Tag Archives: view sites

West Coast Fossil Park

Phosphate mining near Langebaan on South Africa’s West Coast unearthed a rich find of fossils belonging to some 200 different kinds of animals dating back to about 5-million years. At this time the area looked very different from what it does today, with the sub-tropical riverine forests and wooded savanna roamed by relatives of today’s elephants, short-necked giraffes, hippos, three-toed horses, hyenas, sabre-toothed cats and even an African bear! The West Coast Fossil Park is a declared national heritage site and the visitor centre and a preserved portion of the actual dig site gives a fascinating glimpse into this prehistoric world. A small curio shop and restaurant is also available on the premises. There’s an extensive network of hiking and mountain bike trails available at the fossil park for those interested in experiencing the fauna and flora that currently occur in this part of our country.

Entrance to the West Coast Fossil Park

West Coast Fossil Park

Displays of actual fossils in the West Coast Fossil Park

Interesting information on display at the fossil bed

The wonderfully done Sivatherium sculpture is the focal point of the visitor centre

One of several interesting dioramas on display in the visitor centre

Not everything at the West Coast Fossil Park has turned to rock – this is a dark-morph Common Buzzard flying over the centre

Two beetles feasting on a daisy-like flower

Remember that DeWetsWild can assist you with bookings if you are planning a visit to the West Coast – either in the West Coast National Park or at the Port Owen Marina in nearby Velddrif.

West Coast National Park

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Saldanha Bay and the Langebaan Lagoon on South Africa’s West Coast was formed as few as 9,000 years ago when the Atlantic Ocean breached the barrier dunes along the coast. Langebaan Lagoon – 15km long, between 1 and 4km wide and up to 6m deep – is still marine in nature, not receiving any fresh water from inflowing rivers, and subject to the oceanic tides. The lagoon with its crystal clear water is renowned as a refuge for wading birds, many of which migrate here in our summer months – with more than 70,000 counted at times! – and a staggering array of marine life, and was proclaimed a marine nature reserve in 1973. It attained the status of a national park in 1985 and, following the incorporation of more land adjacent to the lagoon from 1987 onwards the name was changed from Langebaan National Park to West Coast National Park in 1988. In the same year the Park was given recognition as a wetland of international importance in terms of the Ramsar convention.

Today, the Park covers 400km² of which the lagoon accounts for 56km². Aside from the 30km of pristine Atlantic coastline (known as Sixteen Mile Beach) and a few offshore islands the rest is undulating sandy terrain broken by a few limestone and granite outcrops and covered by a rich variety of Fynbos vegetation communities and South Africa’s most extensive salt marshes. All this is inhabited by at least 54 land mammal species, over 300 bird species, more than 30 kinds of reptiles and 8 kinds of amphibians, not to mention the several hundred species of marine creatures. The Park is a stronghold for the Black Harrier (an endangered species) and African Oystercatcher and hosts the largest breeding colony of Kelp Gull in South Africa. Most of the Park’s preciously little 280mm average annual rainfall occurs in winter, when daytime temperatures average 19ºC. In summer, temperatures may soar above 40ºC but averages around 28ºC.

Angulate Tortoise

Male Southern Black Korhaan

Cape Spurfowl

White-backed Mousebird

Cape Spurfowl

Grey-winged Francolin

Black Harrier (photo by Joubert)

Ostrich pair

Sea Lavender (Limonium species)

White-throated Canary

Steppe, or Common, Buzzard

Steenbok

Female Yellow Canary

Black-winged Kite

Wattled Starling

Eland

Ostrich pair

Common Starlings

Steenbok

Bontebok

Ostrich male

A view of iconic Table Mountain all the way from the West Coast National Park

The Park’s focal point is the Geelbek Manor, a restored farmhouse in Cape Dutch style complete with its outbuildings that date back to 1860. The farm was settled much longer before then though and around the 1750’s was the northernmost point of Dutch influence under the Dutch East India Company’s occupation of the Cape of Good Hope, marked to this day by the VOC logo on a stone beacon erected by their representatives that can be seen at Geelbek. The homestead now houses a top-notch restaurant, while the stables have been converted into a dormitory and educational facility for visiting school groups. A replica of a set of fossilized footprints found in the area, dated to 117,000 years ago and dubbed “Eve’s footprints”, can be seen in the small information centre next to the restaurant (the original footprints are to be seen in the National Museum in Cape Town).

