The June school holidays saw us conducting a tour of the Mokala National Park, one of South Africa’s lesser-known wildlife gems, located just south of Kimberley on the edge of the Karoo and Kalahari. Our base for the trip was Lilydale Camp with its wonderful setting above the Riet River. Covering 284km² of open plains transected by rugged low hills, Mokala this winter is a feast to behold with wide swathes of Wild Rosemary bushes in seed, giving the veld a snow-covered appearance (hence the Afrikaans name “Kapokbos” for the Wild Rosemary) under absolutely cloudless skies.
Lilydale Unit#1, Mokala National Park, June 2024
View over the Riet River from Lilydale
Wild Rosemary (aka Kapokbos) in seed dot the veld in Mokala
Wild Rosemary (aka Kapokbos) in seed dot the veld in Mokala
Gemsbok walking through Wild Rosemary (aka Kapokbos) in seed
Dead tree statue in Mokala
Gemsbok scaling a hill in Mokala
Roan Antelope
Sociable Weaver nest
Sociable Weaver nest
Springbok at sunset in Mokala (photo by Joubert)
Mokala sunset
Full Moon over Mokala
The enormous nests of Sociable Weavers are always a marvel, but this one looking like a human head spiked on an electricity pole was really creepy!
Remember that DeWetsWild can help you book a stay at Mokala National Park and I’d also be glad to escort you there on a guided tour!
While staying at Senyati Safari Camp we made use of their very convenient shuttle service to spend a day at the Victoria Falls, just 80km away in neighbouring Zimbabwe.
Known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya; “The Smoke That Thunders”, the Victoria Falls really is one of the most awe-inspiring sights on the planet and most worthy of its inclusion among Unesco’s World Heritage Sites. It was named in November 1855 by explorer David Livingstone in honour of Britain’s Queen Victoria. Here the Zambezi River drops over a cliff 1.7km (more than a mile!) wide into a ravine 108m deep, making it the largest sheet of falling water on earth. On average more than a million liters of water flows over the falls every second – the highest ever recorded was almost 13-million liters per second! The spray from the falls rise up to 800m high and can be seen from over 50km away on a clear day. Even with a raincoat or umbrella you are sure to get soaking wet! Don’t miss the chance to walk onto the bridge connecting the Zambian and Zimbabwean border posts for a view of the gorge below the waterfall.
Looking downriver over the Devil’s Cataract
Walking through the rainforest that surrounds the falls
Rainbows everywhere!
Devils Cataract
Looking down the gorge below the falls
Looking down the gorge below the falls
Devils Cataract
Devils Cataract
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls
Pathways wet from the misty rain
Pathways wet from the misty rain
Pathways wet from the misty rain
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls
Danger Point
Bridge connecting Zimbabwe and Zambia just below the falls
Precariously perched tree below the falls
Around the falls on the Zimbabwean side the rainforest and associated wildlife is protected in the Victoria Falls National Park, while on the Zambian side you’ll find the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.
Statue in honour of explorer David Livingstone
Vervet Monkey of the race C. p. ngamiensis photographed in the Victoria Falls National Park
Vervet Monkey of the race C. p. ngamiensis photographed in the Victoria Falls National Park
Wild Fig fruits
Grey-backed Camaroptera
Chobe Bushbuck ewe
Chobe Bushbuck ram
Southern African Tree Squirrel interacting with a Wahlberg’s Striped Skink
Wahlberg’s Striped Skink
Terrestrial Brownbul
Yellow Pansy Butterfly
If you’re planning to visit, the flow over the falls is usually at its most spectacular during April and at its lowest during November. You can fly directly to international airports at Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) or Livingstone (Zambia) and there are many accommodation establishments to choose from (and DeWetsWild will gladly help with your bookings!).
During our tour of Botswana in June we set off on an afternoon boat ride from the launch site in Kasane, following the Chobe River upstream into the Chobe National Park and later returning along the main channel – the border between Botswana and Namibia – around Sedudu Island by sunset. Game-viewing and photographic opportunities from the boat was excellent as we floated low to the water to almost within touching distance of Nile Crocodiles, Hippos, Buffaloes, Elephants and a wide array of other animals and birds which were all surprisingly unworried by our proximity. Certainly an experience to savour and never be forgotten!
