Joubert communing with nature, at Ntshondwe in the Ithala Game Reserve:
“Connected” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge
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Tag Archives: outdoors
Winter, or not, at Royal Natal
Early August is still considered winter in South Africa. In preparing for our latest trip to Royal Natal National Park, in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park and World Heritage Site, we had therefore anticipated snow, at least on the high peaks, and severely cold temperatures. Watching the weather forecasts in the days before our visit was a confusing affair. One private weather site was predicting extreme cold and gloomy weather, while the national weather service predicted glorious sunshine with temperatures in the mid 20’s. Not knowing what to expect, we packed for any eventuality.
The Women’s Day long weekend was only three days long, and so we decided to get an early start out of Pretoria. Through the Free State, the outside temperature remained around freezing. Imagine therefore our excitement seeing the temperature reading on the dashboard rise as we descended the Drakensberg Range into Kwazulu-Natal Province, with not a flake of snow to be seen anywhere! By the time we arrived at Rugged Glen, just to the east of the Royal Natal National Park‘s entrance, it was warm enough to start taking off some layers of clothing and soak in the sunshine. The South African Weather Service got it right this time!
Despite it being a long weekend, the campsite at Rugged Glen was devoid of people; perhaps the predictions of poor weather dissuaded many campers from venturing to “The ‘Berg” for a break. Whatever the case may have been, we didn’t complain about having only Rugged Glen’s diverse birdlife and a few nervous reedbuck to share our first mountain picnic with.
Turnoff to Rugged Glen
Rugged Glen scenery
Bald Ibis and Cattle Egret
Red-knobbed cot
Little Grebe
Cape Batis (female)
Olive thrush
From Rugged Glen, which is also the base for the popular guided bridle trails that traverse these scenic hills, we headed to the Park’s gate, supported the crafters selling their wares and then drove the short distance to the Mahai Visitor Centre. Time for another picnic at one of the tables along the Mahai stream before making our way along, and a little beyond, the pretty and easy Cascades boardwalk, passing several dainty bushbuck ewes along the way while a herd of eland grazed high above us on the slope of Dooley Mountain (named after an Irish logger given a concession to cut wood here in the late 1800’s).
Grey Duiker
Welcome to Royal Natal
Royal Natal entrance
Bushbuck ewe
Red-throated Wryneck
Groundscraper Thrush
Eland on the slope of Dooley Mountain
The murmering waters of the Mahai
The Cascades
The Cascades
The de Wet family looming over the Mahai stream
Bushbuck
Tiny beauty
Bushbuck irritation
With our hiking boots now introduced to Royal Natal’s network of walking trails it was time to head to Thendele Camp and our accommodation for the two nights we’d be spending at the foot of the magnificent Amphitheatre formation, a basalt cliff-face almost 1000m high and 5000m wide. To the left of the Ampitheatre is the Eastern Buttress, 3011m above sea level, and to the right Sentinel peak soars to 3165m ASL. These majestic natural features absolutely dominates the scenery at Royal Natal, which together with Rugged Glen covers over 8000 hectares, and was the main reason for the Park’s proclamation in 1916. The “Royal” moniker was added to the reserve’s name after a visit by the British Royal family in 1947. The vegetation in the Park, more than 900 species strong, is mostly open grassland dotted with a few hardier trees and shrubs, with heathland on the summit and mountain forests in the sheltered valleys.
We found Thendele alive with bird song, and just below the huts a small group of mountain reedbuck were right at home. Despite the camp’s 29 units (offering between 2 and 6 beds each) being fully booked, it was a haven of peace and tranquility – just the way we like it. At 1580m above sea level, Thendele lies a lot lower than the peaks that tower above it.
Baboon scratching for grass roots
Welcome to Thendele
The Amphitheatre from Thendele
Thendele
Thendele
Policeman’s Helmet formation dwarfed by the Amphitheatre
Thendele Lower Camp
Hiking from Thendele
Hiking from Thendele
Helmeted Guineafowl
Hiking from Thendele
Chorister Robin-Chat
Cape Robin-Chat
Mountain Reedbcuk
Southern Boubou
Evening temperatures were admittedly a lot cooler, and our chalet’s lounge with its cosy fireplace was just the place to enjoy dark chocolate and a cup of coffee at the end of a wonderful day spent outdoors.
