable size by forcing them off cliffs. Pairs forage over enormous areas, covering hundreds of kilometres on the wing in a single day. These vultures breed in large nests built on inaccessible cliffs and raise 1 or 2 chicks; eggs hatch within 60 days of laying and the chicks fledge 100-130 days later. Young remain dependant on their parents for up to two years. Adults’ wingspan stretches to 2.8m and African specimens average 5.7kg in weight.

In South Africa, the Lammergeier is threatened with extinction and occurs only in the Drakensberg Range and surrounds, where the population is estimated at about 100 breeding pairs. We’ve been fortunate to encounter them at Golden Gate Highlands National Park and in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, especially at Giant’s Castle Game Reserve. They also have a localised distribution across the highlands of East Africa and a wide distribution in Europe and Asia, although they can’t be considered numerous anywhere.

The IUCN considers the Bearded Vulture as being “Near Threatened” on a global scale.

Lappet-faced Vulture (Torgos tracheliotos)

The Lappet-faced Vulture is the most powerful of the African vultures and dominates all other species at a carcass. It has a wing-span of up to 2.9m, weighs up to 9.4kg and has one of the largest and most powerful beaks of any bird of prey, useful to break through the tough skins of large mammal carcasses. Carrion is their main food source, preferring the skin, tendons and ligaments that other vultures can’t cope with, but they are known to hunt small prey up to the size of flamingoes. These vultures inhabit dry savannah and deserts and are less social than many other species – any congregations are likely to be at or near a large carcass or waterhole. Their enormous nests are placed in the forks of large trees, and here both parents incubate (mostly) a single egg for about 55 days.

The IUCN considers them vulnerable, with a total population of about 8,000 remaining in Africa. In South Africa they are seldom found outside of the big game reserves in Kwazulu-Natal (Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park), Mpumalanga and Limpopo (Kruger National Park) and the Northern Cape.

EDIT: In 2017 the IUCN reclassified the Lappet-faced Vulture to “Endangered.

Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres)

Endemic to Southern Africa, the Cape Vulture, or Cape Griffon, inhabits mountains, grasslands, savannah and semi-desert, nesting in colonies on high cliffs and rocky ledges. At 11kg in weight with a wingspan of 2.6m they are the biggest vulture in Africa, much bigger than the closely related White-backed Vulture, yet are dominated by the Lappet-faced Vulture at carcasses. They cover immense distances in search of large mammal carcasses, the staple of its diet being the softer tissues like meat and organs.

In 2006 the IUCN estimated their population at between 8,000 and 10,000 birds and classifies them as vulnerable. They occur in all South Africa’s provinces and we’ve seen them at Golden Gate Highlands National Park, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, Kruger National Park, Marakele National Park (one of the country’s biggest breeding colonies), Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve and the reserves comprising the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, where they are the most numerous kind of vulture.

EDIT: In 2017 the IUCN reclassified the Cape Vulture to “Endangered.

Three other vulture species have been recorded in South Africa. A small population of Palm-nut Vulture (Gypohierax angolensis) occurs patchily along the north coast of Kwazulu Natal Province and can be seen at Umlalazi Nature Reserve, where we hope to visit in 2016. The Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) appears to have become extinct as a resident species in South Africa and is now only seen very rarely, probably as a vagrant from elsewhere on the continent. There has similarly been only a handful of South African observations of Ruppell’s Vulture (Gyps ruepelli), a species common further north in Africa.

The first Saturday of September is recognised annually as International Vulture Awareness Day; a day to highlight the plight of these enigmatic birds that perform such an important ecological function and yet face so many threats to their continued existence. South Africa’s vulture populations are declining due to poisoning (accidental and deliberate), habitat loss, diminished food availability, electrocution by powerlines, drowning in small reservoirs and poaching for use in traditional medicine and other cultural practices. Several vulture restaurants operate throughout the country, where carcasses are made available to vultures to supplement their diets, especially when raising chicks, and reduce the risk of poisoning and poaching.

IVAD logo 2014

A Lazy Sunday At Rietvlei

Rietvlei Nature Reserve is the largest of the natural areas within the Pretoria city limits, protecting 3800 hectares of endangered bankenveld grasslands and reedbeds around the Rietvlei Dam. Rietvlei offers sanctuary to an astounding variety of indigenous game and birdlife just minutes away from our home, and was the perfect destination for a picnic with a good friend on the last Sunday of August. The gallery that follows comprises some photos we took on the day, and is a perfect introduction to what this special reserve has to offer – in the few hours we spent there we ticked 13 kinds of mammals (including plains zebra, eland, waterbuck, reedbuck, buffalo and white rhino) and 53 different birdspecies.