The Chobe River at Kasane
Schalow’s Turaco
Guinea-fowl Butterfly
Spur-winged Goose
Big Red Lechwe ram
African Darter
Nile Crocodile
Nile Monitor
Nile Crocodile
Nile Crocodile
Pied Kingfisher
White-crowned Lapwing
Banded Mongooses
Banded Mongoose
Nile Crocodile
Pied Wagtail
Game-viewing by boat on the Chobe River
Cape Buffalo
Serenity on the Chobe River
African Darter
African Darter
African Fish Eagle
African Fish Eagle
African Fish Eagle
Cape Buffalo
Baboon of subspecies Papio ursinus griseipes
Baby Baboon of subspecies Papio ursinus griseipes
Baboon of subspecies Papio ursinus griseipes searching for seeds in elephant dung
Baby elephant
Elephant youngster
Hippos
Cape Buffalo
Cape Buffalo
Cape Buffalo
Cape Buffalo and cattle egret
African Spoonbills
Yellow-billed Storks
Red Lechwes
Great Egret
Black heron “canopy feeding” on shoals of small fish disturbed by the moving buffalo
Game-viewing by boat on the Chobe River
Resting hippos
Spur-winged Goose
Red Lechwes
Marabou Stork
Waterbuck family
Marabou Stork
Pink-backed Pelican
Pink-backed Pelican
Water Thick-knee
Goliath Heron
Namibian fisherman in a traditional mokoro
Red Lechwes
Red Lechwes
Large flock of Black-winged Pratincoles settling down on an island for the night
We made an early departure from Senyati in order to be at the entrance gate into Chobe National Park by the time it opened at 6am. One of the first animals we saw was a leopard stalking a herd of impala, a good indication as to the quality of the game-viewing we enjoyed for the morning we spent exploring the park.
Leopard seen early morning in the Sedudu Valley
Sunrise over the Chobe River
Lechwes on the bank of the Chobe River
Red-billed Spurfowl
White-crowned Lapwing
Buffalo feeding in the Chobe River
Buffalo feeding in the Chobe River
Meyer’s parrot
Baboon of subspecies Papio ursinus griseipes
Baboon of subspecies Papio ursinus griseipes
Puku
Puku
Red-billed Spurfowl
African Hawk-Eagle
Swamp Boubou
Tropical Boubou
Baboon of subspecies Papio ursinus griseipes
Baboon of subspecies Papio ursinus griseipes
Baboon of subspecies Papio ursinus griseipes
Impala
Bradfield’s Hornbill
Little Bee-eater
Neddicky
Warthog
Vervet Monkey of the race C. p. ngamiensis photographed in the Chobe National Park
Vervet Monkey of the race C. p. ngamiensis photographed in the Chobe National Park
Serene scene on the Chobe River
Serene scene on the Chobe River
Plains Zebras
Plains Zebra
Giraffe
Puku
Nile Crocodile
Great Egret
Elephants making their way to the Chobe River
Nile Crocodile
Hippo
Elephants on the banks of the Chobe River
Elephants making their way to the Chobe River
Elephants drinking from the Chobe River
Elephants drinking from the Chobe River
Squacco Heron
Kudu cows
Kudu cow
Impalas congregating next to the Chobe River
The highlight of the day was finding three lions strolling across the Puku Flats. At one point they flushed a roan antelope from a patch of long grass, but it made a safe retreat. Eventually the lions found a shady spot in which to rest and we moved along.
Lioness
Lioness
Young lion male
Lioness
Lioness
Roan Antelope
Young lion male
Lioness
Lioness
Young lion male
Young lion male
Lioness
Young lion male
We made it as far west as the Kabulabula Peninsula before we had to turn around and head for the gate again, as we had another exciting excursion booked for the afternoon. More about that in the next post!
Following our amazing Gospel on Safari experience, colleague and friend Hannes Rossouw and I extended our stay in Botswana a little by heading further north to explore the Chobe National Park and surrounds, basing ourselves at Senyati Safari Camp. Senyati is located in the Lesoma Valley, just 15km from Kasane, gateway into Chobe, and offers accommodation, camping, a restaurant and a fabulous sunken hide from which you can get some terrific images of the animals and birds that come to drink at the camp’s waterhole day and night.
Sable Antelope just outside Senyati’s camping area
White-backed Vulture soaring over Senyati
Blue Wildebees walking away from Senyati’s waterhole
Egyptian Goose at Senyati’s waterhole
Three-banded Plover at Senyati’s waterhole
Red-billed Spurfowl
Arrow-marked babbler
Giraffe making its way around Senyati
Giraffes making their way around Senyati
Cape Turtle Dove
Warthog approaching Senyati’s waterhole
Campsite #19 at Senyati Safari Camp
Senyati’s sunken hide
Elephants at the waterhole seen from the deck above Senyati’s restaurant
Elephant from Senyati’s underground hide
Elephants from Senyati’s underground hide
Chobe Dwarf Gecko
Bradfield’s Hornbill
Bradfield’s Hornbill
In upcoming posts I’ll share some more pictures taken on a drive through Chobe National Park, a boat ride on the Chobe River, and at Victoria Falls in neighbouring Zimbabwe.