The VOC (Dutch East India Company) marker near Geelbek

Sunrise at Geelbek in the West Coast National Park

Geelbek Manor

The historic Geelbek Manor, now a restaurant

Sunset at Geelbek in the West Coast National Park

Geelbek’s stables have been converted to dormitories and educational facilities

Replica of “Eve’s Footprints” in the information centre at Geelbek

Barn Owl

Barn Swallow

Bontebok

Cape Hare

Cape Spurfowl (photo by Joubert)

Cape Weaver (photo by Joubert)

Clicking Stream Frog

Eland

Marbled Leaf-toed Gecko

Sunrise over the plain at Geelbek

Mole Snake (photo by Joubert)

Pied Crows

Rock Kestrel

Rock Martin

African Sacred Ibis

Speckled Pigeon

Spider webs

The two birdwatching hides at Geelbek is rated among the best in the country, and with good reason. At low tide the mud flats in front of the hides attract thousands of wading birds after invertebrate prey, and the walk ways leading to both allow a closer view of the community of plants and invertebrates in the extensive salt marshes.

The southern of the two hides at Geelbek

The northern of the two hides at Geelbek

Salt marsh in the West Coast National Park, dominated by Perennial Glasswort

Perennial Glasswort

African Oystercatcher

Kittlitz’s Plover

Lesser Flamingoes (photo by Joubert)

Shore Crab (photo by Joubert)

Greater Flamingo (photo by Joubert)

Sanderling

Kittlitz’s Plover

Common Whimbrel

The mud flats exposed at Geelbek on the low tide

Greater Flamingoes

Grey Plover

Kelp Gull

Greater Flamingoes

Cape Teal

Little Stint

Three-banded Plover

Female Southern Double-collared Sunbird

Flock of Ruddy Turnstones (photo by Joubert)

Congregation of hundreds of birds at Geelbek

Pied Avocets

Curlew Sandpipers

Egyptian Goose (photo by Joubert)

White-fronted Plover

Little Stint

Kittlitz’s Plover

Common Whimbrel

Little Egret

Greater Flamingo in flight

Greater Flamingo

Sanderling

Common Ringed Plover

Common Whimbrels

Common Greenshanks

Curlew Sandpiper

Wattled Starling

Kittlitz’s Plover

Greater Flamingoes

Pied Avocets

Common Ringed Plover

Grey Plover

Driving between the town of Langebaan and Geelbek visitors should not miss the turnoff to the Seeberg (Sea Mountain) viewpoint. From atop the massive granite boulder you can see almost every corner of the lagoon and most of the national park. In the little house built on the boulder – at one point actually inhabited – is a fascinating display on the history of the area.

Steenbok

Female Southern Black Korhaan

Karoo Scrub Robin

Seeberg viewpoint

The viewpoint and information room at Seeberg

The view from Seeberg towards Postberg on the opposite side of the Langebaan Lagoon

The view southwards from atop Seeberg

Rock Dassies (or Hyraxes)

Black Girdled Lizard

Common Starling (photo by Joubert)

Grey-winged Francolin

Steenbok

Below Seeberg, on the shores of the lagoon, is another bird-watching hide from where the multitude of waterbirds can be watched from close quarters.

Seeberg Hide looks like a ship at a distance

A portion of the view from the Seeberg Birdhide

Salt marsh in the West Coast National Park, dominated by Perennial Glasswort

Cape Fur Seal swimming in the Langebaan Lagoon

Curlew Sandpipers

Common Ringed Plovers

Caspian Tern

Kittlitz’s Plover

Immature Kittlitz’s Plover

White-fronted Plover

Medusa’s Head Euphorbia

Suspect this is a kind of Erica

White-throated Swallows

Seeberg seen from the hide of the same name

While there’s no shortage of salt water in the West Coast National Park, fresh water is a rare commodity. One of the few sources is the Abrahamskraal waterhole, where the excellent birdwatching hide allows visitors to see a whole different community of birds and animals.