The Rietvlei Nature Reserve, on the southern outskirts of Pretoria, is owned and managed by the City of Tshwane Metropolitan Municipality and is very popular, especially over weekends and on public holidays. The reserve offers chalet accommodation and camping, self-drive game- and birdviewing , photographic hides, picnic sites, a coffee shop, lion camp (guided tours only), guided night drives, fishing, sailing, rowing, hiking, mountain biking and horse trails.

Rietvlei location

Rietvlei lies roughly 19km south of the Pretoria City Centre (drawn with Google Maps)

 

Connected

Joubert communing with nature, at Ntshondwe in the Ithala Game Reserve:

Ntshondwe Walkabout (21)

Connected” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge

Winter, or not, at Royal Natal

Early August is still considered winter in South Africa. In preparing for our latest trip to Royal Natal National Park, in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park and World Heritage Site, we had therefore anticipated snow, at least on the high peaks, and severely cold temperatures. Watching the weather forecasts in the days before our visit was a confusing affair. One private weather site was predicting extreme cold and gloomy weather, while the national weather service predicted glorious sunshine with temperatures in the mid 20’s. Not knowing what to expect, we packed for any eventuality.

The Women’s Day long weekend was only three days long, and so we decided to get an early start out of Pretoria. Through the Free State, the outside temperature remained around freezing. Imagine therefore our excitement seeing the temperature reading on the dashboard rise as we descended the Drakensberg Range into Kwazulu-Natal Province, with not a flake of snow to be seen anywhere! By the time we arrived at Rugged Glen, just to the east of the Royal Natal National Park‘s entrance, it was warm enough to start taking off some layers of clothing and soak in the sunshine. The South African Weather Service got it right this time!

Despite it being a long weekend, the campsite at Rugged Glen was devoid of people; perhaps the predictions of poor weather dissuaded many campers from venturing to “The ‘Berg” for a break. Whatever the case may have been, we didn’t complain about having only Rugged Glen’s diverse birdlife and a few nervous reedbuck to share our first mountain picnic with.

From Rugged Glen, which is also the base for the popular guided bridle trails that traverse these scenic hills, we headed to the Park’s gate, supported the crafters selling their wares and then drove the short distance to the Mahai Visitor Centre. Time for another picnic at one of the tables along the Mahai stream before making our way along, and a little beyond, the pretty and easy Cascades boardwalk, passing several dainty bushbuck ewes along the way while a herd of eland grazed high above us on the slope of Dooley Mountain (named after an Irish logger given a concession to cut wood here in the late 1800’s).

With our hiking boots now introduced to Royal Natal’s network of walking trails it was time to head to Thendele Camp and our accommodation for the two nights we’d be spending at the foot of the magnificent Amphitheatre formation, a basalt cliff-face almost 1000m high and 5000m wide. To the left of the Ampitheatre is the Eastern Buttress, 3011m above sea level, and to the right Sentinel peak soars to 3165m ASL. These majestic natural features absolutely dominates the scenery at Royal Natal, which together with Rugged Glen covers over 8000 hectares, and was the main reason for the Park’s proclamation in 1916. The “Royal” moniker was added to the reserve’s name after a visit by the British Royal family in 1947. The vegetation in the Park, more than 900 species strong, is mostly open grassland dotted with a few hardier trees and shrubs, with heathland on the summit and mountain forests in the sheltered valleys.

We found Thendele alive with bird song, and just below the huts a small group of mountain reedbuck were right at home. Despite the camp’s 29 units (offering between 2 and 6 beds each) being fully booked, it was a haven of peace and tranquility – just the way we like it. At 1580m above sea level, Thendele lies a lot lower than the peaks that tower above it.

Evening temperatures were admittedly a lot cooler, and our chalet’s lounge with its cosy fireplace was just the place to enjoy dark chocolate and a cup of coffee at the end of a wonderful day spent outdoors.
Royal Natal August 2015 (36)

The early morning sun on Sunday bathed Thendele and the Amphitheatre in a glorious gold, inviting Joubert and I to walk around camp while Marilize prepared a hearty breakfast.

