Tag Archives: Umlalazi 2016

The fascinating world of Umlalazi’s Mangroves

No other kinds of tree are as well adapted to an existence in salty, tidal estuaries as the mangroves. Their roots are specifically adapted to not only anchor them in the muddy substrate but also allow them to “breathe” by sticking up above the mud and prevents the tree from drowning. Known as “pneumatophores”, these roots look different in the various genera of mangroves – those of the white mangrove (Avicennia marina) look like pencils sticking straight up out of the mud, the black mangrove (Bruguiera gymnorrhiza) has knee-like structures protruding before going back into the mud, and the red mangrove (Rhizophora mucronata) grow “struts” straight from the trunk. They have to contend with excessive salt in their tissues, and concentrates this in old leaves that are continuously shed and replaced. Mangrove fruit are also very interesting; seeds germinate while still attached to the flower, and some, like the black and red mangroves, even grow a cigar-shaped “root”, or “hypocotyl”, that is designed to anchor the seed in the muddy substrate when it drops from the tree.

These adaptations of the mangroves benefit the entire ecosystem by trapping silt, stabilising the substrate, and feeding the food chain. Mangrove snails (Cerithidea decollata) cling to the trunks of the trees during high tide, safely out of reach of estuarine fish that move in with the tide. At low tide, they then descend to feed on the muddy surface. Crabs abound in the mangroves. Sesarma is a genus of land-based crab that digs holes up to 2m deep into the mud and avidly collects fallen leaves into their burrows. Fiddler crabs (Uca-species), known for the males having one enormous pincer which which they display to one another and to interested females, feed by rolling scoops of mud into balls in their mouths, with the discarded balls leaving tell-tale trails where the crab has moved. Mudskippers, those uniquely adapted amphibious fish that seem to be as at home out of the water as in it, must be among the most curious of the mangrove swamps’ denizens. Estuaries in general and mangrove stands in particular are extremely important refuges and nurseries for several kinds of fish and crustaceans, making their protection an economic imperative if fisheries are to be sustained into the future and highlighting the value of conserved areas like Umlalazi.

Many kinds of wading birds feed on the rich invertebrate fauna in a mangrove swamp, with the woolly-necked stork being the most obvious at Umlalazi. The reserve’s mangroves also forms an important winter habitat for the mangrove kingfisher. Mangrove swamps, with their dense stands of trees and muddy terrain, are difficult areas for large mammals, with the exception of monkeys, to utilise.

At Umlalazi, a boardwalk constructed through a mangrove swamp allows easy access to this fascinating world – if you have only a little bit of time to explore Umlalazi, this is undoubtedly where you should spend it!

On the banks of the lazy Mlalazi

The Mlalazi River is an excellent example of an estuary in good natural condition, and considered among the twenty most important in conservation terms in South Africa. It is also a focal point for many visitors to Umlalazi Nature Reserve, who come here to enjoy a variety of watersports, or just picnic on the banks (to the delight of the clever vervet monkeys who’ll quickly raid unprotected baskets!)

One of Umlalazi’s trails leads all the way from the parking area at the lagoon to the mouth of the Mlalazi River where it empties into the Indian Ocean. Hikers can then return along the same route, or along the beach – a total distance of 8 or so kilometers. Unfortunately when I attempted the trail on our recent stay about half-way to the mouth I encountered a washed-away stream crossing, probably following the good rainfall the week before we arrived. After the thought of hungry crocodiles eyeing me from somewhere unseen crossed my mind, there was no way I was going to try and wade through a muddy backwater, and unfortunately had to turn around. Oh well, next time we’re at Umlalazi I will give it another go (the trail I mean, I’ll still refuse to wade through a muddy backwater if the bridge isnt fixed by then…)

Wandering around Umlalazi’s forests

A visit to Umlalazi Nature Reserve would not be complete without exploring the extensive tracts of pristine forests protected in the reserve.

Umlalazi’s Siyaya Trail snakes through the forest, up and down over the densely vegetated dunes, for a distance of 3km. Enormous red and smaller white milkwoods (Mimusops obovata and Sideroxylon inerme respectively) predominate in the species-rich climax dune forests. The Siyaya Trail starts at the beach parking area and makes a large circle through the forest to end at the parking area again, but about half-way through a side-trail leads to a footbridge over the Siyayi stream and to the beach.

At the grove of Kosi palms (Raphia australis) a boardwalk has been constructed just above the level of the waterlogged forest floor, allowing easy access to these magnificent trees and the palm-nut vultures that feed and breed in them. Interestingly, the Kosi palms flower and fruit only once in their lifetime, when the tree is around 30 years old. Elsewhere in the swamp forests, a little further inland than the dune forest, ferns and the swamp fig (Ficus trichopoda) are the most noticeable species.

Umlalazi’s forests abound with insects and other invertebrates, numerous insectivorous and frugivorous forest birds, as well as forest dwelling mammals, of which the red duikers and vervet monkeys are the easiest to see.

A beach that goes on and on at Umlalazi

Whether you’re a sun worshipper, an adrenaline junky, a sports nut or just looking for a quiet position from where to contemplate your place in the world, the beach at Umlalazi definitely has a spot where you can enjoy the Indian Ocean just the way you like it.