The early morning sun on Sunday bathed Thendele and the Amphitheatre in a glorious gold, inviting Joubert and I to walk around camp while Marilize prepared a hearty breakfast.
Early morning in Thendele
Early morning from Thendele
Thendele Chalet 23
Highveld Cabbage Tree
Huge tree clinging to a rock face
Curious Helmeted Guineafowl
Our first destination this morning was the trout dam at Mahai, where the windstill conditions made for splendid reflections on the water’s surface and we found out just how easy it is to loose complete track of time while marveling at the spectacular scenery around us.
Reflections at Mahai
Reflections at Mahai
Reflections at Mahai, Royal Natal National Park
Little Grebe
Olive Woodpecker
Reflections at Mahai
Royal Natal’s biggest attraction is the selection of well demarcated hiking trails traversing the area and excellent pocket guides and maps are available at the shops at Thendele and the Visitor Centre. One of the easier trails is Otto’s Walk, which starts at the Visitor Centre’s parking area and named after one of the reserve’s early Superintendents, Otto Zunckel. It follows the course of the Mahai stream through dense mountain forest for most of the way before returning along the main access road, a total distance of 3km. The pair of rare Mountain Wagtail we encountered at a pleasant spot next to the stream was a real highlight. Another particularly interesting walk is to the San Rock Art site in the Sigubudu Valley, accessible at a small fee and accompanied by a local guide.
Getting closer with the locals
Bushbuck
Jennifer Sutton Memorial Wall
Jennifer Sutton Memorial Wall
Otto’s Walk route marker
Alert bushbuck ewes
Otto’s Walk passes through mature mountain forest
Mountain Wagtail
Mountain reedbuck on the run
Wildlife have right of way!
Smiling dassie
Cape Grey Mongoose
Along the main access road from the gate to the Visitor Centre there’s a viewpoint offering an absolutely unobscured view of the Amphitheatre and the wider Drakensberg range. With winter being the dry season, the Thukela River was barely flowing, with only a trickle evident among the rocks and pebbles in the river bed. There was also no sign of the Thukela Falls, which with a combined drop of almost 950m is the 2nd highest waterfall on the planet. One of the Park’s most popular trails follows the impressive gorge cut by the Thukela through the Drakensberg’s sandstone.
We spent the afternoon relaxing around Thendele, enjoying an ice cream on the lawns outside the reception office and exploring the short forest walk behind the camp.
Common Tree Ferns
Male Greater Double-Collared Sunbird
On our final morning, before heading back to Pretoria, we awoke to a Thendele cloaked in thick mist. And cold. Neither the Amphitheatre above nor the Thukela Valley below was to be seen. The wintry weather we had been dreading seemed to have set in just as we were about to depart. After spending two lovely days walking and picnicking in these beautiful mountains, we were immensely grateful for the blessing of good weather! And as we drove out the park that morning, we were already going through our diaries to see where we’d be fitting in our next visit to this magnificent mountain landscape.
Misty Thendele
Sun trying to break through
Goodbye, till next time, Royal Natal!
The previous time we visited Royal Natal (April 2012), we traveled to the Park via the Oliviershoek Pass and found it such a pothole-ridden affair that we took a 100km detour to return via Van Rheenens Pass instead. This time we decided to give Oliviershoek (the R74) another try for the last 70km from Harrismith to the Park. The road is being rebuilt and by the time it is finished this should again be one of the country’s most enjoyable drives. For the moment, there’s a 6km stretch of one way traffic on which Stop / Go controls are operating, and a further 15km portion on a wide, smooth gravel detour, perfectly safe to travel in a sedan as long as you don’t try to drive too fast.
Pretoria to Royal Natal (drawn with Google Maps)
The Royal Natal National Park, Thendele Resort and Mahai and Rugged Glen Campsites are managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife.
Sweni Wilderness Trail
It is Sunday afternoon and we’re standing around in the parking area of Satara Rest Camp, in the Kruger National Park. My sister Ansie and I have already enjoyed two wonderful days exploring the southern part of the reserve, and now we’re very excited to depart on the next part of our visit – the Sweni Wilderness Trail. Having been introduced to our lead ranger Ndou and the six kind ladies we’ll be sharing the experience with, and with all the baggage packed into the trailer, it is time to get into the open game viewing vehicle and head into the wilderness.
