Monthly Archives: July 2018

Augrabies Flat Lizard

Platysaurus broadleyi

The Augrabies Flat Lizard, or Broadley’s Flat Lizard, is a South African endemic occurring in a tiny piece of the Northern Cape Province, centered on the Augrabies Falls where they are extremely common (one of the highest densities of any lizard anywhere on earth) and a familiar sight to visiting tourists. They grow to a length of around 8cm, excluding the tail, and their exceptionally flat bodies allow them to escape predators by hiding in the narrowest of crevices.

Preferring arid, sparsely vegetated, rocky habitats, Augrabies Flat Lizards follow an omnivorous diet that includes mainly insects (often caught by jumping into the air!), ripe Namaqua figs and pieces of food dropped by tourists. Augrabies Flat Lizards are active throughout the year and do not hibernate in winter, though they are active for shorter periods then. In the hot summer of their arid environs they will hide in the shade during the heat of the day. Their breeding season stretches from spring to early summer, during which the colourful males will display to the drab females and each other, and get involved in serious territorial disputes if need be. Females may produce two clutches of eggs in a season, the first young emerging from late December.

Augrabies Flat Lizards featured in a terrific clip on a BBC Wildlife programme presented by Sir David Attenborough. The IUCN considers the Augrabies Flat Lizard to be of least concern.

Augrabies Flat Lizard male

Augrabies Flat Lizard male and female

Augrabies Flat Lizard female

Augrabies Flat Lizard male

Augrabies Flat Lizard female

Augrabies Flat Lizard male

Augrabies Flat Lizard female

Augrabies Flat Lizard male

Augrabies Flat Lizard female

Orange River White-eye

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Zosterops pallidus

Orange River White-eyes occur only in South Africa’s central and western provinces and into Namibia, where they commonly inhabit thorny riparian vegetation and well-planted gardens, feeding primarily on insects and other invertebrates. Little is known about the breeding habits of these tiny birds (9g in weight, 11cm long), though their nesting season apparently spans spring and summer.

The IUCN considers the Orange River White-eye to be of least concern. Many authorities consider it a subspecies of the closely related and very similar Cape White-eye, with which it sometimes interbreeds. We had our first encounter with the Orange River White-eye during a recent visit to Augrabies Falls National Park.

Orange River White-eye

Mokala National Park is another wonderful place to see the Orange River White-eye:

Orange River White-eye (thank you Don Reid for helping with the ID!)

Orange River White-eyes

Orange River White-eye

Orange River White-eye (photo by Joubert)

Namaqua Fig Tree

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Ficus cordata

The Namaqua Fig is an exceptionally hardy tree occurring in arid, rocky areas from South Africa’s Western Cape northwards to southern Angola. Despite the harshness of their environment, Namaqua Figs can grow to 10m high, bearing fruit in spring and summer that is sought after by primates, frugivorous birds and even lizards. The fruit however are normally heavily infested with insects and not fit for humans to eat. As is the case for many other kinds of fig trees, this species relies on a particular species of wasp, Platyscapa desertorum, for pollination. The bark of the Namaqua Fig is used to tan and dye leather.

The immediate area around the Augrabies Falls is an excellent place to marvel at these rock-splitting trees growing into and even seemingly hanging onto the bare rock and cliff faces.

Namaqua Fig

Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra

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Equus zebra hartmannae

With stallions weighing around 300kg and standing 1.5m high at the shoulder, the Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra is slightly larger than its close relative, the Cape Mountain Zebra. They share a similar liking for arid, broken terrain, though Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra will also exploit sandy plains adjacent to their preferred rocky, hilly abodes. Mountain Zebras are almost exclusively grazers and require regular access to a reliable water source – Hartmann’s Zebras have been known to dig wells in dry riverbeds to access clean water.

Hartmann’s Mountain Zebras occur in small family groups consisting of a dominant stallion, up to 5 mares and their offspring of various ages that may roam over vast areas. Unattached adult males come together in bachelor groups until they can establish a group of their own. Hartmann’s Mountain Zebras are diurnal animals and will rest in the shade during the heat of the day. Foals may be born at anytime of year, though there is a peak in births during the wetter summer months.