I am fresh back from our Manyeleti Magic Photo-Safari & Workshop hosted in conjunction with Hannes Rossouw Photography out of Buffelshoek Tented Camp, and what a trip it was – without a question one of the best I have ever had, and with 40+ years of visiting South Africa’s wild places that takes some doing! Of course I will be telling you all about it in good time, but here’s a little taste of what you can look forward to.
Red-billed Oxpecker diving into a White Rhino’s ear
Spotted Hyena
Bateleur pair
Lilac-breasted Roller
Cheetah
Young male Lion
Magpie Shrike
One buffalo from a herd several hundred strong
Pearl-spotted Owlet
The head of a Southern African Rock Python encountered on our Manyeleti Magic Photographic Safari
Spotted Hyena
African Wild Dogs in playful mood before starting their hunt
A Buffalo standing on a dam wall gives an unusual perspective
White Rhino
Leopard
Hippo eyeing us from the waterhole
Cheetah
Lions after dark
One of the males from the Kambula Breakaway pride
Two of the Kambula Lions at Manyeleti
Buffalo taking a little longer to chew this prickly grasshead
Early in June I had the enormous privilege of spending 9 days at and around Elephant Sands Lodge, located near Nata in north-eastern Botswana, participating in Gospel on Safari where I and eleven other believers spent time with our Creator and His Word in the most amazingly unspoiled natural surroundings. Without a question it was one of the most impactful experiences of my life and I am immensely grateful for and humbled by all that was revealed to us, both physically and spiritually.
One of our nights was spent sleeping out in the open under the stars on the enormously empty expanse of Sua (sometimes spelt Sowa) Pan. The next day we explored more of the pan and its surroundings, making it as far as Kubu Island, a rocky outcrop covered by baobab trees and surrounded by a sea of salty emptiness.
Camping under the stars on Sua Pan
On the horizon lies our campsite on Sua Pan, surrounded by emptiness
A little island of stingy grass and a lone thorn tree on the enormous expanse of Sua Pan
Baobab on the way to Kubu Island
Kubu Island
Herd of Red Hartbeest on the edge of Sua Pan
One of the biggest highlights of the trip was an encounter with an enigmatic animal that I’ve longed to see my whole life. More about that soon!
We’ve just returned from another trip to the wonderful Mokala National Park, and as I am off again on our Manyeleti Magic Photo-Safari & Workshop today I am just leaving you this quintessential postcard taken at Mokala as a little appetiser of what is to come when I have the chance in coming weeks to tell you all about the trip.
While camping near Domtshetshu Pan in Botswana recently, as part of Gospel on Safari, I took a stroll towards a muddy part of the waterhole, where I found two Black Mambas – one of the deadliest species of snake on the planet – wallowing in the mud, drinking from little pools and being very coy with each other. The snakes paid me no notice at all, making me think that they probably have never seen a human before – what an amazing thought! Later, one of my fellow campers joined me at the sighting and still the snakes acted as if we weren’t even there.
Early in June I had the enormous privilege of spending 9 days at and around Elephant Sands Lodge, located near Nata in north-eastern Botswana, participating in Gospel on Safari where I and eleven other believers spent time with our Creator and His Word in the most amazingly unspoiled natural surroundings. Without a question it was one of the most impactful experiences of my life and I am immensely grateful for and humbled by all that was revealed to us, both physically and spiritually.
For three nights, with special permission granted by Botswana’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks, our group camped out in the wild at a waterhole called Domtshetshu Pan. The sense of freedom, space and wonderment was amazing!
The cutline leading to Domtshetshu
Camping at Domtshetshu Pan
Camping at Domtshetshu Pan
Foxy Emperor Butterfly
Elephant from ground level
lephant from ground level
Elephant Silhouettes
Elephant Silhouette
Domtshetshu Pan
Domtshetshu Pan mud cracks
Elephant bulls after enjoying a muddy portion of the waterhole
Elephant bull after enjoying a muddy portion of the waterhole
Elephant bulls in procession
Elephant bulls in procession
Elephant bulls in procession
Elephant bulls in procession
Elephant bulls in procession
Elephant bulls in procession
Elephant bull drinking
Joker Butterfly
African Migrant butterfly
Kudu cow and calf
Giraffes got a fright at my approach
Cape Turtle Doves gathering for a drink
Magpie Shrikes
Golden-breasted Bunting
Unidentified Pipit
Red-billed Spurfowl
White-browed Sparrow Weaver
Southern Pied Babbler
Camel Thorn
Camel Thorn
Domtshetshu Pan was the site of one of my most memorable wildlife encounters ever, and I will tell you more about it in the next installment!