We drive southwards, and apart from Ndou having to admonish a group of tourists for getting out of their vehicle among a herd of giraffe, enjoy sightings of kudu, waterbuck, more giraffe, impala, elephant, blue wildebeest and steenbok. Just across the bridge over the Sweni Spruit, Ndou turns left onto a no-entry road, reserved to access the base camp of the Sweni Wilderness Trail. Soon after, we have our first tastes of what makes the Sweni such a hugely popular trail: two separate sightings of lion males, first an old loner and then two beautiful specimens in their prime. It is a vehicle filled with some very excited trailists that arrives at the Sweni Trails Camp late that afternoon!
Young giraffe
Giraffe and red-billed oxpecker
Turning into the Sweni wilderness
Impala ram
Lone lion
Male lion in his prime
If looks could kill!
The other male was a lot more relaxed
We’ve arrived!
The base camp has four small A-frame huts that accommodate two guests each, and as the camp has no electricity we quickly settle into our units while there’s still daylight left. We are introduced to Rhulani, Ndou’s assistant ranger, and James, the very experienced camp caretaker and cook. The conversation around the Sweni dinner table that evening centered on the collective nouns used to describe various groups of animals – a business of mongoose, a tower or caleidoscope of giraffe, a parliament of owls.
“You’ve got the watches, we’ve got the time”. Ndou’s speaking as we sit around the camp fire after dinner, the camp entirely immersed in the darkness of the African night. He’s making the point that there’s a different pace to the wilderness and that we should let go of our own perceptions of time and distance in order to fully take in the wilderness experience. He and Rhulani goes through the “programme” of the days ahead, ensuring that we understand the rules necessary to our safety while walking out in the wilderness among some of Africa’s most dangerous animals.
Most of the group opt to turn in early, leaving three of us to enjoy a last cup of coffee at the fireside. A rustle in the grass followed by an enormous splash has us grabbing for a spotlight, illuminating an impala ewe standing knee-high in the shallow pool in front of camp. We watch as she gets out of the water, and walks along the water’s edge. She disappears from sight for a second as she passes behind the trunk of a big tree next to the camp fence. Just then, there’s another tremendous splash from the water, and as the spotlight finds the impala again it is abundantly clear that her situation has turned for the worse. There’s a frantic scene playing out just meters in front of us and no one thinks to pick up a camera! A medium-sized crocodile has her body firmly in its mouth, and a hyena (or was it two?) is running up and down along the water. We watch in dumbfounded awe as the struggling impala disappears below the water, a string of bubbles rising to the surface signalling that she breathed her last. Five minutes later, the crocodile surfaces again with his now drowned prize, just for a few seconds, her eyes still open and eerily reflecting the light from our torch. We speculate that the hyenas must have chased the impala into the water the first time, and that the opportunistic crocodile then grabbed her as she walked along the pool. However it came about, the excitement of what we’d witnessed and the sounds of the crocodile thrashing in the water as it enjoyed its meal while baboons scream in horror from the trees nearby kept me awake for quite some time that night.
The drowned impala brought to the surface for a few seconds
James provided an early morning wake-up call for those finding it hard to rise Monday morning, and all of us enjoyed the coffee and rusks before heading out for our first hike. Ndou and Rhulani chose to go walking in an area known as Milaleni, a short drive into the west of the Sweni Wilderness. Our walk started off shrouded in dense mist, which only lifted much later in the morning. Regular sightings of game and birds kept our senses peaked while Ndou and Rhulani astounded us with their tracking skills and shared their extensive knowledge of the bushveld. They chose a rocky outcrop as a picturesque picnic spot before leading us back to the vehicle along the course of the Sweni.
Heading into the Sweni wilderness
Heading into the Sweni wilderness
Ndou showing us a Mlala-palm leave chewed by an elephant
Interpreting a dung-midden
Big trees line the Sweni
Crossing a dry stream bed
Lion track
Upwards to a picnic with a view
The Sweni area is mostly flat plains, interspersed with a few rocky outcrops
A deep pool in the Sweni, home to a nursery of baby crocodiles
Warthog fleeing from the group
We encountered this herd of elephants on the way back to camp
We arrived back at camp to the smells of a delicious brunch, expertly prepared by James while we were out walking. Meals are enjoyed under a large thatched roof, with a view over the Sweni stream, the crocodile pool below the camp and the muddy waterhole on the opposite bank. There’s a constant stream of wildlife heading to the water, and combined with the wide variety of birds and small animals in the camp it is very difficult to go and enjoy a siesta after brunch, for fear of missing out on any of the action!