The hide at Abrahamskraal waterhole in West Coast National Park

The Abrahamskraal waterhole in West Coast National Park

African Stonechat

African Swamphen

Black-winged Stilt

Cape Shoveler

Cape Teal

Common Greenshank

Eland

Kelp Gull (photo by Joubert)

Little Grebe

African Spoonbill

White-throated Swallow

Yellow-billed Ducks

Yellow-billed Duck

On the western shore of the lagoon is the beautiful beaches of Kraalbaai and Preekstoel, complete with white sand and yachts and houseboats bobbing on the crystal clear water.

Kraalbaai on the Langebaan Lagoon

The white beaches and clear water of the Langebaan Lagoon

The beach at Preekstoel

Preekstoel (Pulpit)

The beach at Preekstoel

a Hartlaub’s Gull in the crystal clear water of the Langebaan Lagoon

Cape Bulbul

Cape Bunting

Cape Robin-Chat

Karoo Prinia

Karoo Scrub Robin

Female Dusky Sunbird

Tsaarsbank is a rocky beach on the Atlantic Ocean that faces out towards Vondeling Island, which is jam-packed with a colony of Cape Fur Seals and a myriad of seabirds – they even make themselves at home inside and on top of the abandoned buildings dating back to the times when whaling was a major industry in Saldanha.

Atlantic Ocean at Tsaarsbank

Vondeling Island teems with seals and seabirds

Crowned Cormorant

Ruddy Turnstone

Kelp Gulls facing the waves

Shells accumulating on the beach at Tsaarsbank

Seashells on the seashore

Shells accumulating on the beach at Tsaarsbank

Mussel shells and a dead crab that was deposited on the beach at Tsaarsbank

Crowned Cormorants

Young Cape Fur Seal on the beach at Tsaarsbank

African Oystercatcher

Unidentified shrub at West Coast National Park

African Oystercatcher

A seal skull on the beach at Tsaarsbank

A mummified seal carcass on the beach at Tsaarsbank

Immature Kelp Gull

Hartlaub’s Gull

White-necked Raven

Exposed sand dunes at the back of Tsaarsbank

Unfortunately for us, the Postberg section of the Park is only open to visitors in August and September at the peak of the spring flower season, so we will have to return then to explore that area beyond the glimpses we had from the road leading to Tsaarsbank.

Bontebok grazing in the Postberg section of the West Coast National Park

During our visit to the West Coast National Park in December ’22 we stayed in the Van Breda Cottage just behind the Geelbek Manor. The historic cottage sleeps six people in three bedrooms, with a bathroom, fully equipped kitchen and spacious lounge. The wide stoep has a built-in braai and a lovely view towards the lagoon. Other accommodation options available in the Park include the Abrahamskraal Cottage, situated among the fynbos to the south of Geelbek, Jo-Anne’s Beach House, located beautifully with a view of the lagoon on the narrow spit of land between the lagoon and the ocean in the west of the Park, and the 2-bed Steytler Cottage at the Geelbek Manor. Remember that DeWetsWild can assist you with bookings if you are planning a visit to the West Coast National Park – either in the Park itself or at the Port Owen Marina in nearby Velddrif. Visitors to the Park can enjoy various adventure activities provided by operators in the surrounding towns, enjoy hiking or mountain bike trails, diving and swimming in the lagoon or at the beaches, or sightseeing along the excellent tar and gravel road network. Picnic sites with braai (South African barbeque) facilities are available at Tsaarsbank and Preekstoel.