Our first destination this morning was the trout dam at Mahai, where the windstill conditions made for splendid reflections on the water’s surface and we found out just how easy it is to loose complete track of time while marveling at the spectacular scenery around us.

Royal Natal’s biggest attraction is the selection of well demarcated hiking trails traversing the area and excellent pocket guides and maps are available at the shops at Thendele and the Visitor Centre. One of the easier trails is Otto’s Walk, which starts at the Visitor Centre’s parking area and named after one of the reserve’s early Superintendents, Otto Zunckel. It follows the course of the Mahai stream through dense mountain forest for most of the way before returning along the main access road, a total distance of 3km. The pair of rare Mountain Wagtail we encountered at a pleasant spot next to the stream was a real highlight. Another particularly interesting walk is to the San Rock Art site in the Sigubudu Valley, accessible at a small fee and accompanied by a local guide.

Along the main access road from the gate to the Visitor Centre there’s a viewpoint offering an absolutely unobscured view of the Amphitheatre and the wider Drakensberg range. With winter being the dry season, the Thukela River was barely flowing, with only a trickle evident among the rocks and pebbles in the river bed. There was also no sign of the Thukela Falls, which with a combined drop of almost 950m is the 2nd highest waterfall on the planet. One of the Park’s most popular trails follows the impressive gorge cut by the Thukela through the Drakensberg’s sandstone.

Royal Natal August 2015 (57)

We spent the afternoon relaxing around Thendele, enjoying an ice cream on the lawns outside the reception office and exploring the short forest walk behind the camp.

On our final morning, before heading back to Pretoria, we awoke to a Thendele cloaked in thick mist. And cold. Neither the Amphitheatre above nor the Thukela Valley below was to be seen. The wintry weather we had been dreading seemed to have set in just as we were about to depart. After spending two lovely days walking and picnicking in these beautiful mountains, we were immensely grateful for the blessing of good weather! And as we drove out the park that morning, we were already going through our diaries to see where we’d be fitting in our next visit to this magnificent mountain landscape.

The previous time we visited Royal Natal (April 2012), we traveled to the Park via the Oliviershoek Pass and found it such a pothole-ridden affair that we took a 100km detour to return via Van Rheenens Pass instead. This time we decided to give Oliviershoek (the R74) another try for the last 70km from Harrismith to the Park. The road is being rebuilt and by the time it is finished this should again be one of the country’s most enjoyable drives. For the moment, there’s a 6km stretch of one way traffic on which Stop / Go controls are operating, and a further 15km portion on a wide, smooth gravel detour, perfectly safe to travel in a sedan as long as you don’t try to drive too fast.

Route to Royal Natal

Pretoria to Royal Natal (drawn with Google Maps)

The Royal Natal National Park, Thendele Resort and Mahai and Rugged Glen Campsites are managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife.

From Every Angle

We’ve shown you this exuberant baby white rhino, that ran circles around us in the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park on Chrismas Eve 2014, before. This series of photos is just such a perfect fit for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge, “From Every Angle“, and the little rhino just so darn cute, that we’re sure you won’t mind having another look?

 

Sweni Wilderness Trail

It is Sunday afternoon and we’re standing around in the parking area of Satara Rest Camp, in the Kruger National Park. My sister Ansie and I have already enjoyed two wonderful days exploring the southern part of the reserve, and now we’re very excited to depart on the next part of our visit – the Sweni Wilderness Trail. Having been introduced to our lead ranger Ndou and the six kind ladies we’ll be sharing the experience with, and with all the baggage packed into the trailer, it is time to get into the open game viewing vehicle and head into the wilderness.

We drive southwards, and apart from Ndou having to admonish a group of tourists for getting out of their vehicle among a herd of giraffe, enjoy sightings of kudu, waterbuck, more giraffe, impala, elephant, blue wildebeest and steenbok. Just across the bridge over the Sweni Spruit, Ndou turns left onto a no-entry road, reserved to access the base camp of the Sweni Wilderness Trail. Soon after, we have our first tastes of what makes the Sweni such a hugely popular trail: two separate sightings of lion males, first an old loner and then two beautiful specimens in their prime. It is a vehicle filled with some very excited trailists that arrives at the Sweni Trails Camp late that afternoon!

The base camp has four small A-frame huts that accommodate two guests each, and as the camp has no electricity we quickly settle into our units while there’s still daylight left. We are introduced to Rhulani, Ndou’s assistant ranger, and James, the very experienced camp caretaker and cook. The conversation around the Sweni dinner table that evening centered on the collective nouns used to describe various groups of animals – a business of mongoose, a tower or caleidoscope of giraffe, a parliament of owls.