The Sweni dining area
Wildebeest and zebra heading for the water
Sweni Wilderness Trail hut, July 2015
Red-billed hornbill
Yellow-fronted canaries and a blue waxbill
White-headed vulture coming in for a landing
African Open-billed Stork searching for freshwater mussels
View from camp
Thirsty impalas
Burchell’s starling
Tree squirrel
Baboons
The afternoon outings take in a spot from which to enjoy the beautiful sunsets that the Lowveld is famous for. Heading eastwards to the Lebombo Mountains on Monday afternoon we spotted a selection of plains game and several species of birds – the Greater Painted Snipe we flushed as the vehicle crossed the Gwini stream causing much excitement in particular for the “twitchers” in our party. The sunset spot Ndou and Rhulani brought us to is known as Ted’s Place – a site high on a cliff in the Lebombos with the mostly dry bed of the Sweni far below and the plains of central Kruger stretching as far as the eye can see. In the distance a herd of elephant were kicking up dust on their hurried way while baboons and impalas foraged on the river bank, unworried by our presence high above them. There’s a calmness that settles over you at sunset in South Africa’s wild places, and it is easy to see why ranger Ted Whitfield enjoyed this tranquil spot so much.
Pair of steenbok near base camp
Sweni scenery
Black crakes
Elephant cows
Giraffes
Sweni sunset
View from Ted’s Place
View from Ted’s Place on the Sweni Trail, Kruger National Park
That evening James had a delicious pot of stew waiting for us back at camp, and what better way to end a memorable day out in the bush than with good company and intelligent conversation around the campfire.
It’s another early wake-up accompanied by coffee, rusks and birdsong on Tuesday morning. Our ranger-guides drive us out to the Gwini-stream area again, where we’d concentrate our walking along the stream in the hopes that we’ll find the snipes again. The area literally teemed with animals and we often found ourselves among mixed herds of wildebeest, plains zebra, giraffe and impala. Rhulani pointed out a well camouflaged rock monitor lizard, hibernating high in the branches of a fever tree, and then later explained to us why the weeping wattle is also known as the “toiletpaper bush” (if you chew on the branches of this tree you’ll soon find a need for its soft leaves 😉 ).
For a long stretch of our walk we were accompanied by the shrill chattering of a Greater Honeyguide. Ndou related the local belief that if you don’t reward the honeyguide with a piece of the spoils after it has guided you to a beehive, the next time it will lead you into danger. Shortly after, with this warning still fresh in our minds, the recently placed tracks of lions we came across made us hope that Ndou and Rhulani didn’t owe this honeyguide anything!
We had our picnic rest-stop near Kally’s Fountain while curious giraffes peered at us from close by. Considering that it was the middle of a rather dry winter season the amount of water simply flowing out of the muddy soil at this spot was astounding and from the tracks in the area it was clear that it was also a favourite drinking and wallowing place for the area’s wildlife.
It was not long after picking up our backpacks again and continuing along the stream that we passed a herd of giraffe that seemed less worried about us and more concerned with something else moving through the savanna on their other side. Walking into a clearing, we were thrilled to see three lionesses and about a dozen tiny cubs heading towards a thicket some 200m ahead of us. We enjoyed the sighting from a safe distance, as lion mothers are notoriously aggressive and extremely dangerous. They quickly rushed the cubs to the safety of the thicket and Ndou and Rhulani then steered us in the direction of the vehicle. While we didn’t see the lions again I’m sure they kept a watchful eye on us as we walked past!
Sweni sunrise
Grey heron
Pool in the Gwini
Can you see the hibernating monitor lizard?
Blue wildebeest on the run
Rhulani, our guide on the Sweni Trail, explaining why a Weeping Wattle can also be called a “toiletpaper bush”
Enjoying wildlife along the way
Plains zebras making their escape
Curious giraffe
Kally’s Fountain
Kally’s Fountain
Kally’s Fountain
Kally’s Fountain
Gwini stream
Lionesses and cubs
Funnelweb spider’s nest
Pearl-Spotted Owlet
Back at camp it was time for another scrumptious brunch and then more opportunities to enjoy the real-life wildlife documentary playing out around the waterhole. The satiated crocodile was baking in the sun at one end of the pool while Egyptian Geese were noisily laying claim to the other. All around us tiny birds were flitting about the branches while wildebeest, zebra, giraffe, bushbuck, kudu and impala put in appearances at the water’s edge. In the late afternoon a big herd of elephants came to slake their thirst from the pool in front of camp, and it was a difficult decision whether to stay in camp enjoying their antics or to head out into the wilderness for one final sundowner walk.