Van Breda Cottage in the West Coast National Park, December 2022

Abrahamskraal Cottage

Steytler Cottage

While the West Coast National Park has no shop and only the one restaurant at Geelbek, the holiday town of Langebaan just outside the northern entrance gate into the Park has all the amenities visitors might require. The West Coast National Park is easily accessible from Cape Town, less than an hours drive away along the R27 highway.

Cape Columbine Nature Reserve

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Declared in December 1973, the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve covers 263 hectares of beautiful rocky and wild Atlantic coastline and endangered Sandveld Fynbos vegetation, which it is claimed is an absolute delight to behold in the spring flower season – we’ll have to visit again then to confirm! The reserve offers hiking trails and the possibility to kayak, fish, dive for crayfish, scuba or – if you are brave enough to enter the cold water – swimming. Picnic areas are available for day visitors. What the reserve lacks in the way of large animals it more than makes up for in awe-inspiring scenery and a rich variety of birds and smaller creatures.

Cape Cormorants flying over the coast at Cape Columbine

Swift and Common Terns on a rock at Cape Columbine

Scenery at Cape Columbine

Seal solony on offshore rocks at Cape Columbine

Camping along the coast at Cape Columbine

Scenery at Cape Columbine

Ruddy Turnstone

Karoo Girdled Lizard

Scenery at Cape Columbine

Sea Lavender (Limonium species)

Scenery at Cape Columbine

Sea Lavender (Limonium species) among other hardy West Coast plants

Cape Gannets flying off the shore at Cape Columbine

Cape Grey Mongoose

Sea Lavender (Limonium species) among other hardy West Coast plants

The Cape Columbine Lighthouse inside the reserve was the last South African lighthouse built to be manually controlled (it dates back to 1936). Apparently this lighthouse is usually the first seen by incoming ships from Europe and the Americas on their way to Table Bay and the Cape of Good Hope and its light is visible up to 50km away.

Cape Columbine Lighthouse

The camping area at Tietiesbaai has ablution blocks with hot water and flush toilets available for campers pitching their tents or caravans on one of the 60 available campsites (no electrical points at the sites though).

Camping at Tietiesbaai

Fur Seal mummy on the rocks at Tietiesbaai

African Oystercatchers

Tietiesbaai

Cape Cormorants in flight

African Oystercatchers

Tietiesbaai

Tietiesbaai (photo by Joubert)

Crowned Cormorant

Can you spot the Karoo Prinia among the mussel shells? (photo by Joubert)

Four-striped Grass Mouse (photo by Joubert)

Kelp Gull flying away with stolen bait (photo by Joubert)

Kelp Gull feasting on stolen bait

The Cape Columbine Nature Reserve and the camping area at Tietiesbaai is managed by the Saldanha Bay Municipality. Rustic accommodation is available inside the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, but remember that DeWetsWild can also assist you with bookings if you are planning a visit to the West Coast – either in the West Coast National Park or at the Port Owen Marina in nearby Velddrif. The Seekombuis is a restaurant specialising in sea food located right at the reserve’s entrance, which is less than 2km along a gravel road outside the very pretty West Coast town of Paternoster, where there are shops and other restaurants available too.

Paternoster

Karoo Menagerie

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The Karoo National Park is an incredibly diverse conservation area, despite its arid nature, and while the flash floods is undoubtedly the part of our December 2022 visit to this park we will remember most vividly, the Karoo still dished up so much more for us (which it usually does)!

Ground Agama male displaying in small bush

Kudu bull

Red Hartebeest

Karoo Korhaan

Abandoned ostrich egg

White-backed Mousebird

South African Shelducks

Red Hartebeest

Unidentified blooms (perhaps a kind of everlasting)

Kudu cow

Immature Southern Fiscal

Black-backed Jackal

Ground Agama

Variegated Skink

Namaqua Dove

Karoo Chat

Bokmakierie

Huge herd of Eland on the plains of Lammertjiesleegte

Black Rhino

Black Rhino family

Unidentified Blooms

Southern Masked Weaver displaying

Red Bishops (photo by Joubert)

Red-winged Starling (photo by Joubert)

Lark-like Bunting

Steenbok

Pale Chanting Goshawk

Black-backed Jackal (photo by Joubert)

Red-faced Mousebird (photo by Joubert)

Early morning in the Karoo

Karoo Prinia (photo by Joubert)

Rufous-eared Warbler

Remember that DeWetsWild can assist you with reservations in the Karoo National Park if you are planning a visit to this special place. During our December 2022 visit we slept one night in chalet 17 – an open plan unit with kitchenette, bathroom, two single beds and a sleeper couch – in the main camp. We also enjoyed two wonderful meals in the restaurant, and bought a few gifts and snacks in the amply-stocked shop.

