The Manyeleti Nature Reserve is renowned for its large prides of Lions and so we had high hopes for excellent sightings before we arrived. We didn’t have to wait long into our first afternoon drive from Ndzhaka Camp for our first encounter with the “Kings of Beasts” as we happened upon a large pride walking with determination through the veld while our guide tried to manoeuvre the vehicle into position for the best pictures.
Lioness in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Lion family in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
A young male Lion in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
A big male Lion in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Young lion in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Young lion in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
A big male Lion in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
A big male Lion in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
A big male Lion in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
A young male Lion in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
As we drove out of Buffelshoek Camp our last morning at Manyeleti Nature Reserve dawned like a painting with a glorious orange sun backlighting large trees eerily peering through the mist that settled on the plains overnight.
Sunrise over Manyeleti
Years of visiting our wild places has given me a sixth sense that told me we won’t be waiting long for another audience with Manyeleti’s monarchy that morning, but our first sighting as we drove from camp was of two spotted hyenas lying lazily on the two-spoor track, as if just waiting for us to arrive.
Lazy Spotted Hyenas on the two-spoor track
Lazy young Spotted Hyena
And then, there they were! Two enormous Lionesses with their stomachs distended from a large meal enjoyed overnight. Eventually they got up and started moving in the direction of the nearby waterhole. We followed along for a few hundred metres, until they probably felt they needed another break and picked a termite mound as an elevated bed. One of the Queens flopped onto her side almost immediately, but the other was very interested in something happening between us and the camp, still visible in the distance.
Two very full Lionesses in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Two very full Lionesses in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Two very full Lionesses in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Two very full Lionesses in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
The Queen is not impressed! A Lioness in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Two lionesses on the move in the Manyeleti
Two lionesses on the move in the Manyeleti
Two lionesses on the move in the Manyeleti
Two lionesses on the move in the Manyeleti
Two lionesses settling on a termite mound in the Manyeleti
Being an extreme fan of African Elephants, when I made my first visit to Manyeleti Nature Reserve I was wondering how many elephants we would see there. Thankfully I can now confirm that the reserve has a thriving population of the pachyderms and they were very much in evidence as we went driving around the reserve.
This was the biggest herd we saw during our stay in the Manyeleti. In elephant society the breeding herds usually consists only of adults females and their offspring, with adult males only visiting the herd when there’s a cow in oestrus present.
Elephant family
Elephant calf
Elephant cow
Elephant cow
Elephant mother and calf
Elephant family crossing the road, with the matriarch taking a prominent protective roll
This young bull we found a bit later at a dam was definitely interested in some or other smell exuded by another elephant or elephants, using his trunk to test both the air and urine spots left on the ground.
Young Elephant bull testing for smells with his trunk
Young Elephant bull testing for smells with his trunk
Young Elephant bull testing for smells with his trunk
Young Elephant bull testing for smells with his trunk
One of our final sightings as we drove towards the gate on our way back home was of a small group of bachelor Elephant bulls hanging around at – and in – the large dam in the centre of the reserve.
Elephant bull at a large dam in Manyeleti
Elephant bull at a large dam in Manyeleti
Elephant bulls playing in a large dam in Manyeleti
Today is World Rhino Day. The ongoing war against rhino poaching still features in the headlines all over the world and unfortunately it is seldom good news. As the numbers continue to dwindle sightings of these enigmatic creatures in our wild places are getting ever more scarce. That’s probably the reason why this wonderful encounter we had with a White Rhino bull in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve when we visited earlier in September is so precious and memorable.
Surprisingly for a reserve located in one of South Africa’s tourism hotspots, the Lowveld, the Manyeleti Nature Reserve is an unexploited and unpolished gem of a destination. I’ve just recently returned from my first visit to this special place, accompanied by friend and colleague Hannes Rossouw.
