For almost as long as he’s been able to talk, Joubert expressed a wish to go walking in the Kruger National Park. The challenge with that however was that children younger than twelve years old are not allowed to take part in the guided walks on offer, due to the danger and distances covered (and, I suppose in some cases, short attention spans).

However, at short notice we were made aware of availability on the Sweni Wilderness Trail – the most popular of the trails in Kruger – running from the 18th of August 2021 and, with that being Joubert’s 12 birthday it seemed a blessing straight out of heaven, too good to pass up even if it meant he’d have to miss a week of school…

Unfortunately work commitments meant Marilize wouldn’t be able to join us, so it was just the two de Wet boys that departed Pretoria on the 15th of August for our wilderness adventure. Over the past few weeks we showed you most of what we saw and experienced in the three days leading up to the trail as we traversed the southern reaches of the Kruger Park and then made our slow way up to Satara on the 18th of August.

Klipspringer

Elephant youngster wielding his weapon of choice

Sable Antelope bull

Baboon murder

Hamerkop at sunset

Black-backed Jackal

Hunting Cheetah

Lazy Leopard

Leaping Kudu

Lions at Orpen Rocks

It is at Satara Rest Camp that the ranger-guides meet their guests at the start of the Sweni Wilderness Trail, every Wednesday and Sunday. Having been introduced to our fellow trailists as well as rangers Orbet and Rhulani who’d be guiding the trail, and with all our luggage stowed in the trailer, it was finally time to get onto the open safari vehicle and head into the wilderness. With some wonderful sightings along the way it took us quite some time to cover the distance between Satara and the Sweni Trails camp, and so it is already almost dark when we arrive. Finally Joubert’s wish was coming true, and on his birthday no less.

Heading into the wilderness

Kori Bustard in flight (photo by Joubert)

Spotted Hyena family (photo by Joubert)

Spotted Hyena female showing off her tools (photo by Joubert)

Cute Spotted Hyena youngster (photo by Joubert)

Young Kudu bull (photo by Joubert)

The smile of a boy who’s wish came true

Guests spend three nights in a rustic, remote base camp on the southern bank of the Sweni stream, from where they are taken out into the wilderness on four guided walking excursions before being brought back to Satara at the end of the trail. Joubert and I were allocated the sleeping hut in the furthest corner of the camp. After settling in we all could sit down to the delicious cooking of James, the camp caretaker and chef, rounding off our meal with a slice of birthday cake before Orbet and Rhulani made us aware of the rules of walking in the wilderness in the days to come. Lions roaring nearby lulled us to sleep that night. What would tomorrow hold?

At sunrise, and after enjoying hot coffee and rusks, we were ready to set out exploring. A beautiful clear morning forewarned that it was going to be a hot day, so we made sure we had plenty to drink in our backpacks, in addition to the fare we’d be enjoying whilst having a picnic somewhere in the bush later.

Joubert, very excited in the early morning, before we set out from the Sweni Trail base camp

Brown-hooded Kingfisher in silhouette at dawn (photo by Joubert)

Impala’s crossing the two-spoor road leading from Sweni Wilderness Trails Camp (photo by Joubert)

A short drive westwards out of camp, and in the direction from where the lions were roaring the previous evening, brought us to the area where our ranger-guides determined we’d be walking this first morning. Our walk followed the course of the Sweni stream where the tracks of numerous animals around the remaining pools of water was a sure sign that we’d be encountering lots of wildlife on our morning amble.

