Tag Archives: Nwanetsi

Satara Summer 2021 – African Wild Dogs

We were still very fresh into our latest visit to the Satara area of the Kruger National Park when, on the 14th December, we came across a pack of seven African Wild Dogs, or Painted Wolves, near the Nsemani Dam on the H7 road leading to Orpen. To find such rare animals so early into our Kruger visit really was a good omen of things to come, and we were very excited even with the dogs resting so sedately in the heat of the late afternoon.

In the early morning of the 30th December we had just finished breakfast at the Muzandzeni Picnic Spot when the attendant alerted us to a pack of Wild Dogs rapidly approaching. We were just in time to see 10 of them run past the picnic spot and into the marshy area covered by long grass next to it. They paused a while on a little rise and then continued running, clearly seriously on the hunt. We decided to try and find them again on one of the roads leading from Muzandzeni.

As we left Muzandzeni we found three Spotted Hyenas following behind the Wild Dogs, no doubt hoping to score an easy meal.

First we tried turning south on the S36, but quickly realised that it leads away from the direction we last saw the dogs heading into, so we turned around. The S126 Sweni River Road might be the better option. Just as we started thinking following the S126 might be a lost cause too, we saw a hyena loping along. And then, just around the next corner, two dogs in the road – we found them again! Pretty soon all ten dogs were running in the road ahead of us, with the hyenas following some distance behind and just visible in the rear view mirrors every now and then. We followed the dogs for almost 10 kilometers, over the course of an hour-and-a-half, while they hunted. Every now and then they’d pause, take a scent trail leading into the long grass to disappear from view, only to return to the road a minute or two later. The dogs, with us in tow, decided against taking on a big warthog boar and then actually passed an impala ram standing in the long grass, not any the wiser how close he was to death. Just short of the Welverdiend waterhole however the dogs must have picked up a very promising lead as they left the road a final time, ears pulled back and bodies kept low to the ground. We waited around for several minutes, then searched up and down the road for a few kilometers either side of where we last saw them, but they didn’t re-appear. This probably means that they were successful at their kill.

Our plan for the morning of 31st December was a slow drive to a picnic breakfast at N’wanetsi. Our meal plans were slightly delayed however when we found another pack of Wild Dogs – nine animals – not 200m from the picnic spot! The dogs had a fresh kill and most were still feeding deep in a bush and not very clear to the eye. We stayed a few minutes and then moved to the picnic spot for a much needed comfort break and a quick bite to eat. When we returned to the dogs the whole pack had moved into the open and treated us to wonderful views.

The African Wild Dog is endangered, not only in South Africa but across the whole continent, where its range has been drastically diminished. South Africa is home to approximately 500 of these beautiful animals, about half of which live in Kruger National Park and adjacent reserves. For us to have seen three different packs during our 3 week visit to the Park was extremely lucky! The Endangered Wildlife Trust is again calling on citizen scientists to submit photos of Wild Dogs (and Cheetahs) taken during visits to the Kruger Park to their 7th Wild Dog Census, and Joubert and I will definitely be making our contributions.

Satara Rest Camp, Kruger National Park

Satara is unique among the Kruger National Park‘s camps. It is not situated on a serene river bank or atop a hill commanding views over the wilderness. Instead, it is located seemingly in the middle of a vast plain of flat grasslands and thornveld as far as the eye can see, inhabited by thousands of grazing animals and of course the predators that follow them. And that’s exactly the reason for Satara’s popularity; it probably has the highest density of large African predators in the entire Kruger.

Satara is a misspelling of the Hindi word “satrah”, meaning seventeen, and so named by a land surveyor and his Indian assistant measuring up this piece of the lowveld for farmland in the late 1800’s. Colonel James Stevenson-Hamilton appointed Tim Healy as the first ranger to the post at Satara in 1910, and he was followed by ranger W. Lloyd, who met an untimely death due to pneumonia and was buried by his wife and a servant in a coffin made from ceiling planks, just outside the present perimeter of the camp. By 1929, 3 years after the Kruger National Park was proclaimed, the first twelve huts at Satara were made available to overnight visitors, and by 1974, with the threat of malaria and soggy roads in the rainy season adequately under control, visitors could enjoy Satara all year round (instead of just during winter).

Today, Satara is the second biggest, and by far one of the most popular, rest camp in the Kruger National Park, offering a variety of accommodation and camping options to overnight guests, serviced by a restaurant, shop and filling station. Satara has a large amphitheatre where wildlife filmshows are presented in the evenings, and in the projector room is an interesting display about the camp and the Park’s wildlife. The camp also has a large swimming pool and play area for those hot summer days, and guests can join a variety of guided activities like walks and drives. Inside the camp a rich variety of smaller animals and birds are quite at home; Satara’s famous for its owls, badgers and wild cats.

Mention Satara, and anyone who has ever been there will likely immediately think about the S100; a gravel road leading to Nwanetsi Picnic Spot and the most popular drive in the Satara area. The S90, S100, S41 and H6 roads explore the game-rich area to the east of Satara and seldom disappoints. Nwanetsi has a cliff-top viewpoint overlooking a peaceful stretch of water, while the Sweni Hide nearby is probably the better option for serious photographers.

The most direct access to Satara is through Orpen Gate, about 50km to the west along the tarred H7-route. This road offers excellent opportunities for seeing the “Big 5“, especially near Nsemani Dam, or along the short detour to Girivana waterhole. In fact, we often end our time at Satara by spending our final afternoon at Girivana, enjoying the procession of animals and birds coming to slake their thirst in the golden light of the setting sun.

Two long but very rewarding gravel roads turn of the H7 about 20km from Satara: Turn north and you’ll be following the S39-road to the popular Timbavati picnic spot and Ratelpan Hide (and onwards to the Olifants River if you wish), or turn south and follow the S36-road towards the rustic, and much quieter, Muzandzeni and Nhlanguleni picnic spots. Over the years, we’ve had excellent sightings on both roads though the road towards Timbavati probably offers slightly more frequent encounters with Kruger’s big game. Along both routes there’s also turnoffs that will get you back to Satara quicker, if you find yourself pressed for time, and that also provide good game viewing opportunities.

The H1-3 road south to Tshokwane Picnic Spot, and the H1-4 northwards to the Olifants River, both passes several waterholes and often offers wonderful sightings of the big cats, especially in the early morning. It’s also worthwile taking a longer detour to the Lindanda Memorial, at the site where ranger Harry Wolhuter had his epic battle with a lion.

Satara’s an excellent choice for those hoping to see Africa’s big predators in abundance, but it has so much more to offer and enjoy. Spend a couple of hours at Girivana, soaking in the peace and quiet of a golden African sunset, and you’re sure to agree.