The Manyeleti Nature Reserve was established in the 1960’s by the government of the Apartheid homeland Gazankulu, for exclusive use by non-white visitors. Covering an area of 227km² and sharing unfenced borders with the Kruger National Park and the Timbavati and Sabi Sand Private Game Reserves, administration of the reserve passed to the Mpumalanga Provincial Government following the end of Apartheid in 1994.
Sunrise over Manyeleti
Six Pod Mahogany trees, growing in two clusters of three each, and the only ones of their kind in the reserve, is a curious feature of Manyeleti.
Sunrise over Manyeleti
Manyeleti means “Place of stars” – looking up at the night sky will confirm this to be a very apt name – and is covered mainly by open savanna-type vegetation communities, with dense riverine forest along the course of the usually dry Nwaswitsontso River. Several large dams inside the reserve provide a year-round water supply and are focal points for the reserve’s wildlife and, consequently, human visitors.
A big male Lion in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Young lion in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Lioness with a very full belly
A very alert Lioness
Young leopard in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Young leopard in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Cheetah in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Cheetah after being chased up a tree by Wild Dogs in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Wild Dog in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Playful Wild Dog pups in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Giraffe
Elephant calf
White Rhino bull in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Hippos in a dam in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Hippo in a dam in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Hippo in a dam in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Waterbuck
Waterbuck calf
Blue Wildebeest
Nyala Bull
Young Nyala bull at Ndzhaka Camp in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Kudu cows being very curious about a troop of baboons
Steenbok ewe
Steenbok ewe
Red-billed Oxpeckers on a nyala bull
Arrow-marked Babbler
Black Flycatcher
Black-backed Puffback
African Hoopoe
Young Saddle-billed Storks
Grey Heron
Brown Snake Eagle
Lilac-breasted Roller
During our recent visit to the reserve, Hannes and I were hosted for one night at each of Ndzhaka and Buffelshoek Camps, and I am proud to say that DeWetsWild is now a contracted reservation agent for both. In co-operation with Hannes Rossouw Photography we will also be holding regular photographic safaris and workshops there – we’re already taking bookings for the first of these scheduled for June 2024. The camps are rustic and off the grid, and with each accommodating no more than 10 guests in 5 comfortable en-suite safari-style tents, with all meals and two daily game drives included, are perfect for an authentic bush experience. Ndzhaka is set among the enormous trees on the banks of the Nwaswitsontso almost in the centre of Manyeleti, its grounds frequented by nyala, bushbuck and waterbuck. Buffelshoek on the other hand is located on a remote open plain towards the reserve’s south-eastern corner, with herds of game and predators moving around and sometimes even through the camp to reach the local waterhole.
Ndzhaka Camp, Manyeleti Nature Reserve, September 2023
Ndzhaka Camp, Manyeleti Nature Reserve, September 2023
Ndzhaka Camp, Manyeleti Nature Reserve, September 2023
Ndzhaka Camp, Manyeleti Nature Reserve, September 2023
Ndzhaka Camp, Manyeleti Nature Reserve, September 2023
Buffelshoek Camp, Manyeleti Nature Reserve, September 2023
Buffelshoek Camp, Manyeleti Nature Reserve, September 2023
Buffelshoek Camp, Manyeleti Nature Reserve, September 2023
Buffelshoek Camp, Manyeleti Nature Reserve, September 2023
A morning coffee stop in the bush at Manyeleti, compliments of Buffelshoek Camp
On the perimeter of Ndzhaka Camp a small trough of water is like a magnet to visiting antelope. I set up my little trailcam there to see what might come visiting while we’re out on our game drive or asleep in the tent.
In upcoming posts on DeWetsWild I will be sharing some of the incredible sightings we enjoyed during our visits to Ndzhaka and Buffelshoek in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve.
Colleague and friend Hannes and I might only have had two days in the Kruger National Park before we moved on to the Manyeleti Nature Reserve (of which I will start telling you in the next installment) recently, but we still had some terrific sightings around Mopani Rest Camp – even more than we could’ve expected, and we had some pretty high hopes!