“You’ve got the watches, we’ve got the time”. Ndou’s speaking as we sit around the camp fire after dinner, the camp entirely immersed in the darkness of the African night. He’s making the point that there’s a different pace to the wilderness and that we should let go of our own perceptions of time and distance in order to fully take in the wilderness experience. He and Rhulani goes through the “programme” of the days ahead, ensuring that we understand the rules necessary to our safety while walking out in the wilderness among some of Africa’s most dangerous animals.

Most of the group opt to turn in early, leaving three of us to enjoy a last cup of coffee at the fireside. A rustle in the grass followed by an enormous splash has us grabbing for a spotlight, illuminating an impala ewe standing knee-high in the shallow pool in front of camp. We watch as she gets out of the water, and walks along the water’s edge. She disappears from sight for a second as she passes behind the trunk of a big tree next to the camp fence. Just then, there’s another tremendous splash from the water, and as the spotlight finds the impala again it is abundantly clear that her situation has turned for the worse. There’s a frantic scene playing out just meters in front of us and no one thinks to pick up a camera! A medium-sized crocodile has her body firmly in its mouth, and a hyena (or was it two?) is running up and down along the water. We watch in dumbfounded awe as the struggling impala disappears below the water, a string of bubbles rising to the surface signalling that she breathed her last. Five minutes later, the crocodile surfaces again with his now drowned prize, just for a few seconds, her eyes still open and eerily reflecting the light from our torch. We speculate that the hyenas must have chased the impala into the water the first time, and that the opportunistic crocodile then grabbed her as she walked along the pool. However it came about, the excitement of what we’d witnessed and the sounds of the crocodile thrashing in the water as it enjoyed its meal while baboons scream in horror from the trees nearby kept me awake for quite some time that night.

Sweni Trail July 2015 (10)

The drowned impala brought to the surface for a few seconds

James provided an early morning wake-up call for those finding it hard to rise Monday morning, and all of us enjoyed the coffee and rusks before heading out for our first hike. Ndou and Rhulani chose to go walking in an area known as Milaleni, a short drive into the west of the Sweni Wilderness. Our walk started off shrouded in dense mist, which only lifted much later in the morning. Regular sightings of game and birds kept our senses peaked while Ndou and Rhulani astounded us with their tracking skills and shared their extensive knowledge of the bushveld. They chose a rocky outcrop as a picturesque picnic spot before leading us back to the vehicle along the course of the Sweni.

We arrived back at camp to the smells of a delicious brunch, expertly prepared by James while we were out walking. Meals are enjoyed under a large thatched roof, with a view over the Sweni stream, the crocodile pool below the camp and the muddy waterhole on the opposite bank. There’s a constant stream of wildlife heading to the water, and combined with the wide variety of birds and small animals in the camp it is very difficult to go and enjoy a siesta after brunch, for fear of missing out on any of the action!

The afternoon outings take in a spot from which to enjoy the beautiful sunsets that the Lowveld is famous for. Heading eastwards to the Lebombo Mountains on Monday afternoon we spotted a selection of plains game and several species of birds – the Greater Painted Snipe we flushed as the vehicle crossed the Gwini stream causing much excitement in particular for the “twitchers” in our party. The sunset spot Ndou and Rhulani brought us to is known as Ted’s Place – a site high on a cliff in the Lebombos with the mostly dry bed of the Sweni far below and the plains of central Kruger stretching as far as the eye can see. In the distance a herd of elephant were kicking up dust on their hurried way while baboons and impalas foraged on the river bank, unworried by our presence high above them. There’s a calmness that settles over you at sunset in South Africa’s wild places, and it is easy to see why ranger Ted Whitfield enjoyed this tranquil spot so much.

That evening James had a delicious pot of stew waiting for us back at camp, and what better way to end a memorable day out in the bush than with good company and intelligent conversation around the campfire.

Sweni Trail July 2015 (43)

It’s another early wake-up accompanied by coffee, rusks and birdsong on Tuesday morning. Our ranger-guides drive us out to the Gwini-stream area again, where we’d concentrate our walking along the stream in the hopes that we’ll find the snipes again.  The area literally teemed with animals and we often found ourselves among mixed herds of wildebeest, plains zebra, giraffe and impala. Rhulani pointed out a well camouflaged rock monitor lizard, hibernating high in the branches of a fever tree, and then later explained to us why the weeping wattle is also known as the “toiletpaper bush” (if you chew on the branches of this tree you’ll soon find a need for its soft leaves 😉 ).