Chalet #17 in Karoo National Park, December 2022

Boxing Morning in De Hoop

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We hope everyone that celebrated yesterday had a wonderful Christmas with family and friends.

We spent much of today exploring the beautiful and diverse De Hoop Nature Reserve. Of course we’ll tell you much more about De Hoop soon!

De Hoop Nature Reserve, 26 December 2022

De Hoop Nature Reserve

Koppie Alleen Beach in De Hoop Nature Reserve

Seeing more of Cape Town

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We’ve spent the whole day exploring Cape Town’s scenic attractions – from Chapman’s Peak Drive to a seal tour out of Hout Bay, to a picnic in Tokai and a ride up-and-down Cape Point with the Flying Dutchman funicular (and many points in between). Lots to tell you about when we’re back home!

Hout Bay from Chapman’s Peak Drive

Hout Bay harbour

Cape Fur Seals

The Flying Dutchman Funicular is a convenient way to travel up to the Cape Point lighthouse

Looking out over the Cape of Good Hope

Bontebok on the beach at Buffelsbaai in the Table Mountain National Park

A rainy day spent on the Western Shores of Lake Saint Lucia

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The Western Shores section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park was opened to visitors a lot more recently than most other parts of the Park, and in many ways it is still being rehabilitated to its natural state – in fact there are still several exotic eucalyptus plantations in this area that still need to be harvested.

Just about 2km outside of St. Lucia town, on the main road to Mtubatuba, visitors will find the Dukuduku Gate providing quick and easy access to this interesting area. Unfortunately during our visit early in November Charter’s Creek was off limits due to flooding, but there’s other very rewarding areas where visitors can stretch their legs at: uBhejane Picnic Spot, kuMgandankawu Hide and uMthoma Aerial Boardwalk. The road network, while still rather limited, provides access to various interesting habitats and the birds and animals that find refuge there.

Buffalo at sunrise

Blue Wildebeest

Waterbuck bull(seye)

Bluegum Plantation on the Western Shores of Lake Saint Lucia

Yellow-throated Longclaw

Waterbuck bull

Giraffes

Giraffe youngster

A serene corner of uBhejane Picnic Site

Young African Jacana

Blue Wildebeest and Bluegum plantation on the Western Shores of Lake Saint Lucia

Crested Francolin

Tailor Ant nest

Pathway to the uMthoma Aerial Boardwalk

uMthoma Aerial Boardwalk

View from the uMthoma Aerial Boardwalk towards the marshes on the banks of Lake Saint Lucia

Female Spectacled Skimmer dragonfly

Nyala bull

Tailor Ants

Broad-billed Roller

Kwelamadoda Pan on the Western Shores of Lake Saint Lucia

Giraffe bull

Yellow Floating Heart

African Jacana

Black-bellied Bustard in soaring display flight

Spur-winged Geese

White-faced Whistling Ducks

Family of White-faced Whistling Ducks

Collared Pratincole

Looking out over Lake Saint Lucia and the forested dunes on Indian Ocean coast

Hamerkop close-up

Bushbuck ram

Typical scenery on the Western Shores of Lake Saint Lucia

Wild Date Palms

Buffalo Bulls and Red-billed Oxpeckers

Alert young Buffalo bull

Buffalo calf

African Marsh Harrier coursing over Kwelamadoda Pan

Blue Water Lily

Fulvous Whistling Ducks

Great White Egret struggling to swallow a Tilapia

Lesser Striped Swallow

Reed Cormorant at the uMphathe Bridge

Southern Reedbuck ram

Papyrus flowerhead

If you are interested in visiting St. Lucia and the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, remember that De WetsWild can assist you with reservations in the Eden Park and Sugarloaf Campsites in town or at wonderful Cape Vidal set on the Indian Ocean in the Eastern Shores section of the Park.