Killer crocodile
Egyptian goose
The view from the Sweni Trails Camp
Chinspot Batis (female)
Black-backed Puffback
Elephant cow
Watching elephants from the Sweni camp
One elephant, or three?
I am glad everyone decided to go out for that last walk in the wilderness with ranger guides Ndou and Rhulani, as it turned out to be the absolute highlight of an already memorable wilderness trail. We drove to the Milaleni area again, to enjoy a short walk to a waterhole in the bed of the Sweni before returning to a low rocky ridge from where we could appreciate another spectacular sunset.
We spotted the agitated elephant bull on the opposite bank of the Sweni as we got off the vehicle, but it seemed he was moving off and we weren’t too perturbed. Not ten minutes later, we had spotted another pride of lions, more relaxed and with slightly older cubs than those we saw that morning. With our attention focused on the lions as we crossed over to the other bank, we didn’t immediately notice that the elephant bull was still in the area and quite close (I’m sure the rangers knew he was there though). With head held high he was making it clear that we shouldn’t follow. And so we found ourselves between a huge and unfriendly elephant bull and a large pride of lions. Eventually the lions realised that we had seen them and the adults moved to cover, while the curious cubs did a poorer job at hiding. The elephant at our back had also moved on and satisfied with our viewing we moved away from the scene as well.
Ndou found a Magic Guarri bush and was busy telling us about how it could be used for anything from a useful toothbrush and fire-fighting tool, its uses in traditional medicine and how it wards of ghosts from your home, when the sounds of hippos rushing to water had us all alert. It seemed hippos have taken up residence at the waterhole to which we were heading and to add to the gravity of the situation Rhulani also reported that a herd of elephant was feeding around the waterhole. Our rangers then explained the dangerous situation in which we found ourselves as we had to pass the waterhole to get back to our vehicle at the sundowner spot. With the sun setting fast, we couldn’t wait the situation out and with the wind against us we couldn’t go back past the lions along the track we came. Having reminded us of the rules and what they expected from us, the rangers lead us closer to the pool.
Peering through the bush we could see a huge hippo bull standing tall in the water as Ndou took up position in the stream bed, facing Africa’s most dangerous mammal. There was simply no time for photos as Rhulani led us behind Ndou and up onto the opposite bank of the river. At this point, the herd of elephants became aware of our presence and sounded their dissatisfaction. Some of the herd, mostly cows with calves, thundered away while especially the younger males gave impressive threat displays. We in turn were following Rhulani in single file heading straight back to the vehicle at brisk pace as Ndou caught up from behind. What an adrenalin rush! Pretty soon a couple of jackals started yelping, probably complaining that the lions, elephants and hippos failed to deliver them some tasty morsels!
It was a supercharged group of trailists that clambered onto that rocky ridge that evening. The show however was not over. As we unpacked our snacks and opened our drinks, we all found a spot from where we could take in our final Sweni spectacular. With the glowing red of an African sunset surrounding us, the lions started roaring. You could feel their booming voices resonating in your chest. From a distance more lions started roaring, moving closer at speed. Must be the males coming to join the rest of the pride! Through binoculars in the fading light we could make out their shapes as they moved up the opposite bank. Every now and then a hippo would chime in with a grunt or an elephant’s trumpeting would silence the almost constant calling of the jackals. The sweet whistles of a fork-tailed drongo coming from a knob-thorn just behind us provided such contrast to the bellowing of the big mammals. And then, the rasping roar of a leopard, very close but out of sight, provided the closing notes to the African symphony. The curtains were drawn on one of the most memorable experiences I’ve ever had in South Africa’s wild places.
Waterbuck bull
Suckling elephant calf
Elephant calf playing with the dust
Impala on the run
Two tracks leading into the Wilderness
Crossing the Sweni while the elephant moves away
Only he is still around, and not amused!