Captive Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra

The Augrabies Falls National Park (where the herd below was photographed) is one of only two national parks in South Africa where a small population of the Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra can be seen – the other is the Richtersveld National Park. Small herds can also be found in a handful of provincially managed reserves and private farms in South Africa (the latter also outside the natural range of the Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra, posing a risk of crossbreeding with the Cape Mountain Zebra). The total population of the subspecies was estimated at around 25,000 (of which 8,300 mature animals) in 1998, with the majority of these occurring in neighbouring Namibia. The IUCN considers the Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra to be vulnerable, siting a probably declining population.

Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra

One of the protected areas outside the natural distribution of the Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra where it can be seen is the Rhino & Lion Nature Reserve in South Africa’s Gauteng Province.

Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra

Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra foal

Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra

Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra foal (photo by Joubert)

Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra (photo by Joubert)

Pale-winged Starling

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Onychognathus nabouroup

Pale-winged Starlings inhabit arid, rocky landscapes, especially those with a preponderance of cliffs and other similarly inaccessible areas. They follow an omnivorous diet of fruit, nectar, seeds, insects and small reptiles, and unlike most other species of starling generally avoids areas of human habitation. They’ve also been observed to remove ticks and other parasites from mountain zebras and klipspringers. Adults grow to about 27cm in length and weigh around 100g.

Nests are cups of sticks and dry grass placed on cracks and crevices on cliff sides, usually in small colonies consisting of a few pairs nesting in close proximity. Clutches of 2-5 eggs are laid in spring and summer and incubated by the female for around 3 weeks. Both parents feed the chicks, which leave the nest between 3 and 4 weeks after hatching.

Pale-winged Starlings occur in South Africa’s Eastern, Western and Northern Cape, extending marginally into the Free State and North West Provinces. They also occur widely in Namibia as well as in the extreme south of Angola, and thanks to a common and stable population is considered of least concern by the IUCN.

Pale-winged Starling

Pale-winged Starlings

Pale-winged Starling

Pale-winged Starlings in flight

Pale-winged Starlings

Pale-winged Starling

Quiver Tree

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Aloidendron dichotomum

(f.k.a. Aloe dichotoma)

The Quiver Tree is a kind of tree aloe growing in extremely arid, often rocky, areas with well-drained coarse sand as substrate. These hardy plants can live for 80 years or longer and grow to over 7m tall. Quiver Trees bear their bright yellow flowers in winter (June & July) and these are a favourite source of food for many nectar-eating birds and insects, and also baboons. Large Quiver Trees are a favoured site for the huge communal nests of the sociable weaver.

Quiver Trees occur only in Namibia and South Africa’s Northern Cape Province. Augrabies Falls National Park is one of the best locations in South Africa to see magnificent specimens of this unique plant in its natural habitat.

The San people hollowed out the branches of the Quiver Tree to make quivers in which to keep their hunting arrows, hence the name. The fibrous trunk was also hollowed out to use as a natural refrigerator for meat, vegetables and water.

Quiver Trees

Quiver Tree

Dusky Sunbird on a flowering Quiver Tree

Sunrise over the Augrabies landscape shows a lone Quiver Tree

Quiver Tree

Quiver Tree bark

Quiver Tree flowers

Quiver Tree

Quiver Tree in flower

Quiver Tree with Sociable Weaver Nest

Quiver Tree

Quiver Tree with Sociable Weaver Nest

Quiver Tree

Quiver Trees

Quiver Tree

Augrabies Falls National Park

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The Orange River, South Africa’s biggest and longest (running 2,200km from its source in Lesotho to its mouth at the Atlantic Ocean) is, for the most part, a lazy, slow-flowing waterway. That changes however when it is forced through a narrow granitic channel in the arid Northern Cape, plunges 56m over the impressive Augrabies Falls and continues through a dramatic gorge for another 18km before again returning to its more placid ways.

After years of political wrangling, a small 5,400 hectare area around the Falls was proclaimed the Augrabies Falls National Park in August 1966. Subsequently surrounding areas have been incorporated, and today the Park covers over 51,000 hectares.

Visitors can enjoy the best views of the Falls from several vantage points connected by easily negotiated boardwalks.

Consider that these photos taken during our visit in June 2018 saw the river flowing at a below average 38 cubic meters per second, and then imagine what it must look like when a flood of approximately 7,800 cumec, as happened in 1988, thunders down the Falls, to understand exactly why the Khoi named this place “Aukoerebis“, meaning “the place of great noise“!