Introduction to Umlalazi Nature Reserve

We found a treasure along the Kwazulu-Natal Coast!

We had looked forward to our first visit to Umlalazi Nature Reserve in March with great excitement, but what we found at this little jewel exceeded our expectations many times over.

Compared to many other South African conservation areas, Umlalazi is tiny. The reserve may cover only a little over 1000ha, but it is the amazing diversity of ecosystems it protects that make it such a valuable piece of land. The estuary of the Mlalazi River is considered among the top 20 most important to conserve of more than 250 South African estuaries. Another watercourse, the Siyayi, runs parallel to the sea for a distance of about 8km through the reserve, though only reaches the ocean after episodes of extreme rainfall as its mouth has been blocked by the dunes at Umlalazi’s main beach. The reserve is well known for the excellent examples of mangrove forests it protects, but you’ll also find swamp forests dominated by Swamp Fig trees (Ficus trichopoda), climax dune forests, Acacia thickets, tidal salt marshes, freshwater wetlands, coastal grasslands, seashore dune vegetation as well as miles of unspoiled beaches. A grove of Kosi Palms (Raphia australis), one of the largest species of palm in the world, was planted in 1903 by a magistrate C.C. Foxon and is today regarded a national monument.

Of course, with such a huge diversity of habitats it should come as no surprise that Umlalazi is home to an equally impressive variety of animal life. The abundance of invertebrate species of all descriptions is simply astounding. Thirteen mammal species have been recorded, with plains zebra, red duiker and vervet monkey being the most easily seen. The critically endangered Pickersgill’s Reed Frog is among 15 species of amphibians found in the reserve, while nile crocodile, python and gaboon adder feature in the list of 16 reptile species – 9 of which snakes – you might encounter. With a list of 327 bird species identified, the reserve is a prime destination for birdwatchers – pride of place of course going to the southern most breeding population of Palmnut Vultures that feed and nest in the Kosi Palms. These small vultures (wingspan of 1.5m, weight up to 1.8kg) is one of South Africa’s rarest birds, but regularly encountered here at Umlalazi, and apart from the fruit of the palms will also feed on carrion and small animals.

These three zebras seemed to act as our hosts while we were visiting Umlalazi and regularly passed by. They even formed a guard of honour at the gate when we departed 😀

In upcoming posts, we’ll focus some more attention on Umlalazi’s mangroves, the estuary, the forests and the beach.

The focus for Umlalazi’s human visitors is on outdoor recreation, with fishing, boating, canoeing (can be hired at reception), hiking, birding, swimming, surfing and picnicking being popular pursuits. Excellent information displays at the trail heads and other public areas give visitors an insight into the world they are exploring.

The reserve is managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, through whom overnight visitors can also book the twelve fully self-contained 4-sleeper log cabins, the 14 camping sites at Indaba Camp or the 36 camping sites at Inkwazi Camp available inside the reserve. The town of Mtunzini, just outside the reserve gates, also offers several alternative accommodation options, as well as a variety of other services you’d expect in a small holiday town. The area’s modern history dates back to the 1850’s when the colourful character John Robert Dunn settled here. Dunn  befriended Zulu King Cetshwayo who appointed him Chieftain over the area that Umlalazi and Mtunzini lies in today. He held his court and celebrations under a large red milkwood tree (known as the Indaba Tree) in what is now the Indaba campsite at Umlalazi. Dunn died in 1895, having married 49 wives (48 of which according to traditional Zulu custom) and fathering over a hundred children (various sources give differing numbers about exactly how many – ranging from 116 to 163!). That same year, a magistrate was appointed at Mtunzini, marking the official birth of the town. Umlalazi Nature Reserve itself was proclaimed in 1948 and today forms the northernmost section of the Siyaya Coastal Park which stretches for 37km along the coastline and also incorporates the Redhill and Amatigulu Nature Reserves.

Umlalazi Nature Reserve is located on the Indian Ocean, along Kwazulu-Natal’s North Coast about 140km from Durban (or 700km from Pretoria), and easily accessed from the Mtunzini off-ramp from the N2-highway.

How to reach Umlalazi

How to reach Umlalazi

 

 

Bye for now, Umlalazi…

Our Easter holidays have come to an end, and we find ourselves back home in Pretoria. But we couldn’t leave Umlalazi this morning without first savoring the perfect sunrise over the Indian Ocean!

Umlalazi 26 March 2016

Tranquility on Good Friday

Early morning on Good Friday, spent serenely next to the Mlalazi River.

Umlalazi 25 March 2016

Happy Easter!

Peek-a-boo!

The little vervet monkeys here at Umlalazi are as naughty as they are cute – leave open a chalet door or car window and they are sure to help themselves to a treat!

Umlalazi 24 March 2016

So much to see and do!

We spent today exploring and enjoying some of the amazingly diverse ecosystems here at Umlalazi Nature Reserve, and planning to do more of the same tomorrow – there’s no way you can fit it all into a single day!

 

A very special vulture!

Today we moved to Umlalazi Nature Reserve, situated on the North Coast of Kwazulu Natal Province, for the next part of our Easter holidays. Umlalazi is well known as the home of the Palm-Nut Vulture, one of the rarest birds in South Africa, and we had a brilliant sighting of one of them along the lagoon just minutes after arriving!

Umlalazi 22 March 2016