The lions lying on the other side
The cubs were too curious to hide
Ndou demonstrating how to brush your teeth with a Magic Guarri stem
Surprised elephant herd
Marching out of danger
Disappointed jackal
Sunset spot
Another Sweni sunset
That night, after a delicious traditional meal of pap-en-braaivleis (barbecued meat with maize meal porridge) we reflected around the campfire about the experiences we shared the last couple of days, the professionalism and extraordinary knowledge of the two rangers that guided us, safely, through the Sweni wilderness, and the way the wilderness makes friends of strangers.
Chatting at the fireside
Nighttime view from Sweni
The Milky Way above Sweni Wilderness Trails Camp
WIth heavy hearts we had to vacate the Sweni Trails Camp on Wednesday morning, to be delivered back to Satara and civilisation. A honey badger came to wish us goodbye at the camp, and after savouring James’ home-baked bread for the last time we’re on our way.
Honey Bagder
Spotted hyena
At Satara it is time to bid farewell to rangers Ndou and Rhulani and to newly made friends Verna, Sinmarie, Shareen, Hanneli, Ronel and Cerita. Four of the group would have a few more days in the Park, four of us (including Ansie and me) were headed to Orpen Gate and back to Pretoria, and the two rangers would that afternoon take a different group back with them to the wonderful Sweni Wilderness Trails Camp. How we envied those lucky souls!
Big elephant bull just outside Satara
The crocodiles at Nsemani Dam seems to have acquired a new fashion of mud on their backs 😉
The crocodiles at Nsemani Dam seems to have acquired a new fashion of mud on their backs 😉
Southern White-crowned Shrike
Ground hornbill
Little Bee-eater
Orpen Gate, and Sweni Wilderness Trail, to Pretoria via Lydenburg (map drawn with Google Maps)
The Sweni Wilderness Trail is one of seven operated by SANParks in the Kruger National Park.
The story of our three magical days on the Sweni trail is a perfect fit for the WordPress Weekly Photo Challenge “Today was a Good Day“
Another beautiful day at Royal Natal
Royal Natal definitely has some of the most spectacular scenery in the entire Drakensberg Range, and when you’re lucky to have the kind of beautiful weather we enjoyed here today, it really would be a sin to spend any time indoors!
Back in the mountains!
We’re spending the Women’s Day long weekend at Thendele, in the Royal Natal National Park. We couldn’t have asked for a more glorious winter’s day. We’ve been hiking and having picnics all day, and now we’re kicking back in one of the most beautifully situated camps in the country.
Beneath your feet…
is your shadow!
The de Wet family looming over the Mahai stream, in the Royal Natal National Park.
“Beneath your feet” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge
Winter in Southern Kruger
My sister, Ansie, and I headed to the Kruger National Park for a 5 night visit in the early morning of Friday 17th July. After our latest trip to Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, Marilize had business to attend to and Joubert had to be back at school the following Monday, as the winter school holidays had come to an end. This therefore was a great opportunity for some sibling bonding in a place where we’d spend many wonderful days together growing up. Just a few hours easy drive along the N4-highway got us safely to Malelane Gate, on the southern border of the reserve, at around 08:30.
Malelane Gate, always a welcome sight after the drive from Pretoria
The route from Pretoria to Malelane, approximately 380km (drawn with Google Maps)
Just a few minutes spent getting our entry permit issued and to send a few quick text messages to let the loved ones back home know we arrived safely, before setting off into the Park. Our route took us along the S25 Crocodile River drive to Lower Sabie Rest Camp, where we’d booked the next two nights in a safari tent on the bank of the Sabie River.
Buffalo on the S25
Lilac-breasted roller
Spectacular giraffe sighting
Crocodile in the Sabie
Serrated Terrapin in the Sabie
Grey heron in the Sabie
Tiny, as yet unidentified, bird at the roadside
Elephants and impalas mingle on the bank of the Sabie
Crossing the Sabie
Lower Sabie Tent 26, July 2015
After checking into our accommodation and unpacking the luggage and supplies, it was time to get back on the road again for our afternoon drive. We opted for just a short drive past Duke’s waterhole and Nthandanyathi Hide to the south of camp, and spent the last few minutes before the gates closed enjoying a magnificent sunset from the causeway over the Sabie just outside camp.