Serene pool in the Sweni stream

Lion paw print on top of an elephant spoor

Walking single-file through the veld

Marula tree

Sweni stream

Sweni wilderness scenery

When we came across the lion pride feeding on their wildebeest kill, I was surprised at how close we were to them. Surprised and excited, and entirely unafraid. A good chance at having close encounters with lions while on foot is after all the reason why Sweni is the most sought-after wilderness trail offered in Kruger, and the rangers are experts at keeping their guests safe under such circumstances. One of the lioness were keeping a calm eye on the approaching humans, while the others – three more females, one male and seven cubs – were feeding entirely oblivious to our presence. That was until the male looked up. When he saw the humans just a stone’s throw from where he and his pride were feasting the great beast gave a mighty growl – and fled for his life! This sent the cubs fleeing in every direction while the females were immediately ready to go to war to protect their cubs and their prey. While one female slinked away to go round up the cubs, and the male turned around after a hundred meter dash to stare at us from  a distance, the three remaining females left us with no confusion that we were not welcome at their breakfast table. The intensity of their growls was like thunder rumbling from inside the earth; you could feel it resonating in your chest. With lightning in their eyes, their snarls exposing their deadly weaponry, ears pulled back and tails flicking from side to side there was only one way for us to go. Backwards. Slowly. Don’t turn your back on them, or they will charge. And when they do charge, stand still and face them. When she stops, you move backwards again. Slowly, without any sudden movements. And without turning your back! An amazing experience I will never forget. And I don’t believe Joubert will forget it either. No fear, just an amazing sense of respect and gratefulness for being there in the moment.

Lioness keeping an eye on us

Angry lioness

Cubs running for cover (photo by Joubert)

The cubs running for cover

The male left all the security arrangements to the females

Angry lioness (photo by Joubert)

A very angry lioness

Peaking over Joubert’s shoulder while he photographs the angry lionesses

Three very angry lionesses

Angry lionesses (photo by Joubert)

Getting ready to charge (photo by Joubert)

Lioness charging

Lying down after charging

After the exciting encounter with the lions we continue along the Sweni, criss-crossing it and its tributaries at several points, enjoying a well deserved picnic at a beautiful turn in the stream and just soaking in the wildness around us.

Funnel-web Spider nest

Wide-angle view on the Sweni plains

Blue wildebeest

Steenbok

A dry stretch of the Sweni stream bed

A dry stretch of the Sweni stream bed

One of the precious pools of water along the Sweni

Crossing the Sweni

Crossing the Sweni

Baboon

Impala (photo by Joubert)

Impalas

Beautiful pool of water on the Sweni

Marsh Terrapin

A look upstream along the Sweni

Just before we arrive back at the vehicle, and with the sun sitting very high and very hot already, we sneak up on a herd of elephants sleeping in the shade of a tree.

Sneaking up on sleeping elephants

Joubert posing with the elephants

Joubert posing with the elephants

The hot midday hours we spent in camp (after enjoying the delicious lunch James welcomed us back with). The waterhole in front of camp is a magnet for thirsty animals, there’s a lot of habituated birds attracted to the birdbath and there was even a brief appearance by a good-sized African Rock Python in one of the large trees next to the river, meaning there was more than enough entertainment to keep us occupied until the afternoon outing.

View from the Sweni Trails camp

This Nile Crocodile lays claim to the pool in front of the Sweni Wilderness Trail Camp

Bateleur in flight

Crested Francolin

Our little A-frame hut in the Sweni Wilderness Trails Camp

African Rock Python

African Rock Python (photo by Joubert)

Orange-breasted Bush-shrike

On the way to the area where we’d be walking in the afternoon, our guides took a detour to the feasting lions we encountered in the morning. They were still in the same spot, and still gnawing on the remains of their wildebeest prize. We didn’t venture off the vehicle this time, enjoying this meeting from even closer and much safer quarters.

Lioness (photo by Joubert)

Lioness and cubs (photo by Joubert)

Lioness and cub

Lioness surrounded by cubs

Lion cub

The big, but not so brave, male lion

The afternoon walks cover a shorter distance, and take in a pleasing spot from which the African sunset can be enjoyed with something cold in hand. While we didn’t cover as much ground in the afternoon we were again treated to an encounter with lions – this time a mating pair some distance away – as well as lots of other animals and inspiring scenery. From atop the rocky outcrop where we sat enjoying the sunset we also realised that the mating pair of lions were in fact a threesome – two males attending to one female in oestrus.

Secretary bird flying off

Giraffes peering from a clump of bushes

Sweni streambed

Sweni streambed

Walking into the setting sun

Elephant and lions in one shot (while on foot)

Crossing a wide stretch of the Sweni bed

“Climbing” to the top of the lookout

The third member of the threesome (photo by Joubert)

Lion pair

Sunset over the Sweni plains

Sunset over the Sweni plains

We arrive back at camp around 7pm that evening, but not before we enjoy some thrilling night time sightings along the way – and of course we paid “our” lions another visit!