Mapungubwe National Park

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The treasure we know today as the Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site has a troubled recent history. In 1918 already the corner of our country where the borders of South Africa, Botswana (then the British protectorate of Bechuanaland) and Zimbabwe (then still the British colony of South Rhodesia) met was set aside as a botanical reserve due to the area’s unique plant communities. It soon became known as the Dongola Botanical Reserve. In March 1947, with its size much reduced to placate the local farming community, the South African government proclaimed the Dongola Game Reserve at the confluence of the Shashe and Limpopo Rivers. A change in government the following year however resulted in the fledgling conservation area being deproclaimed in its entirety almost immediately. A tiny portion of it, surrounding the Mapungubwe Hill, became a provincial nature reserve, Vhembe, in 1967. Then, in 1995, with South Africa now a multiracial democracy and Botswana and Zimbabwe independent countries in their own right, and after many years of a strict military presence on the border, this arid corner of our country was once again afforded the highest level of protection as the Vhembe-Dongola National Park. In September 2004, the park was opened to visitors and renamed the Mapungubwe National Park, in recognition of the fact that this area and its rich cultural heritage centred on Mapungubwe Hill was inscribed as a World Heritage Site the year before.

Misty morning along the Limpopo River

Interesting rock formation in Mapungubwe

Mapungubwe scenery

High hills towering over fertile plains

A herd of wildebeest in the foreground appears tiny in Mapungubwe’s vastness

Mapungubwe’s human history dates back to hundreds of years before the colonial period however and is extremely fascinating. Visits to the interpretive centre near the gate and the archeological site on Mapunguwe Hill are not to be missed. Read more about it here.

Mapungubwe’s interpretative centre has a model of the famous golden rhino

Mapungubwe Hill seen from the northwest

Today, Mapungubwe covers 28,000 hectares and consists of two distinct parts, with private farming land isolating the two sections. Both sections adjoin the Limpopo River; the eastern portion is rugged and hilly – with beautiful baobab trees – while the western section is flat and dominated by a very different community of plants. Mapungubwe’s an arid place, with average annual rainfall below 400mm and summer temperatures that easily soar above 40°C.

Impala Lily (photo by Joubert)

Bushveld Candelabra Euphorbias

Eland silhouette in Mapungubwe National Park

Mapungubwe Baobabs

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Iconic Mapungubwe: baobabs, elephants and rocky outcrops

Poacher’s Corner is an especially beautiful stretch of road through the riverine forest on the southern bank of the Limpopo.

Tree-lined banks of the Limpopo River at Poacher’s Corner

A rainy day at Poacher’s Corner

Cliffs on the Zimbabwe side of the border loom over the Limpopo River

Poacher’s Corner, on the Limpopo River

Near Poacher’s Corner is Zebra Pan, itself a delightful place to park your vehicle and gawk at the constant stream of wildlife

Zebra Pan near Poacher’s Corner

The Maloutswa Pan and Hide in the west of the Park is yet another great spot to spend a few peaceful hours waiting for the birds and animals to come quench their thirst within easy reach of your lens.

The Hide at Maloutswa Pan

Maloutswa Pan

Wildebeest and impala nervously approaching Maloutswa Pan

Set atop a hill several lookout decks have been constructed from which to view the confluence of the Shashe and Limpopo Rivers where the borders of the three countries meet. Near the car park there are also a few picnic tables and braai (barbeque) stands which are very popular with visitors to Mapungubwe.

Meeting place for three countries: The confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers

Limpopo River at sunrise

A deck with a view over the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers

The Picnic Area at the Confluence Viewpoint

The Treetop Walk on the bank of the Limpopo River is another place visitors to Mapungubwe National Park should not miss.