For a long stretch of our walk we were accompanied by the shrill chattering of a Greater Honeyguide. Ndou related the local belief that if you don’t reward the honeyguide with a piece of the spoils after it has guided you to a beehive, the next time it will lead you into danger. Shortly after, with this warning still fresh in our minds, the recently placed tracks of lions we came across made us hope that Ndou and Rhulani didn’t owe this honeyguide anything!

We had our picnic rest-stop near Kally’s Fountain while curious giraffes peered at us from close by. Considering that it was the middle of a rather dry winter season the amount of water simply flowing out of the muddy soil at this spot was astounding and from the tracks in the area it was clear that it was also a favourite drinking and wallowing place for the area’s wildlife.

It was not long after picking up our backpacks again and continuing along the stream that we passed a herd of giraffe that seemed less worried about us and more concerned with something else moving through the savanna on their other side. Walking into a clearing, we were thrilled to see three lionesses and about a dozen tiny cubs heading towards a thicket some 200m ahead of us. We enjoyed the sighting from a safe distance, as lion mothers are notoriously aggressive and extremely dangerous. They quickly rushed the cubs to the safety of the thicket and Ndou and Rhulani then steered us in the direction of the vehicle. While we didn’t see the lions again I’m sure they kept a watchful eye on us as we walked past!

Back at camp it was time for another scrumptious brunch and then more opportunities to enjoy the real-life wildlife documentary playing out around the waterhole. The satiated crocodile was baking in the sun at one end of the pool while Egyptian Geese were noisily laying claim to the other. All around us tiny birds were flitting about the branches while wildebeest, zebra, giraffe, bushbuck, kudu and impala put in appearances at the water’s edge. In the late afternoon a big herd of elephants came to slake their thirst from the pool in front of camp, and it was a difficult decision whether to stay in camp enjoying their antics or to head out into the wilderness for one final sundowner walk.

I am glad everyone decided to go out for that last walk in the wilderness with ranger guides Ndou and Rhulani, as it turned out to be the absolute highlight of an already memorable wilderness trail. We drove to the Milaleni area again, to enjoy a short walk to a waterhole in the bed of the Sweni before returning to a low rocky ridge from where we could appreciate another spectacular sunset.

We spotted the agitated elephant bull on the opposite bank of the Sweni as we got off the vehicle, but it seemed he was moving off and we weren’t too perturbed. Not ten minutes later, we had spotted another pride of lions, more relaxed and with slightly older cubs than those we saw that morning. With our attention focused on the lions as we crossed over to the other bank, we didn’t immediately notice that the elephant bull was still in the area and quite close (I’m sure the rangers knew he was there though). With head held high he was making it clear that we shouldn’t follow. And so we found ourselves between a huge and unfriendly elephant bull and a large pride of lions. Eventually the lions realised that we had seen them and the adults moved to cover, while the curious cubs did a poorer job at hiding. The elephant at our back had also moved on and satisfied with our viewing we moved away from the scene as well.

Ndou found a Magic Guarri bush and was busy telling us about how it could be used for anything from a useful toothbrush and fire-fighting tool, its uses in traditional medicine and how it wards of ghosts from your home, when the sounds of hippos rushing to water had us all alert. It seemed hippos have taken up residence at the waterhole to which we were heading and to add to the gravity of the situation Rhulani also reported that a herd of elephant was feeding around the waterhole. Our rangers then explained the dangerous situation in which we found ourselves as we had to pass the waterhole to get back to our vehicle at the sundowner spot. With the sun setting fast, we couldn’t wait the situation out and with the wind against us we couldn’t go back past the lions along the track we came. Having reminded us of the rules and what they expected from us, the rangers lead us closer to the pool.

Peering through the bush we could see a huge hippo bull standing tall in the water as Ndou took up position in the stream bed, facing Africa’s most dangerous mammal. There was simply no time for photos as Rhulani led us behind Ndou and up onto the opposite bank of the river. At this point, the herd of elephants became aware of our presence and sounded their dissatisfaction. Some of the herd, mostly cows with calves, thundered away while especially the younger males gave impressive threat displays. We in turn were following Rhulani in single file heading straight back to the vehicle at brisk pace as Ndou caught up from behind. What an adrenalin rush! Pretty soon a couple of jackals started yelping, probably complaining that the lions, elephants and hippos failed to deliver them some tasty morsels!