African Civet (photo by Joubert)

African Civet

Lioness (photo by Joubert)

Lion with his cubs (photo by Joubert)

Tender moment between mommy and daddy (photo by Joubert)

Uroplectes vittatus; a species of venomous scorpion that often stings people carrying wood in Africa

The next morning is a lot chiller than the previous, and it soon clouds over. Our route takes along the Nungwini stream and past a natural fountain. Despite the inclement weather we again have wonderful encounters with a wide range of animals, including a lone male lion, elephant bulls, giraffes and honey badgers, and by the time the vehicle comes into sight again I’m sure all of us still had a good few kilometers in the tank.

Grey-headed Bush-shrike

Sunrise over the Sweni plains

Walking along

Greater Honeyguide

Honey Badger peeping at us

Honey Badger trying to slink away (photo by Joubert)

Suspicious giraffe

Big male lion keeping an eye on us

Beautiful elephant bull along the Nungwini (photo by Joubert)

Joubert eyeing an elephant while on foot

This fountain is a source of the Nungwini stream and very rarely dries up.

Stepping carefully over a pool in the Nungwini (where there are crocodiles!)

Crossing a stretch of the Nungwini stream

Elephant walking side-by-side with us

Walking towards the giraffes

Giraffes

Back at camp for lunch and (if you were so inclined) a siesta, a wildebeest bull harassing cows around the waterhole had Joubert happily clicking away, and later the little birds at the birdbath received his full attention.

Joubert at his post

Wildebeest pest (photo by Joubert)

Wildebeest pest (photo by Joubert)

Wildebeest pest (photo by Joubert)

Long-billed Crombec

Blue Waxbill

Green-winged Pytilia (photo by Joubert)

Jameson’s Firefinch (photo by Joubert)

Grey Heron swooping down (photo by Joubert)

On the way to our sundowner spot, Orbet and Rhulani took us to a beautiful stretch of water along the Nungwini stream, just a short walk away. We weren’t there very long, when we had to vacate our prime spot at the water’s edge to allow an approaching herd of elephants to have right of way.

Brown Snake Eagle

The hippo has the pool all to himself

Beautiful stretch of water on the Nungwini stream

Elephants waiting their turn at the water (photo by Joubert)

Elephants waiting their turn at the water (photo by Joubert)

Joubert aiming his lens at the elephants

Elephants waiting their turn at the water

Another pool along the Nungwini

The vehicle is in sight

Ted’s Place, a cliff in the foothills of the Lebombo Mountains looking out over the plains of the central Kruger Park with the course of the Sweni River snaking through the scene, was a fitting location to reflect on a memorable trail before heading back to base camp, where a pair of honey badgers were waiting for us to return.

Joubert at Ted’s Place

View from Ted’s Place

Father and son reminiscing about the special memories they collected in the wilderness

Large-spotted Genet

Uroplectes vittatus; a species of venomous scorpion that often stings people carrying wood in Africa

Honey Badger

It wasn’t easy to say goodbye to the Sweni Trail’s base camp that final morning, and the drizzly weather certainly reflected our mood. Aside from a wet family of spotted hyenas, there wasn’t a lot of animals to be seen along the road back to Satara.

One last shot of Joubert at the Sweni Wilderness Trail camp

Baby Spotted Hyena

Spotted Hyena

After saying goodbye to Orbet, Rhulani, James and the other guests that shared our experiences in the wilderness in those three short days, it was time for Joubert and me to head for home… Leaving through Orpen Gate really was our only option if we wanted to beat the government COVID-curfew, though we delayed our departure just a smidgeon by detouring past Muzandzeni Picnic Site and Talamati Bushveld Camp.

Waterbuck at Nsemani Dam

Elephant on the plains west of Satara

Immature Saddle-billed Stork

Plains Zebras

Waterhole at Talamati

Green, or Red-billed, Wood-hoopoe

Bushbuck ewe (photo by Joubert)

Tawny Eagles feasting on a monitor lizard (photo by Joubert)

Kudu cow (photo by Joubert)

We were already quite some distance out the gate at Orpen, and passing one of the many game farms along the road, when we saw a leopard next to the fence of one of these farms. While we were still despondent about no longer being in Kruger this unexpected find made us realise all over again that we were still in Africa, which means we’re more blessed than 6.5-billion other people on earth…

Joubert photographing a leopard inside a game farm along the road, Hoedspruit district, South Africa

Leopard inside a game farm along the road, Hoedspruit district, South Africa