Elephants at the Treetop Walk

Mapungubwe’s Treetop Walk on the bank of the Limpopo River

Mapunbuwe is home to a rich variety of wildlife, with records indicating a tally of 34 fish species, as many as 36 kinds of frogs, up to 75 species of reptiles, 460+ species of birds and 94 species of mammals, including the famed “Big 5“.

Kudus, wildebeest and zebras mingling in Mapungubwe National Park

Nile Monitor (photo by Joubert)

Southern African Tree Squirrel

Plains Zebras in Mapungubwe National Park (photo by Joubert)

Large-spotted Genet (photo by Joubert)

Fully grown elephant bull (photo by Joubert)

Mating pair of Lions

Pel’s Fishing Owl (photo by Joubert)

Lilac-breasted Roller (photo by Joubert)

Meves’s Starling

Yellow-spotted and Cape Rock Hyrax sharing the sun in Mapungubwe

Mocking Cliff Chat

Gemsbok

Crested Barbet (photo by Joubert)

Lappet-faced Vulture (photo by Joubert)

White-fronted Bee-eater (photo by Joubert)

Steenbok ewe

Blue Wildebeest in Mapungubwe National Park

Warthog in Mapungubwe National Park

Kudu Bull

Rough-scaled Plated Lizard (photo by Joubert)

Newly born Giraffe calf with its mother

Eland bull in Mapungubwe National Park

Banded Mongoose

Baboons in Mapungubwe National Park (photo by Joubert)

Black Crake

Kudu Bull

Impala (photo by Joubert)

The South African National Parks provides an assortment of self-catering accommodation options in Mapunguwe National Park, ranging from camping sites at Mazhou in the riverine forest along the Limpopo River to the top-of-the-range Tshugulu Lodge. Remember that DeWetsWild can assist you with your reservations for a visit to Mapungubwe. Guided drives and walks, including visits to the Mapungubwe archeological site, can be booked at reception, while there are several gravel roads available for exploration in your own vehicle (even more if you have a 4×4). Simple meals and firewood is available from the interpretive centre, but the nearest available fuel, and other services, to the Park is in the towns of Alldays or Musina, both about 70km from the gate.

Cottage #18 in Leokwe Rest Camp, Mapungubwe National Park, June 2022

View from Cottage #18 in Leokwe Rest Camp

Leokwe’s swimming pool

Leokwe Rest Camp

Limpopo Forest Tented Camp

Mazhou Camping Area

Vhembe Wilderness Camp

Tshugulu Lodge

Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site lies right at South Africa’s northernmost corner, roughly 470km north of our capital Pretoria.

Location of Mapungubwe National Park (Google Maps)

Limpopo Ramble 2022: Eastern Rock Sengi

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During our recent visit to Marakele National Park, while enjoying the magnificent view from the Lenong Viewpoint, we spied a little Eastern Rock Sengi basking in the early morning sun – a habit they are particularly fond of – behind a fence surrounding one of the communication towers also built atop the mountain. While the fence is a rather irritating obtrusion in these photo’s of ours, it is probably because of it that the Sengi felt comfortable enough to be out and about, safe in the knowledge that neither us humans nor any other predator could reach it!

Eastern Rock Elephant Shrew at Lenong Viewpoint in Marakele National Park

Eastern Rock Sengi, or Elephant Shrew, at Lenong Viewpoint in Marakele National Park

Eastern Rock Elephant Shrew at Lenong Viewpoint in Marakele National Park

Eastern Rock Elephant Shrew at Lenong Viewpoint in Marakele National Park (photo by Joubert)

Elephantulus myurus

The Sengis, or Elephant Shrews, (order Macroscelidea) are a family of 20 small, insectivorous mammal species occurring only in Africa. While they’re superficially very shrew-like they are in fact not related to shrews at all (and they are in fact more closely related to elephants, even if their “trunks” aren’t nearly as long and prehensile), which is why the scientific community is trying to move away from the old moniker in favour of Sengi, a name based in indigenous African languages.