It was a supercharged group of trailists that clambered onto that rocky ridge that evening. The show however was not over. As we unpacked our snacks and opened our drinks, we all found a spot from where we could take in our final Sweni spectacular. With the glowing red of an African sunset surrounding us, the lions started roaring. You could feel their booming voices resonating in your chest. From a distance more lions started roaring, moving closer at speed. Must be the males coming to join the rest of the pride! Through binoculars in the fading light we could make out their shapes as they moved up the opposite bank. Every now and then a hippo would chime in with a grunt or an elephant’s trumpeting would silence the almost constant calling of the jackals. The sweet whistles of a fork-tailed drongo coming from a knob-thorn just behind us provided such contrast to the bellowing of the big mammals. And then, the rasping roar of a leopard, very close but out of sight, provided the closing notes to the African symphony. The curtains were drawn on one of the most memorable experiences I’ve ever had in South Africa’s wild places.

That night, after a delicious traditional meal of pap-en-braaivleis (barbecued meat with maize meal porridge) we reflected around the campfire about the experiences we shared the last couple of days, the professionalism and extraordinary knowledge of the two rangers that guided us, safely, through the Sweni wilderness, and the way the wilderness makes friends of strangers.

WIth heavy hearts we had to vacate the Sweni Trails Camp on Wednesday morning, to be delivered back to Satara and civilisation. A honey badger came to wish us goodbye at the camp, and after savouring James’ home-baked bread for the last time we’re on our way.

At Satara it is time to bid farewell to rangers Ndou and Rhulani and to newly made friends Verna, Sinmarie, Shareen, Hanneli, Ronel and Cerita. Four of the group would have a few more days in the Park, four of us (including Ansie and me) were headed to Orpen Gate and back to Pretoria, and the two rangers would that afternoon take a different group back with them to the wonderful Sweni Wilderness Trails Camp. How we envied those lucky souls!

Sweni Trail July 2015 (100)

Orpen Gate, and Sweni Wilderness Trail, to Pretoria via Lydenburg (map drawn with Google Maps)

The Sweni Wilderness Trail is one of seven operated by SANParks in the Kruger National Park.

The story of our three magical days on the Sweni trail is a perfect fit for the WordPress Weekly Photo Challenge “Today was a Good Day

Creepy

Africa’s scavenging animals; vultures, hyenas and jackals, never topped any list of the most popular animals, despite the crucial ecological function they perform.

Creepy” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge.

African Elephant

Loxodonta africana

The African elephant is one of our favourite animals, and every encounter we have with them is special and memorable. There’s just something so majestic in the confident swagger of the big bulls, so tender in the loving care of the cows and so playful in the antics of the calves.

Mature bulls weigh up to 6000kg and stand as high as 4m at the shoulder, while cows measure up to 3.4m high and weigh up to 4000kg. The forest elephant of Central Africa, a different race to those occuring here in South Africa, are much smaller.

The herd is the core of elephant society, and comprises an older, experienced, dominant female or matriarch, her sisters and daughters, and their calves of varying ages. Sometimes these smaller family units join up with others to create massive congregations of 200 or more animals. Elephants are active throughout the day and night, resting in the shade only during the hottest hours of the day, usually near water. Their intelligence is legendary and the close bonds between herd members, who look after their sick and dying kin as much as they can, has always been an inspiration to humans.

Mature bulls are mostly solitary, or accompanied by younger bulls known as “askaris”, and maintain a dominance hierarchy through threat displays and fights that would sometimes lead to the death of one of the combatants. After being forced from their maternal herds at the onset of puberty, around 15 years of age, bulls will only join up with the breeding herds again temporarily to mate.

Elephants are able to inhabit any habitat that has sufficient food, water and shade – they occur from the Namib Desert to Africa’s equatorial forests. They are big ecological drivers and a crucial component of the ecosystems in which they occur, having an immense impact on their environment. Their seemingly destructive feeding habits serves to prevent bush encroachment and provides niche habitats for a wide variety of smaller fauna. Consuming up to 300kg of plant material per day, the copious amounts of dung (about 100kg of dung per animal per day!) they produce provide an important source of food for a myriad of small animals, birds and insects. Elephants are not particularly fussy about what they eat and include herbs, grass, reeds, leaves, seeds, pods, bark, roots and branches in their diet, but they are rather fond of mopane trees and mlala palms.