Kudu crossing the road
Blue wildebeest
Remains of a leopard kill
Lower Sabie sunset
We awoke early on Saturday morning, eagerly anticipating what Kruger would have in store for us that day. We decided to stay out all day, and were one of the first vehicles waiting at the camp’s gates to open at 06:00. Lower Sabie’s renowned for predator sightings, which explains why it is so popular among visitors and often fully booked months in advance. Not long after leaving camp we encountered a pride of lions near Lubyelubye, keeping Lower Sabie’s reputation intact. After being robbed of our breakfast rusks by a big baboon at Nkuhlu Picnic Spot, we continued along the Sabie and onwards to Transport Dam via the S65-route. From there we had to get past a considerable traffic jam (where two lionesses, apparently with well-hidden cubs, were baking in the sun on a rocky outcrop), to get to Skukuza, where we enjoyed a picnic-lunch at the day visitors area near the Selati railway bridge. To get back to Lower Sabie, we chose the S21 Nwatimhiri Road, a gravel route that follows the course of the mostly dry stream of the same name. We were one of the first cars out that morning and one of the last to return to Lower Sabie that evening, just minutes before the gates closed at 17:30 – a long but very rewarding day in the wilds of the Kruger National Park.
Lion greeting near Lubyelubye
Early morning in Kruger
Grey duiker
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Steenbok
Lionesses, on the rocks
Elephants drinking at De La Porte waterhole
Squirrel at Skukuza
Greater Blue-eared starling at Skukuza
Magpie shrike south of Skukuza
Kudu and impala at Renosterkoppies
Arrow-marked babbler at Nkuhlu
Elephant drinking from the Sabie
Saddle-billed stork
Elephant cow and calf
Sunset Dam, at sunset…
After dinner, it was time to take our usual stroll through the camp, taking some night time photos along the way, before turning in.
Elephant next to the fence
A family of Greater Greater Cane-rat
Night time view from our tent’s deck
Sunday was another early start to the day – we had to pack and head to Satara Rest Camp, northwards from Lower Sabie. We detoured to Mlondozi Picnic Site for breakfast, and ticked a quick leopard sighting (no photos unfortunately) about half-an-hour after leaving camp, completing the Big-5 for the trip less than two days into our visit. A quick pit-stop at Tshokwane and then arrived at Satara just in time for lunch, under the watchful eye of several of the camp’s feathered inhabitants.
Hyena on the S29 to Mlondozii
Mlondozi Dam
Hippos in Mlondozi Dam
Waterbuck
Warthog
Giraffe, with Nkumbe in th background
Klipspringer on Nkumbe Mountain
A herd of wildebeest seen from Nkumbe
Giraffe drinking at Mazithi (Kruger Park)
Plains zebras
Waterbuck
Frightened kudu
Bushbuck
Elephant
A huge troop of baboons
Another kudu
Cape Glossy Starling
Burchell’s starling
Yellow-billed hornbill
Impala lilies
African Mourning Dove
Satara is the departure point for the next part, and undoubtedly the highlight, of this particular trip to Kruger – the Sweni Wilderness Trail. I’ll be telling you all about this incredible experience soon, in another installment of de Wets Wild.
Inspiration
It probably comes as no surprise that we’re inspired by the beauty of a tranquil South African sunset, like this one over the Sabie River near Lower Sabie Rest Camp, in the Kruger National Park.
“Inspiration” is the theme for this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge
World Ranger Day
The 31st of July is set aside as World Ranger Day, a day to appreciate the work these dedicated people perform on behalf of humanity, to celebrate their successes and commemorate those that laid down their lives in the line of duty.
Having just spent three days with two exemplary rangers on the Sweni Wilderness Trail in the Kruger National Park, it became as clear as ever just what an incredible debt of gratitude we owe the men and women protecting our natural heritage.
Imfolozi, in the middle of a dry spell
In the 20 years that I’ve been visiting the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, I’ve never seen the Black Umfolozi River bone-dry at the bridge on the way to Mpila Camp. That changed when we visited in July 2015. A drought has the north of Kwazulu-Natal Province in its firm grasp and it is evident that the Park is unfortunately not escaping its ravages.
Travelling south-west after entering at Memorial Gate, through the Hluhluwe-section of the Park, we couldn’t help noticing how parched even this normally lush area has become, a marked contrast from when we visited in December 2014. Game-viewing was easy going, as animals were congregating in their numbers around the remaining water sources and the denuded vegetation provided little cover. After checking in at Mpila, we headed for Sontuli Loop, our favourite drive in the reserve.