Sunrise over Augrabies Falls

Augrabies Falls

Rainbow at Augrabies Falls

Augrabies Falls

Orange River above the Augrabies Falls

The Augrabies falls are illuminated for a few hours at night

Boardwalks allow easy access to the best viewpoints

Balancing rock above the boardwalk to the falls

Although the Falls is a worthy focal point of the National Park, there’s still lots more to see further afield when exploring this arid rocky desert landscape (the Park receives only about 120mm of rain annually). Places like Oranjekom, Ararat, Echo Corner and the Moon Rock are well worth the visit for spectacular views and fascinating geology. Quiver Trees and Namaqua Porkbush, both of which we’ll feature in more detail soon, are conspicuous plants and brilliantly adapted to life in this harsh environment. Rocky hills and arid plains where animals and birds abound add to the attraction.

Sunrise over the Augrabies landscape shows a lone Quiver Tree

Starry skies over Augrabies

Bloom of the Desert Broom bush

Beauty in a rugged landscape

Ararat viewpoint over the gorge of the Orange River

Echo Corner

Scaling the Moon Rock

View from atop the Moon Rock

Namaqua Fig

Large Namaqua Porkbush

Namaqua Porkbush leaves

Quiver Tree

Quiver Trees

Rocky hill with Shepherd’s Tree

Dry riverbed

Interesting rock formations

Dry riverbed

Augrabies Scenery

Interesting rock formations

Sociable Weaver Nest

Among the fauna finding protection in the Augrabies Falls National Park counts 49 species of mammal, 181 recorded bird species, around 50 species of reptile, 6 kinds of frog and 12 species of indigenous fish.

Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra

Augrabies Flat Lizard male

Orange River White-eye

Baby Dassie

Dassie (Rock Hyrax)

Dassie enjoying the view

Baboon surveying the landscape

Baboons frequent the camp in the mornings

Black-backed Jackal

Black-chested Prinia

Cape Robin-Chat at Augrabies Falls National Park (race C. c. namaquensis)

Common Waxbill

Dassie Rat, a unique kind of rodent

Dusky Sunbird on a flowering Quiver Tree

Gemsbok

Giraffe seem to thrive at Augrabies despite the harsh environment

Ground Squirrels run around the camp

Karoo Korhaan are excellently camouflaged in the arid landscape

Klipspringer

Long-billed Crombec

Namaqua Sandgrouse

Pale-winged Starling

Pririt Batis

Red-eyed Bulbul

Southern Masked Weaver getting its breeding plumage

Speckled Pigeon

Spike-heeled Lark

Springbok

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater

Western Rock Skink male

White-browed Sparrow-Weaver

White-throated Canary

Yellow Mongoose

Guests can be accommodated overnight in the rest camp’s chalets or the very neat camping area, all within easy walking distance from the Falls (illuminated until 10pm each evening). At the camp there’s four swimming pools (including one for day visitors), a shop, restaurant, fuel station and a little bird-watching hide. The Oranjekom Gorge Cottage is located about 10km from the main camp, and offers privacy and magnificent views over the ravine and river. Provision is also made for day visitors with picnic sites in the camp and along the game viewing loop. Visitors are welcome to explore the Park’s roads in their own vehicle (some roads are only accessible to 4×4 vehicles) or on mountain bikes, and there’s several hiking trails to choose from ranging in length from 2 to 33km (the latter being the Klipspringer Trail which includes two overnight stops). Guided drives (both day and night) in open vehicles can be booked at reception.

Af-en-Toe Picnic Site on the game-viewing circuit

Camping at Augrabies

Augrabies Chalets

One of three swimming pools for overnight visitors at the rest camp

Chalet 26 at Augrabies Falls National Park, June 2018

Oranjekom Gorge Cottage

The Augrabies Falls National Park is in one of the remotest corners of South Africa’s Northern Cape Province; roughly 930km from Pretoria and 870km from Cape Town. The nearest major airport with daily flights is at Upington, about 125km away. We enjoyed a wonderful two-night visit to Augrabies at the end of June 2018, during which all these photos were taken.

Location of Augrabies Falls National Park

Back from the Kalahari

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We’ve just arrived home after a little more than a week spent exploring two of South Africa’s most remote national parks – the Augrabies Falls National Park and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Here’s a little selection of the thousands of pictures we came back home with for you to enjoy while we work at answering all the comments you left for us on the scheduled posts that published during our absence. Of course there’ll be many more pictures from these two magnificent destinations in the weeks to come!