During times of drought, elephants will dig wells in apparently dry river beds, thus providing water not only for themselves but also for all other wildlife in the vicinity. An adult elephant requires between 150 and 300 liters of drinking water daily. After years of continuous use, elephant mudbaths are enlarged and transformed into pans and waterholes that hold water for extended periods into the dry season. Several of South Africa’s passes were built along tracks used by countless generations of elephants to cross our mountains.

Elephant cows give birth to single calves (twins are extremely rare) at any time of year, after a 22-month gestation period. The calves weigh about 120kg at birth an can stand within an hour of being born. They are weaned at the age of two years, by which time they’ve become quite adept at using their trunks to feed and drink water.

South Africa’s wild places is home to several “Big Tuskers“; elephant bulls carrying exceptionally long and heavy ivory. Many of them are named, and become tourist attractions in their own right; living monuments to South Africa’s proud conservation history. The longest tusks recorded in South Africa, 3.05m and 3.17m, belonged to Shawu, a tusker from the Kruger National Park that became famous as one of the “Magnificent Seven” in the 1970’s and ’80’s. The heaviest belonged to Mandleve, who died in 1993 and was also from Kruger, with a combined weight of over 142kg.

Being one of Africa’s famed “Big 5“, elephants are a sought-after species for anyone visiting wildlife reserves where they occur. However, elephants are extremely dangerous and should be treated with the utmost respect. They can charge at speeds of between 40 and 50km/h, much faster than any human can run. Bulls in musth, a heightened state of aggressiveness fueled by elevated testosterone levels that drives their urge to mate and fight for dominance, are very irritable and will charge without much provocation. Mothers are extremely protective of their calves and you should never find yourself between a cow and her offspring. It is always best when viewing elephants to give them plenty of space and pay attention to any warning signs they may give: a head held high, ears held wide open, trunk tucked under the body, shaking the head and ears are all signs that you are too close and need to move away fast.

Adult elephants have little to fear from other animals, and lions and spotted hyenas are the only predators that realistically pose a threat to calves and juveniles. Most elephants succumb to fights, sickness, drought or old age. Old elephants spend most of their time feeding on green, soft vegetation along watercourses, due to them having worn our their last set of molars at about the age of 55 years, finding it increasingly difficult to feed on harder plant material. They then eventually die in these areas, possibly giving rise to the myth of an elephant graveyard.

Trio of pied kingfishers sharing an elephant bone

Trio of pied kingfishers sharing an elephant bone

The Kruger National Park protects South Africa’s biggest elephant population, and they are also a familiar sight in the Addo Elephant National Park, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, Mapungubwe National Park, Pilanesberg National Park and Tembe Elephant Park. Smaller populations have also been established on several other state and private reserves. The tiny population in the Knysna Forests in the Garden Route National Park has fascinated South Africans for decades, with lots of speculation and theories about just how many continue to roam there.

Today, elephants in Africa and Asia are faced with the threats of escalating poaching, habitat loss and various other conflicts with humans. With an estimated 100 African elephants killed daily for the illegal ivory trade in Asian markets, their population is in rapid decline. World Elephant Day was launched on August 12th, 2012, to bring attention to the plight of these iconic animals, and has been observed annually since.

WORLD ELEPHANT DAY LOGOS CIRCLE_2015 V2-1

World Lion Day

The 10th of August has been designated World Lion Day; “An independant campaign working to highlight the importance of the lion globally and to raise lion conservation awareness worldwide“.

These regal creatures are under immense threat, highlighted by the recent “hunting” of Cecil, a Zimbabwean lion known around the world and one of the subjects of a lion research project that’s been running for many years. Sadly, Cecil’s death was not an isolated incident and many more of his species die in this fashion daily. Hopefully, the quite justified uproar over the killing of this specific individual will result in change for the better, ensuring a brighter future for Africa’s biggest cat.

It will be a sad day indeed when the lion’s roar no longer rumbles across Africa’s wild places.

Last year we dedicated a special blogpost to the lion on World Lion Day.

World Lion Day

Another beautiful day at Royal Natal

Royal Natal definitely has some of the most spectacular scenery in the entire Drakensberg Range, and when you’re lucky to have the kind of beautiful weather we enjoyed here today, it really would be a sin to spend any time indoors!

Royal Natal 09-08-2015