Yellow-fronted canaries searching for food in rhino dung
Giraffe cleaning regiments can be tricky…
Red-capped Robin-Chat in Hilltop Camp
Samango Monkey in Hilltop Camp
A dry Black Umfolozi
Lions on the sand in the bed of the Black Umfolozi
Impala
Elephants visiting a small pool remaining in the Black Umfolozi
The next morning saw us out exploring Imfolozi at the break of dawn. The animal population seems to be coping well with the harsh conditions and we had good sightings of several species of birds, mammals and reptiles. Unseasonably hot weather, in the low 30’s Celsius, saw us return to Mpila for a siesta during the midday heat before taking our afternoon drive to Ubhejane Hide .
Imfolozi sunrise
Imfolozi sunrise
White rhinos
Blue wildebeest
Huge herd of buffalo heading for a pool in the Black Umfolozi
Wahlberg’s Eagle
Warthog
White rhinos
Vervet monkey
Nyala at Ubhejane Hide
Giraffe and Imfolozi scenery
Imfolozi sunset
Overnight a cold front accompanied by strong gusts of wind passed over the Park, seeing temperatures drop to less than half of what they were the previous day and overcast conditions prevailing throughout. This allowed us to stay out exploring for most of the day, visiting the Centenary Centre for lunch (we can highly recommend the ostrich burgers sold at the take-away kiosk!). A drive out to the extreme south-west corner of the reserve that afternoon put our minds at ease with the knowledge that the White Umfolozi River, that runs through the Park’s wilderness area, is still flowing, albeit only a trickle compared to the normal situation.
Buffalo on Sontuli Loop
Buffalo close-up
White rhinos
White rhinos
White rhinos
Thirsty baby zebra
Who can’t love that face?
African Pied wagtail
Cheetah mother and her large cub, seen close to Mpila
Wildebeest remains at Mohlolokozane
Green-winged pytilia (male)
Playful elephant youngsters
Baby white rhino
More of the same wintery weather greeted us as we woke on our last full day in the Park, and the hot cup of coffee and rusks we enjoyed that morning at Ubhejane Hide was indeed very welcome. By now we knew the few remaining pools at the viewpoint over the Black Umfolozi (near point 17 on the Park map) was like a magnet to wildlife, and finding three big male lions there guarding one of them was no surprise. The band of brothers remained in the same spot all day, doing what lions do best – sleeping! As for the de Wets, we headed for Sontuli Picnic Site for a lovely braai (South African barbeque) and then enjoyed our traditional last slow drive along Sontuli Loop at dusk before heading back to camp.
Nyala ewe
Blue wildebeest drinking at Ubhejane
Warthog sow
Lions in the Black Umfolozi
Buffalo chewing the cud
Irritated buffalo cow
Buffalo making their way over the Black Umfolozi’s sandy bed
Elephants claiming the right of way
Red-billed oxpeckers
White-backed vulture
Blue wildebeest
It’s unbelievable how quickly time passes when enjoying South Africa’s wild places. Leaving the Park on the morning of the 15th of July, we were concerned about the effects a prolonged drought would have on the Park’s vegetation and wildlife. Recent news about good rains falling in the area therefore was extremely welcome. It might not break the drought, but it will replenish the waterholes and hopefully carry the wildlife through to summer when (hopefully) more rain should come.
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For our July 2015 visit, we opted to enter and exit the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park at Memorial Gate, in the north of the reserve (a 7-hour, with stops, 570km drive from our home in Pretoria), and spent four nights at wonderfully wild Mpila Camp in the Imfolozi-section of the reserve.
Mpila cottage 17
View from our cottage
The neighbours at Mpila
House sparrow at Mpila
A view of the dry Black Umfolozi from Mpila
The route from Pretoria to Memorial Gate
(drawn with Google Maps)
Sadly the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park is under threat; if a proposed coal mine on the southern border of the reserve gets given the go-ahead it will mean the end of the reserve’s renowned wilderness area and much of its, and the Isimangaliso Wetland Park’s, ecological integrity. Visit “Save our Imfolozi Wilderness” if you’d like to add your voice in opposition to this unnecessary and unwelcome development.
DeWetsWild 