The charm of the Kruger Park really lies in the amazing diversity of habitats, plants and wildlife that finds sanctuary there.
Hill covered by Bushveld Candelabra Euphorbias next to the Tsendze River
A closer look at the Bushveld Candelabra Euphorbias growing on a hill near Shipandani Hide
African Civet
Blue Wildebeest at Mooiplaas
Black-backed Jackal looking for a little shade at Tihongonyeni
Steenbok ram in close-up portrait
Black-backed Jackal and Blue Wildebeest at Mooiplaas
Plains Zebra
Giraffe
Waterbuck
Klipspringer
Sharpe Grysbok near Mopani
No matter the weather or the time of year, the Kruger National Park is always a slice of heaven for bird-watchers!
African Scops Owl
Chinspot Batis in Mopani
Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark
Wahlberg’s Eagle
Kittlitz’s Plover
Grey-backed Sparrowlark
African Hawk-Eagles
Cardinal Woodpecker
African Green Pigeon
Black-backed Puffback
Black-headed Oriole
Southern Ground Hornbill
Seeing a Ground Hornbill trying to snatch something from between some mopane branches was a very entertaining sighting!
Buffaloes roam the north of the Kruger National Park in enormous herds, but there are also many old bulls that have broken away from the breeding groups and can be quite disagreeable!
Buffalo Calf
Buffalo Bull
Buffalo Bull
Buffalo Cow
Buffalo Cow
You know that I can never get enough of Elephants, and in the north of the Kruger Park there’s ample opportunity to enjoy these magnificent creatures, so I still have a few more photo’s and a video to share!
Elephant feeding on mopane leaves near Tihongonyeni
The very noticeable “grass notch” shows that this elephant is left-handed!
These feet were made for walking
Elephant bulls walking away from Tihongonyeni Waterhole
Of course the large predators also get us very excited, even for people who visit the Park fairly regularly like we do. We’ll be remembering our two leopard sightings – one while we had just driven into the Park, and the other the following day – every time we pass those spots in future!
Leopard up a tree near Phalaborwa Gate
Leopard in a tree on the bank of the Tsendze River south of Mopani
September is generally regarded as the start of the spring season in South Africa, but with the rainy season still weeks away and temperatures starting to climb higher as the days grow longer, it is a very dry period of the year in most of the northern parts of the country. In our wild places, like the Kruger National Park, animals are seen congregating at or near the few remaining sources of water. The Mopani area of the Park is well served by several reliable waterholes and here visitors to the Park can expect interesting sightings of birds and animals taking turns at the water’s edge.
A Steenbok drinking from a puddle in the Ngobeni streambed
Elephants on the banks of the Letaba River
Mopani is situated on a hill overlooking the large Pioneer Dam, making this the most prominent of the area’s water sources. Visitors can get close to the water along the trail through the camp or at the Pioneer Hide.
White-faced Whistling Ducks
Black-winged Stilts
Goliath Heron
African Jacana
Yellow-billed Stork
Black Crake
Lazy Hippos
Juvenile Black Crake
White-faced Whistling Ducks
Squacco Heron at Pioneer Dam
Wood Sandpiper
Big Nile Crocodiles makes Pioneer Dam a dangerous place
Immature African Fish Eagle
Marico Sunbird
Another large body of water in this section of the Kruger Park is Grootvlei Dam, more distantly located from Mopani along the S50 gravel road to Shingwedzi.
Elephant bull drinking from Grootvlei Dam
Plains zebras drinking from Grootvlei Dam
African Fish Eagle at Grootvlei Dam
Black-winged Stilt
Flock of Cut-throat Finches at Grootvlei Dam
Enormous Nile Crocodile at Grootvlei Dam
Grootvlei Dam harbours many Nile Crocodiles
Watch this short video of a big Elephant bull drinking from Grootvlei Dam on a hot September morning:
On the way to Grootvlei visitors can make a detour first to the Mooiplaas waterhole, where a drinking trough is fed by a windpump and reservoir, and then along the Nshawu Marsh where several springs provide water even in drought years. Both these places are also well frequented by large predators waiting for thirsty herbivores to ambush.