The Eastern Rock Elephant Shrew, or Sengi then, occurs widely in South Africa’s northern and eastern provinces and throughout Zimbabwe, extending into portions of Lesotho, Eswatini, Botswana and Mozambique south of the Zambezi. The IUCN considers it to be of least concern.

As suggested by its name, the Eastern Rock Sengi is always found in close association with rocky areas where they hide in cracks and tiny caves among the boulders. Here they subsist on a diet that consist of insects (mainly ants and termites) and other invertebrates, though they will also eat seeds. They are diurnal, very rarely venturing out in the dark. They are also very alert and nervous, usually dashing for cover at the slightest disturbance.

Eastern Rock Sengi’s are mainly solitary and seen in pairs only while they breed during spring and summer. Females usually give birth to twins after a two-month long gestation. The young are very well developed and can move around with their mother soon after birth. Fully grown, Eastern Rock Sengi’s measure about 26cm long (of which the tail is more than half) and weigh approximately 60g. They have a very short lifespan and may live to only around 18 months of age in the wild.

Limpopo Ramble 2022: The Land of the Giants

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In the Mapungubwe National Park, three aspects are truly iconic of this landscape: Elephants, baobabs, and rocky hills and cliffs. It’s as if the entire atmosphere of the Park hinges on these key natural attributes.

Mapungubwe, situated as it is at the place where the borders of South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe meet, has a high population of elephants and especially so when the dry season concentrate the behemoths along the banks of the Limpopo River. From families of cows and tiny calves to enormous bulls can all be expected along any of the roads traversing the Park, and sometimes waiting for these charismatic animals to clear the way can be a very entertaining delay. At other times, the dense mopane veld may lead to you inadvertently finding yourself in the personal space of one of the giants and they might react with more than a little agitation!

Angry elephant (photo by Joubert)

Elephant cow with her herd (photo by Joubert)

Elephant cow and calf crossing the road (photo by Joubert)

Elephant cow

Young elephant bulls testing their mettle

Adult elephant bull

Big elephant bull reaching for tasty leaves

Elephant youngster (photo by Joubert)

Fully grown elephant bull (photo by Joubert)

Most impressive elephant bull foraging along the Limpopo (photo by Joubert)

Young elephant bull scaling a rocky outcrop

Elephant cow

Fully grown elephant bull (photo by Joubert)

The Elephants even move through Mapungubwe’s unfenced main camp Leokwe, as we experienced one evening upon arriving at out cottage.

Elephants in Leokwe (photo by Joubert)

Baobabs are the undisputable rulers of Mapungubwe’s plant kingdom. With this part of the world now firmly in Winter’s grip, the trees are mostly leafless, lending more credence to the myth that the Creator tossed them to earth, planting them upside down. Elephants have a paticular liking for the pulpy wood of the baobab, and many of Mapungubwe’s trees show damage as a result, leading to the Park authorities protecting some prime specimens by using wire as wrapping around their trunks (those of the trees, not those of the elephants 😉 )

Baobab showing elephant damage

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Beautiful Baobab

Look carefully to notice the wire wrapped around this Baobab’s trunk to prevent further elephant damage

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Baobab atop one of Mapungubwe’s hills

An enormous Baobab towering above the plains

One of Mapungubwe’s roads hugging a Baobab

Young Baobab

Mapungubwe Baobabs

An enormous Baobab towering above the mopane

Mapungubwe Baobab

Mapungubwe Baobabs

An enormous Baobab towering above the plains

Baobabs dotting the Mapungubwe landscape

Baobabs on a hillside with dark clouds looming

A huge Baobab growing in the tiniest of spots among the rocks

A most impressive Baobab!

On the largest scale of all, it is the rocky, hilly landscapes that really forms the basis of Mapungubwe’s ancient atmosphere. The hills are composed mainly of dolerite – the remains of molten rock pushed up from deep inside the earth through sandstone that has long since weathered away to leave only the harder volcanic geology visible.