Elephants at Mooiplaas Waterhole
Elephant at Mooiplaas Waterhole
Elephant herd walking away from Mooiplaas Waterhole
A lion in the light of early morning, searching the Nshawu Marsh for easy pickings
Elephants, plains zebras and a giraffe around one of the springs in the Nshawu Marsh
Because Mooiplaas (meaning “pretty farm”) is so close to Mopani, we love whiling away the last few minutes before the gates close there, and that’s exactly what we did when this herd of Elephants were having their sundowners.
South Africa’s Kruger National Park is renowned for wonderful encounters with African Elephants, and our quick visit last week proved no exception. We were based in the Mopani region of the Park, where mopane shrubs and trees dominate the plains and elephants congregate in their numbers near permanent water sources, like the Tihongonyeni waterhole. It was on our way to Tihongonyeni late one morning that these two bulls decided to make use of a flimsy shadow cast over the road by a big tree to rest their tired legs. Every time we ventured closer to try and sneak past on the verge of the road, the bull nearer to us would give a warning step or two in our direction, trunk outstretched, and so I’d back up again. Eventually we waited half-an-hour before the two eventually allowed us, with a shake of the head and a toss of the trunk as if they’d grown tired of our meekness and just wanted to be rid of us, to pass them.
Impressive tusker near Tihongonyeni
African Elephant bull near Tihongonyeni waterhole in Kruger
African Elephant bulls near Tihongonyeni waterhole in Kruger
African Elephant bulls near Tihongonyeni waterhole in Kruger
Here’s a short video of an encounter we’ll remember fondly when passing that way again in future.
I have just returned from a visit to the Lowveld and in particular the Kruger National Park and Manyeleti Game Reserve with Hannes Rossouw Photography. The following photographs are just a little appetiser of what you can look forward to in the next few posts on DeWetsWild.
Leopard up a tree near Phalaborwa Gate
Sharpe Grysbok near Mopani
Elephant at Mooiplaas Waterhole
Elephant herd walking away from Mooiplaas Waterhole
Plains zebras drinking from Grootvlei Dam
Elephant bull drinking from Grootvlei Dam
Impressive tusker near Tihongonyeni
Elephant feeding on mopane leaves near Tihongonyeni
Squacco Heron at Pioneer Dam
African Scops Owl
Buffalo Calf
Buffalo Bull
Leopard in a tree on the bank of the Tsendze River south of Mopani
African Civet
Blue Wildebeest at Mooiplaas
Young Nyala bull at Ndzhaka Camp in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Young leopard in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Young leopard in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Young lion in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
A big male Lion in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Playful Wild Dog pups in Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Wild Dog in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Cheetah after being chased up a tree by Wild Dogs in the Manyeleti Nature Reserve
Grey-backed Cisticolas form monogamous, territorial pairs and breed from mid-winter to summer. They build ball-shaped nests with a side-entrance, usually placed low in a shrub and often incorporating parts of it in the construction. Clutches of 2-5 eggs are incubated for about two weeks, with the chicks leaving the nest a similar length of time after hatching. Fully grown they weigh about 11g and measure around 12cm in length.
A rather nondescript bird, perfectly camouflaged to blend in with the barren substrates they favour, the Large-billed Lark is a bird of the fynbos and Karoo biomes. They forage on the open ground, feeding on seeds and insects, and are particularly fond of ploughed fields and overgrazed pastures. They’re usually seen in pairs.
Large-billed Larks are territorial and form monogamous pairs that breed from mid-winter to mid-summer, building cup-shaped nests at the base of a grass tuft or low shrub in which both partners incubate clutches of 2-4 eggs for a little over 2 weeks. While the chicks are in the nest the parents are fearless about protecting them against predators and humans alike. Fully grown they weigh around 48g and measure about 18cm in length.
DeWetsWild 